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Post by jon on Sept 6, 2018 7:45:49 GMT 1
Veg, I’m not quite sure why you say you can’t fit a rear stoplight switch?
Can’t see any reason a hydraulic switch couldn’t be easily fitted?
Jon
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Post by veg on Sept 6, 2018 9:22:07 GMT 1
Hi Jon, The only ones I can find John interferes with the swing arm the ypvs rear master cylinder inlet is pretty much level with the top arm of the metmachex consequently there will be interference from the switch and the arm. I have looked for a smaller hydraulic switch and can’t find one. If you know of any smaller ones happy to fit it buddy.
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Post by veg on Sept 6, 2018 9:24:16 GMT 1
Dusty lock wiring would in my opinion really suit your Tz build, Alex I will do when it is complete I don’t want to tempt fate before it has been to daves for setting up 👍
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 6, 2018 10:26:30 GMT 1
Hi mate Will the pressure switch work if it was used at the caliper end ?
Dusty
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Post by veg on Sept 6, 2018 11:37:40 GMT 1
Like the thinking I hadn’t thought of that. The only concern I have is that it may look out of place. I will have a look see. Thanks dusty
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Post by veg on Sept 6, 2018 16:10:09 GMT 1
Ok so I am looking at fitting the nozzles to my Tz rubbers however if you look at the depth of the rubber and compare it to the depth of the nozzle will this not leave the nozzles not close to being in the air intake/flow I did consider fitting to the 34mm carbs but they have no where to mount the nozzles
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Post by panzermatt on Sept 6, 2018 17:52:44 GMT 1
someone knows how to lockwire properly. lovely job.
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Post by veg on Sept 6, 2018 17:59:38 GMT 1
Thanks Matt it was my first attempt I just watched a you tube clip and followed it.
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Post by jon on Sept 6, 2018 18:34:58 GMT 1
Like the thinking I hadn’t thought of that. The only concern I have is that it may look out of place. I will have a look see. Thanks dusty Veg this is what I was suggesting. You could also mount it hidden out the way and run two rear hoses joined hidden away and the pressure switch on the join. Jon
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Post by veg on Sept 6, 2018 18:39:50 GMT 1
Thanks Jon I haven't been able to find a smaller one anywhere. I cannot remember if you need a rear brake light switch as well as a front. I may just get a day time MOT
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Post by jon on Sept 6, 2018 18:49:35 GMT 1
Veg, although I don’t think a stoplight is mandatory for an MOT, I think it will be contentious if it is fitted and only operated by the front brake. Maybe someone knows better. I do know if something is fitted it must work properly, so would have thought with individual ways of operating it; both should work.
Irrespective of need, I’d still fit a stoplight switch.
There are hand signals for turning left/right/stopping if the vehicle is not fitted with indicator lights. If you don’t use this for stopping I’d say insurance may get funny in an accident. Moreover I’d rather avoid a rear end shunt on a bike irrespective of the law.
All that said you stop a bike with the front brake, and possibly a little rear so it should come on anyway.
Jon
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Post by stusco on Sept 6, 2018 18:58:35 GMT 1
Back in the day if I remember correct my mates gp100 only had a brake switch on the back brake (drum front and back) so must be legal
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Post by oldelsieboy on Sept 6, 2018 19:00:14 GMT 1
I cannot remember if you need a rear brake light switch as well as a front. Copied from the Motorcycle MOT Test Manual. Machines first used before 1 April 1986 must have a stop lamp that operates from at least one brake control. OEB
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Post by veg on Sept 6, 2018 19:06:47 GMT 1
I would always have a stop light even had one on my semi legal drz 400e oeb has clarified it for me so I have one fitted to the front that will do me. Cheers chaps
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 6, 2018 19:23:25 GMT 1
Result That info is gonna be useful to a good few of us that build specials That's one issue ticked off my list !! Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on Sept 6, 2018 22:31:31 GMT 1
Yep, my SS70 only had a rear brake light switch.
Alex
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Post by stumpy on Sept 7, 2018 16:01:02 GMT 1
Anything Pre 1984 only needs one brake light as i understand.
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 10, 2018 21:19:29 GMT 1
Hi mate I was reading a back issue of Mechanics last night - randomly plucked from a huge pile in the shed - and read an article by Stan Stephens on fitting Tz700/750 barrels and heads to an Lc bottom end. Says it's as cheap to do as reboring and mild tuning a standard engine !! Seems improbable but ? Have you seen the article ? Dusty
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Post by veg on Sept 10, 2018 22:12:42 GMT 1
Hi dusty you scanned it and emailed it to me about 2 years ago yes it’s been that long. 👍 As for cheap, mmmm barrels and head used £600 Re coated barrel £200 Tz intake rubbers £200 Tz reed valves £200 34 mm carbs £250 Tz exhausts Uber expensive Tz exhaust springs and gaskets £100 Tz offset head coolant stat £100 Tz brass barrel plugs etc etc etc etc Christ knows what planet he is on 😀
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 10, 2018 22:16:30 GMT 1
Blimey, don't remember doing that !! I didn't think it would be a cheap option ! Dusty
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Post by veg on Sept 10, 2018 22:29:54 GMT 1
I hadn’t started to tot it up Jesus h, I must be mad 😀
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 11, 2018 7:14:58 GMT 1
Haha, yea, mad for totting it all up ! Not mad for doing it Dusty
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Post by mikee on Sept 11, 2018 20:00:17 GMT 1
You need front and rear brake light switched , or non at all for mot , construction and use regs are a different thing Mike
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Post by veg on Sept 15, 2018 13:54:40 GMT 1
Carbs drilled tapped and oil nozzles fitted Pmd norbo didn’t get a reply? So made my own tacho blank using 3mm alloy sheet with the original tacho guide cut down sandwiched together Now onto these bloody brakes
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Post by wallcraft on Sept 15, 2018 20:26:41 GMT 1
Hi Veg, I too have to fit oil nozzles to my recently acquired 34s, were did you get yours from and what size hole is needed and thread size please. Top draw build, can't wait to see the dyno figures. 70/75 bhp ?
Mark.
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Post by dusty350 on Sept 15, 2018 20:40:53 GMT 1
That looks "factory". Great job Dusty
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Post by veg on Sept 15, 2018 23:08:43 GMT 1
Mark if it makes more than 55 bhp I will be happy got them from norbo £8 for the 2, I drilled 3 mm then tapped them
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Post by veg on Sept 15, 2018 23:09:49 GMT 1
Dusty you are too kind.
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Post by veg on Sept 22, 2018 12:55:46 GMT 1
So I was struggling to find an appropriate clamp to hold the front and rear brake lines in place and I didn’t want to just cable tie them so an idea popped into my head what about Using the old ap brake caliper mount and making one for the front and one for the rear so I went from a big piece of alloy to a smaller piece to this It’s not perfect but it’s better than a cable tie Now just got to fabricate the rear one The more I do the more I have to redo, the brakes took me over 6 hours to bleed nothing seemed to work I bought a one way valve nope, then a gunson easy bleed easy bleed my arse then I thought what about fitting a syringe and pulling it through and that did it
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Post by veg on Sept 22, 2018 12:58:34 GMT 1
Now I have bothered to read the instructions for my tacho and speedo I realise my brackets may not work so may have to re fab them. Then I have to sort the wiring and hopefully I can then get it running and set up at daves place 😵
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