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Post by chris l on Jan 8, 2014 1:48:12 GMT 1
Hello ,Im new to the site and just wondering if these is any full gasket sets people swear by or ones I should steer clear of ? , cheers in advance ,,chris |
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Post by arrow on Jan 8, 2014 8:22:53 GMT 1
I swear by the genuine Yamaha gaskets. When the build is complete then I can sit back and enjoy, knowing that I spent extra money for something that I know is right.
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 8, 2014 8:27:48 GMT 1
+1 on genuine Yamaha. All the gaskets are still available, and anything other than genuine is a false economy imo. Same with seals too, don't risk it.
Dusty
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Post by chris l on Jan 8, 2014 17:26:06 GMT 1
cheers for the advice guys , taken on board cheers
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 8, 2014 23:31:01 GMT 1
Good quality pattern gaskets seem fine except head gaskets on a 4L0.
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Post by aussieelsie on Jan 30, 2014 7:59:28 GMT 1
Tried to use a pattern gearbox cover gasket. Ok across the top however 3-4mm mismatch around the bottom. Ended up using Gen Yam. Material quality on the Gen product also superior in my view.
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Post by mark350lc on Jan 30, 2014 14:20:04 GMT 1
Another +1 for genuine Yamaha.
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Post by steven on Jan 30, 2014 15:22:31 GMT 1
the one iv just built, I used all genuine yamaha seals and an Athena pattern gasket set.
one thing i did for the first time ever, was to check my squish band once id built the engine.
I also trimmed the base gaskets to suit the barrels, as it looked like they could easily overlap, a brand new craft knife worked perfectly.
I discovered that the squish band was very wide, and that is probably how most of them were when they left the factory.
I looked into buying different thickness of gaskets to adjust my squish band, but i could find no one selling them.
for that reason, the next time i build that engine i will be using another pattern head gasket, as 0.8mm is a good amount to lose when you realise how wide the squish band is/was from standard.
Genuine head gasket thickness = 2.0 mm
Pattern head gasket thickness = 1.2 mm
steven.
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Post by bazzer5115 on Jan 31, 2014 11:00:42 GMT 1
What's the difference in head gasket thickness between pattern and genuine on ypvs head.Just a little worried now as I had genuine gasket but also had new pattern gasket set with bike when I bought it and have mistakenly fitted pattern.Head been modded and squish recut by fahron engineering will it be a little bit tight now .
Baz
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Post by mudguts on Jan 31, 2014 12:06:50 GMT 1
vesrah seem ok, a lot of it is to do with how you fit them, ive had genuine yam blow, ive used yambits stuff all fine, just have a look at them first, threebond on the crankcase halves,
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Post by huggy76 on Jan 31, 2014 17:15:37 GMT 1
Have used pattern gasket sets on 2 builds now but have used genuine head gasket. Only other problem I've come across is the base gaskets needed trimming so they don't overlap as already said above. Have used wicked seal kit on the latest engine build but haven't run it yet so can't comment on those yet.
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Post by mudguts on Jan 31, 2014 18:25:40 GMT 1
My head gasket is just a yambits pattern one, on a rd125lc mk 3, survived over a year of thrashing so far since rebuild. had a genuine yam one go on me once, left me soaked in antifreeze.
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Post by badger69 on Apr 20, 2021 16:06:28 GMT 1
Hi folks, where can I get genuine gasket set, yambits don't have, I purchased an rd LC 250 from a guy on ebay , he stated it had a full rebuild, I've only started it a few times, not ridden it yet, then I noticed a small drop of antifreeze running down the front of the head. Hope it's only head gasket, not full rebuild.
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 20, 2021 16:13:04 GMT 1
Try Norbo - shop link at top of the page, otherwise Fowlers of Bristol will have them   |
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Post by oldelsieboy on Apr 20, 2021 16:16:50 GMT 1
Hello ,Im new to the site and just wondering if these is any full gasket sets people swear by or ones I should steer clear of ? , cheers in advance ,,chris I've use Athena gasket sets on plenty of LC rebuilds with out any issues, everything fits as it should. OEB |
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 20, 2021 16:25:02 GMT 1
I've used Athena ones plenty of times too with no known issues. All standard builds.
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Post by bare on Apr 20, 2021 17:00:16 GMT 1
It IS possible, practical even, to separate the Head gasket into it's 3 different thickness leaves and mix 'n match them for a desired squish.
Best to use the leaves with the stamped in sealing ridges tho.
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 20, 2021 19:08:46 GMT 1
Could be the top of the cylinders may not be level/parallel to each other. If this is the case, my engineer can skim the top of the cylinders as a pair to make sure they are perfectly flat and aligned.
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Post by JonW on Apr 21, 2021 0:24:40 GMT 1
Any yamaha dealer can sell you a gasket for our bikes, else there is norbo and a bunch of other aftermarket suppliers some of which sell OEM as well.
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Post by badger69 on Apr 21, 2021 12:34:57 GMT 1
I've used Athena ones plenty of times too with no known issues. All standard builds. Hi thanks for reply, i will touque head first, what is the safest way to do this, im a begginer at this, what would be a safe touque setting be, do want to damage it anymore, would you touque and run dry for a couple of minutes, then let cool and do again, ive seen this on other quotes, and would it be best to first to remove any excisting coolant from the bike. all help thanked. |
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 21, 2021 12:47:07 GMT 1
LC Cylinder head torque setting 2.4kgf m or 17lbf ft.
I usually torque to about 90%, then do a dry heat cycle as you indicate, cool and then torque to 100%.
Remember to retorque after your first run out too., with coolant!
Torque in the numbered sequence as stamped on the head.
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 21, 2021 13:06:24 GMT 1
The gaskets I make and sell fit very well and are considerably cheaper than OEM. They have been tested on many road and track bikes with no issues. I even make Siamese base gaskets so you know there will be no overlap in the middle.
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Post by donkeychomp on Apr 21, 2021 21:37:32 GMT 1
I use Rob's gaskets. Never had a problem.
Alex
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Post by badger69 on Apr 22, 2021 11:28:39 GMT 1
LC Cylinder head torque setting 2.4kgf m or 17lbf ft. I usually torque to about 90%, then do a dry heat cycle as you indicate, cool and then torque to 100%. Remember to retorque after your first run out too., with coolant! Torque in the numbered sequence as stamped on the head. Hi Shaun, it's shaun again, if this has already been torqued to the recommended setting by the seller before what should I do, I'm hoping he has not torqued it right to the recommended setting, Many people on here say torque past the recommended amount any idea what would be safe to get rid of the small leak, Sorry for sounding stupid(or beginner) but to remove all old antifreeze do I remove the bottom hose from rad, all help is much appreciated as I just won't to get this sorted enough to get rid of it, thanks Shaun from Shaun. |
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 22, 2021 11:44:54 GMT 1
LC Cylinder head torque setting 2.4kgf m or 17lbf ft. I usually torque to about 90%, then do a dry heat cycle as you indicate, cool and then torque to 100%. Remember to retorque after your first run out too., with coolant! Torque in the numbered sequence as stamped on the head. Hi Shaun, it's shaun again, if this has already been torqued to the recommended setting by the seller before what should I do, I'm hoping he has not torqued it right to the recommended setting, Many people on here say torque past the recommended amount any idea what would be safe to get rid of the small leak, Sorry for sounding stupid(or beginner) but to remove all old antifreeze do I remove the bottom hose from rad, all help is much appreciated as I just won't to get this sorted enough to get rid of it, thanks Shaun from Shaun. If you have a coolant leak on the head and its correctly torqued up, I wouldn't over tighten myself, I would be taking the head off to have a look and to replace the head gasket to prevent any future mis-haps. As the base gaskets are cheap I always replace the head and base gaskets at the same time, so always drop the coolant by removing bottom hose as you state. Its fairly straight forward and gives you the opportunity to look at the pistons and bore etc at the same time. |
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Post by badger69 on Jun 5, 2021 16:13:59 GMT 1
Thanks mate, I'm thinking of having a go at changing head gasket on my rd LC 250, you say torque to 90 percent on first torque what pressure would you suggest, then full torque pressure after dry run, would you use sealant on both surfaces of gasket as well, I just won't to get this sorted so I can get rid of it,
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Post by 29davyt on Jun 5, 2021 16:31:57 GMT 1
I’ve used Athena with no issues whatsoever, I also smear the head gasket ( around the water ports) with a micron of sealer as quiet a few others do..works for me , no leaks !!
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Post by badger69 on Oct 24, 2021 15:14:53 GMT 1
The gaskets I make and sell fit very well and are considerably cheaper than OEM. They have been tested on many road and track bikes with no issues. I even make Siamese base gaskets so you know there will be no overlap in the middle. Hi just checking what are the price of your gaskets for LC 250, head and base, thanks |
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 24, 2021 17:33:36 GMT 1
I only do the base gaskets, not head gaskets. £5 a pair or £5 for one single Siamese gasket posted . OEM are 0.6mm, but my supplier stopped making it, so currently only have 0.15mm, 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm and 0.8mm.
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Post by badger69 on Oct 28, 2021 17:21:29 GMT 1
Ok thanks for reply.
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