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Post by mellow on Mar 26, 2016 15:40:52 GMT 1
Hi men. Wonder if anyone got any ideas. When I am off throttle the bike weave's a little but if I apply throttle slightly it stopped. When I restored the bike originally it had new taper head bearings and rear wheel bearings but I could not remember if I replaced Cush drive bearing. So today I changed Cush drive bearing but when the wheel is nipped up the sprocket carrier still wobbles about. The old sprockets looked strangely worn on the rear faces. It seems to me the stepped spacer that fits into the Cush drive bearing isn't mating correctly. I fitted it with smaller diameter side into Cush bearing from the inside of wheel side. I take it that's correct so the wider part of spacer sits against wheel bearing? Its item 17 in this picture  Any ideas greatly appreciated. |
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Post by markhoopy on Mar 26, 2016 16:05:26 GMT 1
What condition are your cush drive rubbers in?
The sprocket carrier shouldn't move about as you say yours does.
When you say there is wear to the rear sprocket where exactly is this?
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Post by mellow on Mar 26, 2016 16:21:40 GMT 1
The cush drive rubbers are brand new fitted today with new bearing and seal. Everything is new including dog leg bushes,swingarm pivot, bearings and seals from swingarm back. The whole wheel assembly only just slots in between the swingarm ends so would think it would all be tight hence why i think may be a problem with the spacer or how its fitted  The wear on the sprocket is on the rear side (towards inside of wheel). |
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Post by markhoopy on Mar 26, 2016 17:07:27 GMT 1
Have you ever checked your wheel alignment properly using straight edges or lines?
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Post by mellow on Mar 26, 2016 17:10:05 GMT 1
yes but i think the problem lies with the cush hub  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 26, 2016 17:11:18 GMT 1
It's a c3 bearing so will have some play
As for the weave the on throttle is moving the weight back
Check the wheel balance/tyre wear/tyre seating/head bearing tightness
They can be a bit wobbly
Steve
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Post by wonkywheel on Mar 26, 2016 20:25:52 GMT 1
Just a thought, do you have a tight spot on your chain? That can cause a negative feel.
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Post by jon on Mar 26, 2016 20:51:58 GMT 1
Mellow, if the problem is only when you back off the throttle, then don't back it off  On a serious note, are you comparing it to your R1? If so then don't. Jon |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 26, 2016 21:02:23 GMT 1
If it's any help, Mellow, as Midlifecrisisrd points out, I once had a weaving effect when rolling off the throttle and at slow speed that was down to the steering head bearings being over tightened.
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Post by looey on Mar 27, 2016 11:43:22 GMT 1
I assume there's no play in the rear wheel itself or swingarm ?, which suggests the spacing is correct across the spindle ?. If there's no movement in the wheel and only in the sprocket carrier, then I'd be very surprised if that would effect the handling at all. Is the stepped spacer from the sprocket carrier a nice interference fit in the sprocket carrier bearing ?. With the head bearings they can be fiddly to get the tightness correct, especially as most people don't realise that when you do the top yoke top nut up, it does apply some extra pressure and change the adjustment, so some trial and error is needed. Basically you want them adjusted tight enough so that there is no free play in the bearings that can felt when pulling backwards and forwards on the bottom of the forks with the wheel in the air. They should free enough that the bars will drop from side to side freely and when you hold the bars and turn them slowly from side to side, you shouldn't feel any resistance at the point when you stop and change direction, if you do, they are slightly too tight. Hope that helps |
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Post by mellow on Mar 27, 2016 12:20:13 GMT 1
Hi. There is no play in the rear wheel bearings and the spacer has to be persuaded gently into the cush drive hub. As for the tapered bearings i get what u say looey. When i adjust so there's no play then tighten the top bolt they got stiffer so had a few goes at loosening off a tiny bit then doing top bolt up. I'm sure they still knocked a little over bumps or on heavy breaking so tightened up a little. does my swede in |
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Post by davecroucher57v on Mar 27, 2016 22:06:11 GMT 1
i have just got a new one.and its still sloppy.
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Post by mellow on Mar 28, 2016 9:48:53 GMT 1
NEW what mate cush drive or rubbers?
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Post by davecroucher57v on Mar 28, 2016 10:28:20 GMT 1
item 17 the coller its too loose on the spindle .a mates making one . spindles very good con.
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Post by davecroucher57v on Mar 28, 2016 10:29:58 GMT 1
item 17 the coller its too loose on the spindle .a mates making one . spindles very good con.
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Post by looey on Mar 28, 2016 10:33:13 GMT 1
Aaaaaahh, so it's a good fit into the cush drive bearing but the inside diameter is too large for the wheel spindle ?.
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Post by davecroucher57v on Mar 28, 2016 10:37:55 GMT 1
i use inner tube cut to size. glued to the sprocket carrier.even new rubbers have sum movement.
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Post by davecroucher57v on Mar 28, 2016 10:40:14 GMT 1
looey.yes.
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Post by mellow on Mar 28, 2016 19:01:11 GMT 1
could you get me one pls |
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Post by davecroucher57v on Mar 30, 2016 22:14:22 GMT 1
it will be 3/5 weeks as 421 shat its self.
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Post by mellow on Mar 31, 2016 6:57:07 GMT 1
Have enquired at fowlers for the spacers as they temporarily unavailable. Spindle shouldn't wear as doesn't turn. Gonna take wheel back off and check it all although I'm sure was all a good fit.
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Post by Tone on Mar 31, 2016 9:15:18 GMT 1
I would have thought that once the wheel spindle is fully tightened that the collar #17 should be tightened against the inner race of the LH side wheel bearing, so any play felt will be movement in the cush drive bearing. Are you sure you have the cush drive bearing #12 fully home in the cush drive assembly #11 ?
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Post by mellow on Mar 31, 2016 13:17:34 GMT 1
yeah had to drift it in a bit :|i even thought maybe its wrong way round but just it just dont fit that way round |
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Post by davecroucher57v on Apr 1, 2016 22:05:36 GMT 1
the collar cant be to tight it wont go over the spindle threads. bollocks.sometimes the sprocket carrier are abit slack around the bearing.loctite.
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Post by mellow on Apr 2, 2016 13:32:11 GMT 1
To recap-new wheel bearings and cush drive bearings- new cush drive rubbers.
All bearings had to be driven in after using a little heat on the hub.
Cush drive spacer had to be driven in so no bearings or spacers are loose.
Think I'm going to get the big torque wrench out and do the spindle up to the seemingly ridiculous 60/70lb ft manual states even though I was advised not to torque wheels up before just do them tight with socket/spanner after problems on my dt wheel.
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Post by looey on Apr 2, 2016 16:52:33 GMT 1
That's not that much is it?, some Yamahas are 150nm / 111 lb/ft |
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Post by mellow on Apr 2, 2016 17:42:00 GMT 1
thats right loooey - my R1 is 150Nm but thats a bigger spindle/wheel etc The other pain in the arse is when doing up the nut on the F2 the adjuster mark brackets twist and bend where they hook under the swingarm as you turn the nut  |
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Post by looey on Apr 2, 2016 19:43:35 GMT 1
Sell it and get a Honda C90   |
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Post by mellow on Apr 2, 2016 21:12:06 GMT 1
Collectors item
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Post by mellow on Apr 21, 2016 11:34:04 GMT 1
could someone please confirm if the o ring on the left hand side fits onto the outside of the wheel hub or inside it where the cush drive fits please? the wheel hub has a groove so i fitted to outside of that |
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