Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2007 17:20:37 GMT 1
here are the remains of the stolen recovered 80/125 lc. when it was returned i did some base work like re paint wheels and start a (shit what was i on) paint job. this is how it all is now: note the yellow tank sourced from a very nice breaker in Scotland £15 (29.34inc p+p) thank you very much. the fairing is a very old "mean-speed" job that needs a screen (where would you get one now?). first job is to strip it all down and start a bloody good clean up and repaint/chrome parts as needed (funds permitting). its going to take time but I'll get there in the end, thanks so far for the promised parts you know who you are they're going to a good cause.
|
|
|
Post by pablo on Apr 8, 2007 21:51:13 GMT 1
i think its MEAD SPEED (the fairing)and i think they are still going.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2007 11:23:41 GMT 1
i think its MEAD SPEED (the fairing)and i think they are still going. your right i have emailed them to see if its one of there's and to see if i can get a screen, thanks pablo, 1st new part a new ignition switch(lots to go).
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2007 21:14:25 GMT 1
managed to get home mid day today so started to strip bike, upon checking the frame i found this crack, got a mate who welds so good but cheap repair to come along with so extensive bracing around the engine mounts swing arm mount and head stock, also modded the frame mounts as to move the engine over to the left more as to line up the sprockets a bit better (they were at least 3cm out how it went i don't know) modded the mount on the engine by cutting off about 2cm of ally and yes it made a hole but in true build it your self fashion i expected that so i had some liquid metal to repair said hole and good as new and hopefully the sprockets now line up better, heres the box of bits that came off going to go through one by one and clean and polish/paint each bit, rewrap the wiring loom, replace any connectors if needed etc. WHAT ENGINE PAINT DOES ANYONE RECOMMEND THESE DAYS(BLACK) slowly getting there its long hard work but fun just to find out what i did back when i was 17 and improve on it or completely change it cause it was crap/dangerous. thanks for the interest jamie
|
|
|
Post by mellow on Apr 17, 2007 21:27:52 GMT 1
PJ1 Satin black m8
|
|
|
Post by scott on Apr 17, 2007 21:54:34 GMT 1
PJ1 Satin black m8 gets my vote aswell
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2007 12:42:54 GMT 1
new parts are slowly arriving; just got handle bar clamps (thank you chris)
sourcing dt engine parts now: wood ruff key, nut + washer for flywheel/generator clutch actuation lever shims for oil pump kick start lever and locking nut
still require a oil pump engine cover for the dt engine mk2/3 YEIS chamber and connecting pipe
FOUND THE ABOVE PARTS JUST NEED: TEMP SENDER POWER VALVE COVER PLUS ADJUSTING SCREWS.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2007 21:38:32 GMT 1
QUESTION: are all of the power valve linkages attached to a Yamaha barrel the same? i mean the bit that the wires from the p/v motor join to the valve itself, that is if you took the cover off a 350ypvs would it go onto a 125lc (import)? the reason i am asking its that i require the said cover and the two adjustment screws that go with it. thanx jamie.
|
|
zebrd
Thrash Merchant
Time for Bed!!
Posts: 346
|
Post by zebrd on Apr 24, 2007 22:22:40 GMT 1
PJ1 Satin black m8 gets my vote aswell And Mine!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2007 18:52:26 GMT 1
the frame is now completely stripped and on its way to the welders for bracing and fixing of the crack. i have been rubbing down the panels as there is not much to do until i get the frame back. rewrapped the wiring loom, degreased the sprockets and chain guard. ordered new fork seals, taper roller head races, clutch cable, brake pads. parts so far from new and various people (thank you very much) ignition switch handle bar clamps parts promised (cheques in the post) clutch actuation lever woodruff key + nut kick start yeis chamber + pipe "t" shaped coolent pipe shims for oil pump
bead blasting and powder coat (blue again) around £50-£60 good i think.
cant find a supplier for the pj1 satin paint any ideas please?
|
|
|
Post by scott on Apr 30, 2007 21:28:15 GMT 1
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 1, 2007 22:05:20 GMT 1
thinking of doing the Yamaha speed blocks but in blue on a white back ground?!? what do u think?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 10, 2007 22:08:04 GMT 1
just got the frame back from the welder mate, bloody marvelous done excellent work to sure up the frame and add extra bracing around the engine mounts, and finish off yamaha's welding around the head stock.(pictures later its going off to be bead blasted and powder coated blue again).
more new parts: taper roller head races (m+p) fork seals (m+p) clutch cable (m+p) brake pads (m+p)
parts sourced(thank you everyone concerned): yeis chamber and pipe oil pump cover "t" shaped coolant pipe neutral light sensor
still require:(after much dismantling and examination) some sort of side stand! brake arm pulling rod dust seals cush drive rubbers, sprocket housing bearing shims and washer for the oil pump.
getting there.............................................
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 12, 2007 20:05:13 GMT 1
fooking knackered, polishing is a lonely job but the end results are marvelous: horn, both sides of p/v, petrol cap, ends of mounting bolts, (painted thermostat cover), (yes norbo i received that today and it took 2 hrs to get it like that) as promised the pic's of the welded frame, note the cracks gone and beefing up of the engine mounts, got to find time to get to the powder coaters (they close at 4.30) getting there......................................... just thought i'd show you my tzr as its my log on name!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 15, 2007 21:08:15 GMT 1
with all this polishing going on it seems a shame to cover it up with a full fairing (does it???) trouble is i do not have the canopy fairing or the belly pan? any one got a top fairing and belly pan? 80 or 125 will do! i could cut the full one with strategic holes and mesh them or perplex them? what do you lot think?
|
|
|
Post by pablo on May 16, 2007 15:03:35 GMT 1
Nekkid...seems a shame to chop the fairing up
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 16, 2007 18:23:18 GMT 1
WHAT A FOOKING RESULT! OH YES WERE IN THE MONEY NOW. found this bloke who does genuine parts cheap getting some parts of him for the 80 and 125 SORTED! ( all people who help me will be listed at the end of the project) but he also sent me a dt125lc mk3 fiche bloody marvelous, in short it has the WORKING p/v parts and there numbers and get this found a grey importer that can get almost any part direct from japan yyyyyyyeeeeeeeessssssssss. thanks for the p/v cover norb but i now am getting the proper part for my half of the cover, that means i have a very nicly polished p/v cover up for sale £15.00 inc p+p things are looking up in the world. mellow dear boy might be able to help you with you p/v problem pm me ok.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 19, 2007 21:27:44 GMT 1
hello time for an update, the frame has gone to the powder coaters for bead blasting and coating (blue again), back in 2 weeks ish. after much degreasing and cleaning (along with trepidation, bottle and sheer will power) i finally took off the engine cover............ well what a surprise after 18 years of non use just sitting there in my mums garage hardly any rust at all: just a few specs nothing to worry about. more to the point everything moves freely not a snag or grinding anywhere. the clutch is a perfect 3mm i remember putting in a new "Sampson" plate set when i got the engine. however the clutch springs have lost there springyness and need to be replaced: other work has been hard polishing even more items like all the nut heads(?) and anything that will shine. painted the cylinder head: the body work ie; the side panels back end have been rubbed down and wet + dry-ed ready for primer: the cover for the back end needed fillering and fibre glassing: the only trouble is that the lock is bust and you cannot get a new one might have to work miracles on it to get it to lock, then open again. next is to paint the engine cover, take off the cylinder and paint that too. you will note from my last (somewhat over excited) entry that i have sourced parts (for the engine) direct from japan via a grey importer. this means that i will have the correct p/v covers and necessary bits to make it work correctly.........result. got carbon hytech reeds coming unless you know where i can get harpowa ones from (v force are nice but i haven't won the lottery yet!) thanks for looking (and taking the piss i can see it coming)
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 24, 2007 19:01:23 GMT 1
simply could not wait any longer had to put the head together (loosely) to see what is was going to look like, along with the engine cover; bloody smart if you ask me (polishing has paid off don't you think). the lines on the p/v cover (left side) have blue low lights to match the paint scheme (eventually). the correct cover is on order along with the adjusting screws for the p/v. the reeds are going to be hytech carbon ones (when i get round to ordering them along with a complete gasket set). the frame should be ready soon, as soon as i get it photo's of course. got new taper roller bearing to replace the crap ball bearings that fell out (ha ha). next project is the front forks!!! they are shagged out. the lower stanchions are OK bit faded as i polished them before (not a problem). however the upper tubes are peeling and need re-chroming. new springs (if i can get them, or real heavy fork oil 20w or higher) got new seals and dust seals on the way. got loads of small parts to chrome so cant put back together yet as one of them is the swing arm. cant get a c**kpit fairing or belly pan as no longer a valid Yamaha part keep looking on eBay and rdrz forum hopefully one might/will turn up. getting there faster that i predicted, but the best part is i am actually enjoying doing it. hope you all like more to come................................thanks jamie ;D
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 28, 2007 16:17:38 GMT 1
right some more polished stuff: they have turned out really nice, just got to get some clear sealer to protect them now. new seals fitted: bastid getting the old ones out took over a hour to get them out and new ones in. high lighted the "Yamaha" on engine cover: on further inspection found out the oil pump gear is missing but thanks to norbo got one coming . selection of new parts and polished stuff: you can just see the s+B/k+N (can't remember which) connected to an extension tube. after reading old copies of Pb and the like, you could once get hold of an ledar kit for lc's. these included new jets, air correction jet, emulsion tube/nozzle, air filter (s+B or k+N or ram-air) and an extension tube for the filter. this helped the mid-range to top end of the bike in that with out said tube detonation could occur (weakened mixture). they were manly used with after market pipes (micron/allspeed/Nikon etc) i have put on one just as a precaution. CAN U STILL GET HOLD OF THESE KITS?? waiting on frame and parts now to start putting back together, never thought I'd get this far............thanks Jamie.
|
|
|
Post by mellow on May 28, 2007 21:05:24 GMT 1
im sure sum 1 sells the ledar kits on evil bay re ur forks.......they will dull a bit when u laquer them if thats wot ur gonna do..................then the laquer will flake off lookin pants
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 28, 2007 22:09:26 GMT 1
re ur forks.......they will dull a bit when u laquer them if thats wot ur gonna do..................then the laquer will flake off lookin pants.
its not a laquer as you would know it, its more of a plastic coating that you either paint or spray on. it keeps whatever you have underneath the coating exactly as it was/is before you cover it......so polished stuff stays bright never dulls or fades etc.
|
|
|
Post by mellow on May 29, 2007 20:35:37 GMT 1
yeah ok
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 29, 2007 20:53:33 GMT 1
you don't sound convinced, (combination of words/pics and that bloody avatar) just not right.
|
|
|
Post by mellow on May 29, 2007 21:09:02 GMT 1
wots this product ur gonna use then m8?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 29, 2007 22:33:34 GMT 1
oh do i have to give my secrets away.................OK then its called "plasti dip" (Google it) its a clear (or coloured) spray that you spray (huh!) on an it simply protects everything you could cover virtually anything with it. thinking of doing the wheels with it instead of powder coating them. look its bloody good and it works ok............lol ;D ;D
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 30, 2007 18:15:49 GMT 1
if i could cart wheel i would....... ;D ;D just been in contact with a breaker (name later cause i got first dabs) who has ALL the parts that i cannot get hold off for the 80 lc; fuel tank flap, brake pulling arm, etc etc etc. he also has shed loads of other 80 lc parts , sent me photos of the stuff. i am sending him the 80lc fiche and 125 lc fiche (mk1,2,3) so he can identify what he has. then i will take my share then advertise him on this forum (as well as others) he has 125 lc stuff too. he's a great bloke and thinks that some of the evil bay stuff is well over priced. as soon as i sort out what i need and how much i will give out this contact and open him up to the rd world..... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
(if there is anything that people want prior to advertising then let me know I'll get it for you first, if he has it. not to put a sore point on this people who have generously helped me so far will get priority, you know who you are.)
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 7, 2007 17:01:07 GMT 1
right got the spares i needed from my breaker (info for him on Saturday) most of these are discontinued by Yamaha so hard to get, here are just a few, side stand rear brake torque arm (even though a mate is making me one) tank flap (should have been on the tank when i bought it) new sprocket carrier etc etc
phoned b+c express and getting a 428 chain and sprockets to fit the 80lc carrier WITHOUT modification this time (old one cracked due to filing down to get rear sprocket to fit)
still waiting for the frame to be done.........2 weeks now well it should be soon.
box of parts to chrome now i have the others bits to add.
more polishing to come, rear brake drum holder, few little odds and sod's
when frame arrives can START to put it back together....... ;D ;D ;D ;D hooray
PS SKIDMARX do copy's of rd80 and 125lc fairings in fibreglass around £35 notes but no screens, or mounting bolts/brackets. pretty good as there a re like rocking horse pooh.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2007 17:17:35 GMT 1
right the tech/nerdy bit: chain and sprocket set up, might be easy if you have a standard bike but this is a true hybrid so it is difficult. first off the chain for the 80lc was a 420, the dt125 however is a 428. simple to fix you may think but in my first attempt i found that the rear sprocket would not fit on the cush drive hub it was a fraction to small,(64mm=80 62mm=125). so i filed down the mount on the 80 drive to accept the dt sprocket. this has weakened the drive to the point that one of the bolt holes has cracked away leaving a potential disaster. got a new cush drive hub. to solve the problem i contacted b+c express (Pb use them now i do) for info to see if i could get a 428 to fit my drive. well of course you can (to young to think of this first time round), now what ratio do i use? the rd and dt engines are basically the same, casing barrel etc. however the gear ratios are completely different as you would expect, rd=road dt= dirt track: rd125lc dt125lc 1st 2.833:1 (34/12t) 3.500:1 (35/10t) 2nd 1.812:1 (29/16t) 2.214:1 (31/14t) 3rd 1.368:1 (26/19t) 1.555:1 (28/18t) 4th 1.142:1 (24/21t) 1.190:1 (25/21t) 5th 1.000:1 (23/23T) 1.000:1 (23/23t) 6th 0.916:1 (22/24t) 0.084:1 (21/25t) final drive; rd 2.812:1 (45/16t) dt 3.227:1 (53/16t) (difference of 0.415) you can see from this info that the dt is accelerating faster in each gear than the rd until 6th when the rd has a better top end ratio to pull its lower final drive gearing (the higher the number the better drive). (with me so far ;D) right as i have the engine in a road bike i don't want frenzied gear changes (like i did have at first (49/15 3.266) was on the bike) so a little bit of maths and i have ended with 39/14 (2.785) a difference of 0.481 which is slightly higher than the original so i will have the best of both worlds fast acceleration (due to the dt gear box) and a high top end (due to the final drive ratio). incidentally the reason for having the smallest front sprocket was that the chain was rubbing the gear shaft leaving two "drag/wear" marks on the shaft (due to the way the engine fits in it is leaning slightly more forward that in the dt frame). now (hopefully) the chain will not rub. finally i also got a heavy duty "o" ring chain for better life span than a ordinary heavy duty one. right that done you may sleep now (not just a pretty face you know been thinking this through! )
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2007 21:52:54 GMT 1
BREAKING POINT LTD, 10 CABELS LANE, TORRY, ABERDEEN, AB11 9AD www.breakingpoint.co.ukTELE 01224 899228 fax 01224 249606 these are the very good breakers i have got my missing parts from, check them out they are traditional breakers they don't chuck anything away, very very helpful people lots and lots of old stuff (check there site for photos) thank you Dek and George.
|
|