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Post by d6lc on Dec 1, 2014 0:49:56 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 1, 2014 9:39:47 GMT 1
Excellent starting point, you got lucky there.
It's funny how Yamaha mixed and matched models from around the world.
Always thought the US model was just a UK Lc2 (83/84) with different paint and the fuel/exhaust differences for emissions but notice it has the electrics from our 85 N1/F1.
Means that after 84 our bikes had all the full fairing lugs on the frame even on the naked bike but they were still making the earlier frame that did not have them.
A bit jealous of your find thinking about the state of my next possible project.
Steve
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 1, 2014 10:02:58 GMT 1
Hi, Great bike to start off with. Think you've been really lucky with that one Good luck with the build. Dusty
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Post by yamark on Dec 1, 2014 18:51:03 GMT 1
Hi, welcome to the forum. Looks like a complete bike, very nice indeed. Good luck with the project
Regards Mark
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Post by copper99 on Dec 1, 2014 19:59:10 GMT 1
Look forward to seeing this come togetehr mate, good luck..Im sure someone will be along soon to advise re the frame paint.
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Post by d6lc on Dec 2, 2014 15:17:58 GMT 1
Thanks for the comments chaps.
So I have been thinking what to do next, clearly as a 30 year old bike it has some marks on the frame and the wheels/hanger alloy has some corrosion, nothing that couldn’t be polished out through, also chassis items like brake calipers are chipped. Very few bolts though are corroded which surprised me as the bike has lived in Minnesota all its life, I guess our winters are so cold and harsh, it has never really been ridden in the rain or salt. One thing that is poor is the bodywork, with cracked side panels, and badly scratched tank, so that will all need re-painting/replacing. So my choices are: 1. Give the bike a thorough clean, polish, touch up the paint on the frame where it needs repairing, but don’t powdercoat it (as its under a side panel you can’t see it anyway). Replace/replate the odd fastener that is really bad. And get it as original (Apart from the bodywork & stands need painting) as possible with age related patina and mechanically perfect. 2. Same as above, but don’t repaint, just polish it up and pick up used parts to replace the cracked as they become available (I know this is nearly impossible) 3. Do a full restoration, powdercoat the frame, repaint anything marked or scratched and make it as good as I can.
To be honest I am leaning towards 1, as I don’t think it is really worth the expense of 3, and I’m not doing it to have a perfect show bike. I also like the originality of a bike looking as it did when it rolled out of the factory, I think a few age marks add character. The flip side is that I am a bit of a perfectionist and like it to look good (I am sure there is some sort of classic motorcycle related bi polar condition)
What do you guys think, many of you have been through this process, so I’m interested in your opinions. Would you prefer an original bike with a few marks or a perfect bike?.
Any views appreciated
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Post by anyoldiron on Dec 2, 2014 16:24:30 GMT 1
Honestly, if i were you i would take the second option, first if you have to. Whatever you do don't a number three, there are too many decent bikes that get ruined by 110 point restoration, they are only original once. lf you want to do that level of work, buy a bag of bones that you will be truly saving, rather than burdening the world with another Barrett Jackson special. lts hard i know, i have a IT125 thats a survivor, its been hard for the ''perfectionist' in me to resist the urge to 'just paint the swing arm'' , as i know it will lead to ''just paint the bottom of the exhaust'' etc etc etc Well, you asked!
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Post by 2strokes on Dec 2, 2014 23:20:53 GMT 1
great project but if it was me would do it to ride it mate
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Post by 2strokes on Dec 2, 2014 23:21:03 GMT 1
c
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Post by d6lc on Dec 15, 2014 19:17:47 GMT 1
So the strip down is ongoing and I managed to get some time on the bike this weekend. I’ve gotten as far as I can without another round of degreasing, as you can see the bike is pretty caked with crud. Any recommendations on what to use bearing in mind it’s in the workshop and with freezing temps I can’t get it outside to rinse degreaser off. Shock actually may be in good condition after all the grime is removed, fingers crossed that the preload adjuster will still work.
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Post by copper99 on Dec 15, 2014 21:11:07 GMT 1
I thin that really needs some degreaser and a good hosing off mate...you'll get thru a stack of aerosols trying to shift that and only end up with it looking half done.
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Post by bofski25 on Dec 17, 2014 20:50:29 GMT 1
your so lucky to find a great base to start with not many out there like that one
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Post by d6lc on Dec 19, 2014 0:03:01 GMT 1
I feel like Christmas has come early, I decided to just try and wipe the worst of the crud off. It’s like a time capsule underneath all that crap.
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Post by billyboy on Dec 20, 2014 22:48:08 GMT 1
Looking good ! it's amazing how well oily crud preserves plating and paint , love the US paintscheme on the 31k's and if it were me i'd try and get it as good as possible over this winter , ride it through next spring /summer then do the big stripdown and recon over as long as you like , that way you'll have some fun and get to know of any problems . where abouts in the world are you ? looks mighty cold there at the moment !
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Post by d6lc on Dec 22, 2014 20:16:34 GMT 1
All stripped now, frame is out to get the oil tank mount welded back on, then its off to the powdercoaters! The boring part of a restoration begins now with all the cleaning of parts ready for the rebuild
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Post by kostas on Dec 22, 2014 23:36:19 GMT 1
Good choice to get the frame powder coated, now there is no way back, every singe part that is not spot on you will want to throw away So welcome to a full nut and bolt rebuild. Have a close look at the belt adjuster of the rear shock, mine disintegrated as soon as I tried to rotate the adjuster. You are also missing a rubber bung that goes in that rear shock at the bottom of the piston shaft. Have a look at Norbos shop the F2 shock has the same thing also Good luck, nice starting point anyway! Kostas
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Post by anyoldiron on Dec 23, 2014 16:07:31 GMT 1
'' then its off to the powdercoaters!'' Thats you screwed then See if you can hang anything minging on that immaculate frame, i tried it once, a few grand later i had a bike that was too nice for me to ride, so i sold it and brought two more
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Post by d6lc on Dec 23, 2014 18:21:59 GMT 1
well the bodywork is off to be re-painted, new engine covers......death by a thousand NOS ebay purchases
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Post by d6lc on Jan 2, 2015 2:07:53 GMT 1
So thought I would post an update, as you will have seen to date that this rebuild has pretty much gone from a tidy up to a nut and bolt rebuild. Been busy over the holiday week. Frame, side and main stand off to the powder coaters, barrels off for a rebore, all the fasteners are degreased and off to the zinc platers and bodywork off to the painters. Engine internals cleaned and the top crankcase painted. Im probably about 4 weeks away from getting all the parts back, so time to attack all the cleaning, polishing and painting of the remaining parts, the crappy part of a restoration! Fasteners and rubber parts cleaned But alot more to do!!
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Post by kostas on Jan 2, 2015 18:38:02 GMT 1
Moving really fast there, Did you check your crank??
Kostas
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Post by d6lc on Jan 2, 2015 19:45:48 GMT 1
Having to replace the crank as I cant get the flywheel off and ended up spliting the spindle, detailed it in the technical section!!
Actually got a new one cheaper than I could buy all the replacement parts to rebuild mine!
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Post by marsbar350 on Jan 2, 2015 21:26:24 GMT 1
your making a great job so far are the people doing powder coating plating etc pretty local to you hope you get a good match on the frame colour seen some awful pinky pigs done
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Post by lcyoungboy on Jan 3, 2015 16:52:45 GMT 1
This is going to be a lovely bike..and a great base to start..keep the pics coming
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Post by d6lc on Jan 12, 2015 16:27:41 GMT 1
Not much of an update for the rebuild, been cleaning all the sundry parts that need painting and getting ready for the rebuild. Stripped all the brakes, they all need painting, one piston on the front caliper was in for good!, took WD40 and a blow torch to get it out, as you can see plenty of corrosion in there!. Some parts came up like new after a quick ultrasonic bath. Finally found a use for the dishwasher in the basement, all the plastic parts are oil and grease free now.
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Post by d6lc on Jan 19, 2015 0:15:33 GMT 1
Kids didn’t have any sports this week so managed to get a good 6 hrs in the garage on Saturday. First a big credit to Dusty350 for the suggestion of using an ultrasonic to clean the woring harness connectors, I really wasn’t looking forward to that job but it was a piece of cake with the ultrasonic and the connectors come up like new. Got all the parts that need painting prepped and painted, just 1 more coat and they should be finished. Stripped the forks & footrest hangers of the lacquer, sanded them with 400, then 800 then scotchbrite before re-lacquering them, really please with eth finished article as I want to stay as close to the original finish as possible and didn’t want to polish them. For the eagle eyed yes there is a run on eth hanger that needs flatting out and lacquering again!
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 19, 2015 8:27:17 GMT 1
Hi You are doing a great job, this bike is going to look like new Attention to detail is everything. Well done Dusty
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Post by copper99 on Jan 20, 2015 20:01:38 GMT 1
Nice work mate...doing that justice.
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Post by kennyroberts on Jan 20, 2015 22:33:42 GMT 1
Great attention to detail. I look forward to more progress pics.
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Post by d6lc on Jan 25, 2015 23:04:35 GMT 1
Thanks for the positive comments guys, as you now it helps with the motivation to keep the project moving. Finished a lot of the painting of the black chassis parts this weekend and I’ll post pictures of the parts as I use them in the rebuild. My powervalve covers were scratched and corroded, so finished those, first sanded them and painted them black Then sanded the flat surface on 150 grade paper until I removed the black, 150 pretty much gave the same level of grain as the original, Finally gave them a spray of clear lacquer to finish, really please how they came out. I plan to do the same for the YPVS logo’s on the heads. Also worked on the discs, they were ok, but the centers needed painting, wire brushed them and masked up the discs but cut the masking just clear of the edge. After painting ran a razor blade over to edges to clean off the overspray. One think I noticed was the edge of the front disc rims were painted gold originally but not the rear disc edge, so didn’t paint that to keep the originality.
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Post by marsbar350 on Jan 25, 2015 23:19:30 GMT 1
making a right nice job there keep the pics coming
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