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Post by jon on Jun 11, 2016 21:43:24 GMT 1
Not content with one build, I seem to have bitten the bullet and gone for several at once. This was supposed to be a quick refresh of a YPVS to use as a 'driver' where I wasn't too worried about how good it was. I bought this YPVS knowing it was a ten footer. It was local, had an MOT, and the price was fair (IMO). Elsie's younger friend: There were a few things wrong with it as far as I was concerned, the exhausts were way too loud, and I wouldn't even drive it until I got a quieter set. One thing led to another as I took more and more parts off it. I was not happy with the whole way it was put together, so the only thing for it was to strip the lot, and start again. Who was I trying to kid this wasn't what was going to happen anyway?
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Post by unrealedd on Jun 12, 2016 11:34:33 GMT 1
That' looks like a tidy f2 you got there! How many bikes do you have ? And My missus thinks I have a problem lol. Don't spend to much on this one as the others still need some of your wealth.
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Post by jon on Jun 12, 2016 17:46:52 GMT 1
Hi Edd, it may have looked like a tidy YPVS, which is what initially made me go and see it; that and it was only up the road.
However, as stated I'd call this a 10 footer. It looked great at 10 foot, but inspect it closer and it was rough rounds the edges.
I knew what I was buying though (a project) I just couldn't admit it to myself.
There will be a house of horrors uncovered during this build, but I'm still glad I bought it, and I think the price was about right in this day and age, so didn't haggle. I hate people who haggle just to try and get it cheaper if they know it's on the money.
I figured if a part had 10 scratches on it instead of one it wouldn't make any difference once cleaned up.
Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 28, 2016 8:19:37 GMT 1
As said before, when I bought this bike I was aware or the following problems: Exhausts too loud Front tyre kept going flat Brakes needed attention Fairing had been functionally repaired, but cosmetically bad from inside I was going to just rectify the first 3 and ride it, however as I started stripping bits off I want happy with the way it was put together, and wondered about the rest of it if I left it. Lucky I did as I'll explain later. There was nothing I could do with the exhausts as the end cans were welded on, with no baffles! They were totally the wrong dimensions anyway, so I just cut the flanges off and recycled them. The rims were covered in layers of old paint that had been badly scraped away and left gouges and an uneven surface. A new set turned up at a good price. Tyres were swapped over as they were virtually new. The brakes were interesting. The front calipers were lasy (as usual on an old YPVS) and the disks were good, but near wear limit. A good set of disks came up on Swedish eBay so they were bought. Calipers were a result as I saw triumph were selling off what was obviously the last stock of right hand brand new 955i calipers for £50 each. I bought 2 and then two second had lefts and swapped the new bits into one set. I then machined off the logo. First horror was the rear caliper. I worked out it could not be bled in situ, as it wa actually a front right so the bleed nipple was not at its highest! On stripping down it also had no dust seal as the groove had cracked away and corroded. Recycle bin again, and spare parts raided. After loads of little frame repairs I got to the stage of taking it to the powder coaters.
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Post by yamark on Jul 28, 2016 18:23:52 GMT 1
Fast work Jon, It sounds like you made the right decision to strip the bike. What's your time scale to complete the bike? and are you keeping those colours?
Cheers Mark
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Post by jon on Jul 28, 2016 19:14:27 GMT 1
Mark, it's not really fast work, as I bought this nearly exactly a year ago.
I part stripped it down and left it for about 9 months while I concentrated on my other build. It was getting in the way a bit so I had to make a decision to either just sort out the known bad bits and throw it back together, or fully strip it.
I'm so glad I decided to strip the engine now rather than later. It drove fine getting it back home (even if a little loud).
Looking up the exhaust ports the barrels looked un-scored, but the left piston exhaust side was scored as if it had had a minor heat seize. Off came the barrels and head, and sure enough there were a few scores below the exhaust port. Nothing too bad at this stage.
However on turning the nice smooth crank round to check it, I suddenly noticed the thrust washer on the left had split, and would have completely obliterated the crank, and probably damage the cases and cylinder while doing so.
After taking the crank to Bob he initially thought it would have damaged the webs, but was surprised when it was taken apart they were fine. He even said the middle of the crank would be good to go again without new labarynth seal or bearings, but I'm yet to decide whether not to replace while its apart.
Close shave!
That was it, it was all coming apart.
Plans are for a fast turn around, but every part will be refurbished or replaced. It will be standard apart from:
Microns (large can - quieter) Triumph 4 pot front calipers and braided hoses Kenny Roberts paint (with white bits)
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Post by jon on Aug 7, 2016 9:32:34 GMT 1
Well I've been working on all three projects on and off, and this is the first to start being put back together. One of the plus points for this bike was the chrome on the forks looked quite reasonable. They were polished slightly, and had a few gouges here and there, but nothing that wasn't easy enough to tidy up. I got a call on Friday the frame was ready at the powder coaters, so picked it up on the way home. I must say I'm really quite pleased with the result. I couldn't make up my mind between a satin finish or gloss. I may well decide for the satin on my other YPVS. I got my LC done there a while back, but it was a sort of satin pewter colour, so had nothing to gauge what their gloss powder came out like. Anyway I went for the gloss black, and it is really quite glossy. Next step is tidying the forks. I've rubbed one leg down and ordered some red scotchbrite.
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Post by fatty on Aug 15, 2016 21:18:51 GMT 1
So Far so good, brave doing two projects at once I did a couple of fizzys together Emptied my piggy bank faster than i could imagine....
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Post by jon on Aug 17, 2016 21:08:15 GMT 1
Fatty, I'm actually doing three RD projects at once, rather than two. Thankfully it's been a couple of years since my LC was finished, so I've been stashing all sorts of parts. Unfortunately my LC now needs the odd bit doing to it too after riding it for two years. Never ending cycle ... (or should that be motor...cycle ). Jon
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Post by pedroshaw on Aug 20, 2016 10:45:02 GMT 1
The bike looked fine before you stripped it looking forward to seeing it done
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Post by jon on Oct 31, 2016 21:01:51 GMT 1
Well, long time since an update, but I've been working on and off on all 3 projects. Mainly buying loads of parts (which has been expensive). I've got a pile of parts, but it would be like a shopping catalogue to post photos. Anyway, I've focused on this bike more, and can see some progress. Every part is either new or refurbished. Blasted yolks: New forks bits. Genuine bushes and seals and PD valves. Progressive springs Damper rods modified for the PD valves Swingarm coated and new bearings, bushes and seals Blasted bits Triumph calipers. Now I've a bit a story with these. I saw that triumph were selling the last of their NOS calipers. They only had right ones left. I bought 2 for around £100. I then bought 2 second hand left calipers. That way I had enough to build up a set that new Pistons, seals, pads etc for good money, and have another set too.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 31, 2016 21:09:38 GMT 1
Jon If you don't mind me asking. Whats PD valves, how do they work and what are you expecting as an improvement?
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Post by jon on Oct 31, 2016 21:25:25 GMT 1
They are the poor man's cartridge fork.
They work exceptionally well. I fitted them to my LC along with progressive springs in TZR forks, and they transformed the front end.
Basically they are a bit like a reed valve, in that they they are variable.
The standard setup is a compromise between shallow undulations and harsh bumps in the road. They are set up mid way and so never work for every situation.
PD valves offer a variable solution. The damper rods have to have extra flow for fast flow if needed. However the PD valves only allow enough oil through dependant on pressure (severity of bump).
Look them up, I'm sure you'll get a more technical answer.
Jon
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 31, 2016 21:27:21 GMT 1
Thanks for that jon
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Post by yamark on Oct 31, 2016 21:38:40 GMT 1
Looking good Jon Great work
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begbie
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 249
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Post by begbie on Nov 1, 2016 1:16:37 GMT 1
They are the poor man's cartridge fork. They work exceptionally well. I fitted them to my LC along with progressive springs in TZR forks, and they transformed the front end. Basically they are a bit like a reed valve, in that they they are variable. The standard setup is a compromise between shallow undulations and harsh bumps in the road. They are set up mid way and so never work for every situation. PD valves offer a variable solution. The damper rods have to have extra flow for fast flow if needed. However the PD valves only allow enough oil through dependant on pressure (severity of bump). Look them up, I'm sure you'll get a more technical answer. Jon Thats not quite how they work, By enlarging the holes in the damper rod you transfer the compression damping to the cartridge. Rebound damping is altered by oil weight.
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Post by jon on Nov 1, 2016 8:31:21 GMT 1
Begbie, that's more or less what I was trying to say.
In an unmodified damper rod, too much oil goes through the holes to produce adequate low speed damping and too little oil is able to pass through the holes to provide enough high speed damping. The forks dive too much over small bumps or because of braking and suffer hydraulic lock when they get a really big hit.
Making them bigger allows the valve to pass enough oil if need be, while the valve only lets a small amount through in other cases when it needs.
Jon
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Post by 4l04ever on Nov 1, 2016 14:14:20 GMT 1
From what I have read, when fitting PD valves (Cartridge emulators), you have to change to non-progressive springs?
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Post by 4l04ever on Nov 1, 2016 14:16:40 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Nov 1, 2016 16:20:00 GMT 1
4lo4ever, i hadn't seen that suggestion from racetec about linear springs. No such reference I can find on the YSS website, which are the type I have. I expect they all work in a similar way.
The Haygon progressive springs I have used are unusual as they are the original length in linear spring rate, then progressively wound for about the length of the preload spacer, so they should behave like normal until heavy load I would have thought.
I'll try them and see, but if they are anything like the improvement on my TZR forks I'll be happy. I could always try the originals back in to see out of interest.
Jon
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Post by 4l04ever on Nov 2, 2016 19:43:15 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Dec 29, 2016 19:32:34 GMT 1
I've been collecting a lot of bits to rebuild 4 YPVS engines over the last couple of years. I figured some parts were essential, while others were not. However I'm starting to think why not build all 4 to as best I can. I'm not sure the last engine will get transplanted anyway! 4 Rebuilt YPVS cranksafsts with new conrods/webs if needed, and all new bearings including TZ big ends: 3 Rebored YPVS barrels with new pistons: And loads of gaskets, and bearings:
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Post by 350guy on Dec 29, 2016 20:58:41 GMT 1
Nice stash of parts!
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Post by Yogi on Dec 30, 2016 21:38:24 GMT 1
Hi Jon
Who does your rebores mate I know you don't live too far from me and I need a set doing
Cheers Matt
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Post by jon on Dec 31, 2016 10:44:25 GMT 1
Yogi, it's bittersweet news to tell you Bob Farnham. He has now gone into semi/retirement.
Over the last couple of years I have had 3 rebores, and 3 cranks dome by him. He also tuned a set of YPVS barrels barrels for me.
In fact the reason I've been stock piling is that I have known this for a while, and so have been 'investing' any spare cash into getting them done.
There is some good news though. He seems to be friends with the guy who runs TSR (vapour blasting etc). Bob told me just before Christmas that TSR now had his boring bar, and that he was teaching him how to use it properly. So who knows in future I'll probably go there.
I had a set of cases vapour blasted there, and he did a nice job. I think £60 was nearing expensive, but he is localish, and I didn't fancy sending cases through the post elsewhere in case (sic) they were damaged.
Jon
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Post by jon on Jan 24, 2017 22:28:20 GMT 1
I have prepared the top end for paint by blasting and masking all the bits. I'll probably just stick to good old BBQ paint, and a heat gun to cure.
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Post by jon on May 12, 2017 18:33:36 GMT 1
It's been a while since I posted on progress on my projects. I've been recovering financially from a car purchase, but it's on track now to carry on with the money pits. I've cleaned and blasted the splitters I had for the front brake lines. Turns out one is an RD500LC one, god knows how that got onto a 350? Made a stainless side stand bolt and nut, Then bolted the side stand using a stainless spring, I also ground the old bars off the clamps, as they were chrome?! I will replace with bar, and paint them black. The rest of the time I've been making clutch covers in both billet and Lexan. I'll have some left overs for sale soon.
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Post by Yogi on May 12, 2017 18:54:05 GMT 1
Looking good Jon
Is that f2 shock still for sale mate
Atb Matt
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Post by spudmab on May 12, 2017 19:55:06 GMT 1
Nice progress with your project,
i might be interested in a clear clutch cover, any photos and price please
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Post by jon on May 13, 2017 7:32:30 GMT 1
Looking good Jon Is that f2 shock still for sale mate Atb Matt Sorry Matt it's sold. Jon
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