mk1 back road special

[racerd]

[racerd]

the crank cases took me about 70/80 hours to flat and polish also done the crank case mouth mod
to line up with my ypvs barrel on the inlet side then got to re profile scavengers entrances

[racerd]

still go to re polish clutch cover

[scott]

:owow m8,that is some seriously good polishing

[Norbo]

I cant believe that casing is polished . the side covers yes but bloooooooooooody hell that lump is just mint .
Come on be honest its a chromex powder coat isn't it

[racerd]

the right hand crank case is flatted ready for polishing with solvol
used a whole tube of solvol on clutch cover and the crank cases






















that's why i had to mask up the fly wheel and clutch
basket and primary gears and crank case mouth where
con rod is so no water got into the parts

[racerd]

yes the left hand crank case is a 1gm been busy doing
my barrel, the inlet side was started off with a file then
in 40 grit still got to finish it off but got to start the scavenger entrances, then flat and polish the rims and the edges
of the spokes on my wheels then the levers then clean frame
good 2/3 hours cleaning and waxing and wax oiling the
inside white frame shows the dirt not mud

[racerd]

this is the inlet side of barrel started with a file

[racerd]

couple showing end can







the original end can was a mechanical baffle type so
swapped that end can for this long end can one it came
from a scooter lambretter on the end can it has stamped
on it made by clf for msc
couple of photo's of the original codnor micron

[racerd]

masking up combustion chamber in cylinder head ready for flat and polishing

[Norbo]

Looks like a good bit of tuning on the barrel mate . Be interested to see what it will do flat out .

[racerd]

the speedo gave a reading of 115 mph in 6th at 11,000 rpm

[racerd]

this is the carb off my lc the first 2 photo's shows my tapered ported carb





photo's below shows the carb before it was tapered ported

[racerd]

[mellow]

fook!!! that engine is the mutts nuts!!

[vin]

Wow! I agree with meller's you must have the patience of a saint

[racerd]

finished porting the barrel just doing scavenger entrances
and still a little bit to do to the crank cases line up the
inlet port then still got to flat the reed block on the inside,
already taper ported the front of the carb to 38/9mm
from 32mm might even go 0.75mm on the squish, then the
next step is to get the motor to pull 17 gear box sprocket
45 rear sprocket gearing

[doy]

:oCan't imagine the work you've put into that mate

[racerd]

a couple of before and after photo's



to prep the wheels it took me 3 hours to get them ready
for etch primer then when masking them up this took 3
hours per wheel and to etch prime them 3 hours per wheel
and the same time to prime them and the same time per
wheel to flat the primer, the etch primer and primer i used
air craft paint from Stevenage british aero space and when spraying on top colour 3 hours per wheel the hard part was
getting the paint into the corners where the spokes join
the rims,
and not getting runs in the paint to un mask the wheels
took 2 to hours for both wheels had to be careful when
unmasking the wheels that i didn't pull the paint off this was because the paint was still a little bit soft could not have
un masked the wheels when the paint was dry and to flat
and polish the edge of the rims and the edges of the spokes
took me 20/30 hours per wheel when i polish them now
still takes 3 hours per wheel then 1 hour per tyre to tyre
pen the lettering on the tryes,
,

mono shock



when i got the mono shock there were no bushes in the
top and bottom of the mono shock got genuine parts and
pressed them in my self then stripped the mono shock
down took the spring off and prepped it ready for etch
primer and primer,
this took about 10 hours then a couple of hours to flat
the primer ready for colour the hard part was spraying the
spring in getting even coverage on the inside of the spring
with out getting runs use air craft etch primer and primer
then the fun part was fitting up the spring i tried to compress
the spring by hand no go then a lad from the garage next
door pushed down the spring by hand so i could put the collets back in and he also adjusted the pre load by hand