daveg
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Posts: 268
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Post by daveg on Apr 23, 2007 14:18:46 GMT 1
Hi All, I removed my oil level sender as I am using premix directly in the petrol tank, and when I disconnected the sender unit, I couldn't start the bike. I tried to follow the wiring diagram, and can see that it would disable the neutral light, but I don't understand why it would stop the bike from starting??? Anyone know? The second question would be which wires would I need to cross connect to make it think that the oil level sender was still connected? At the moment I am running with the sender lose under my seat. I am using the oil tank as a catch bottle (racing purposes).
Thanks, Dave
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Post by mellow on Apr 23, 2007 18:03:28 GMT 1
wot bike m8 if its got the sidestand switch i know the neutral light bit works with the switch n praps the sender goes off the same earth bit thingy
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Post by billbott on Apr 23, 2007 18:46:45 GMT 1
wot bike m8 if its got the sidestand switch i know the neutral light bit works with the switch n praps the sender goes off the same earth bit thingy Cant understand all this technical information ;D
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Post by pablo on Apr 23, 2007 19:59:07 GMT 1
he's lost me as well ;D
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Post by mellow on Apr 23, 2007 21:23:20 GMT 1
il try again............if not il ask nikko to try n translate it for u.......... the sidestand switch................links to neatral indicator...........and im sayin maybe the earth bit goes through the oil sender to.so if u unplug that it breaks the circuit n wont start?
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Post by scott on Apr 23, 2007 21:37:12 GMT 1
exatly what i was finkin ;D ;D
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Post by mellow on Apr 23, 2007 21:39:45 GMT 1
;D
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Post by pablo on Apr 24, 2007 21:11:27 GMT 1
got any do-nuts Mick?
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Post by mellow on Apr 24, 2007 22:14:21 GMT 1
theres a few on here m8 ;D
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daveg
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Post by daveg on Apr 25, 2007 9:34:25 GMT 1
The bike is a 31K (RD350 YPVS), so coming back to the question - there are 3 wires connecting the oil level sender - if I want to remove this, what do I need to do to make the bike start. I don't use the side stand either, by the way - and I haven't noticed a side stand switch....
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Post by Dirtbag on May 3, 2007 12:43:03 GMT 1
Personally I would re-connect the sender unit , take out the oil warning light bulb (if it bothers you).
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daveg
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Post by daveg on May 4, 2007 14:29:03 GMT 1
I am using it reconnected but it's floating around under my seat because I use the oil tank as a catch tank for other "fluids", I route all the overflow pipes from the carbs, battery, crankcase etc.. into the hole taken by the oil sender. Therefore I need to find it another home or remove it - the ideal situation!
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Post by Dirtbag on May 4, 2007 15:00:18 GMT 1
According to Haynes Manual wiring diagram.....join the black wire and the brown wire together. Hope this helps
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daveg
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Post by daveg on May 4, 2007 17:01:41 GMT 1
Using my Haynes manual I can see your logic, you are in fact saying short the switch out - I think. whilst I agree this could be done on the sender itself. I am not sure that connecting the black and brown on the connector would have the same effect as I would be missing the diode shown on the sender unit. What do you think? The Black goes directly to the negative terminal of the battery, and Brown is often the +12 volts - I think this might blow a fuse somewhere without the diode shunting off some of the current?
IS it the same in your manual that the light blue wire from the sender seems to be connected into the Brown part of the connector?? I think this must be a printing error ....?
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Post by Dirtbag on May 5, 2007 8:01:46 GMT 1
I see where you're coming from mate , but the oil level sensor isnt really a diode as such.....it's more like a potentiometer that has a trigger point (if that makes sense) , the best way to try it is to put a 5 amp fuse between the black and the brown wires....if it blows....you know to try the light blue wire instead............that way it'll protect the rest of your loom from possible damage. I'd try all permeatations........black with blue , black with brown , and brown with blue.........for the sake of possibly 3 blown fuses , you've damaged nothing. Hope this helps
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daveg
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Post by daveg on May 5, 2007 14:39:25 GMT 1
Good idea, about the fuses - I'll try it - thanks Dirtbag!
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Post by Dirtbag on May 8, 2007 7:31:51 GMT 1
Any luck Dave ?
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daveg
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Post by daveg on May 8, 2007 8:50:43 GMT 1
I won't get a chance to try until after the weekend - I've got my first race this coming weekend and things are hectic to get the bike back together. I will get my barrels and pistons back from the shop on Wednesday, and I leave on Friday (for the circuit), with running in etc... BTW, because I can't run my bike on the road I will problems running it in properly before hitting the circuit, can I leave it running on a high tickover with a fan in front of the radiator to cool it, to gain some time?
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Post by Dirtbag on May 9, 2007 12:44:58 GMT 1
That is a good option.......... set it to run @ 6,000 rpm....that should run it in and free it off nicely. Keep your eye on the temp gauge though
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