I was doing my usual the other night, not even run this one in and was thinking if it would work if I fitted a 7mm stroked crank in my spare bottom end with a 1.5mm spacer and this top end would make 405cc
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 19, 2012 9:39:37 GMT 1
Sunny day yesterday, no tax or MOT but couldn't resist. Only done 12 miles but it's a start.
3 mile trundle to dual carriageway to heat up then 6 miles holding at 6000 revs then 3 mile trundle back. Will do this till it gets to 100 miles then find out what it's like wide open at high revs.
Think carbs need some work. Feels nice and crisp when on the throttle ( even tiny amounts) but feels rich and spluttering at neutral throttle. Not too worried as still oily from rebuild and very few miles so will change, also still got to mutate the airbox lid.
Not sure what to do with the stat, as it warms with stat shut it creeps to 3/4 on gauge before falling to half as it opens, you can also see it doing this when running at town speeds but falls to half at dual carriageway speed. Thought about fitting a 55 degree stat but had worries about hot forged pistons and cool bore if it runs too cool. Suppose I'd better wait till more miles and warmer weather to judge how hot it runs. Top end needs to come back off at some point anyway to get rid of the crap pv's and fit the new ones and sort the paint on 1 barrel. Did heat it first but it has managed to bubble where there was moisture in the pores.
As for how it goes, very well. Especially after i sorted the dragging front brake, bloody lever pivot had corroded stopping it returning properly. That's what I get for not stripping and greasing it when I bought it. Actually less vibration than the old motor so not true what they say about stroked motors. Was very impressed to find even at running in speeds that power comes in at 5k so very grunty for a 2 stroke.
Might end up an option but have mailed maxton to find out what can be done.
Had it out last night for another running heat cycle so now 52 miles. Not going to run any more till I get jets as it's not happy on neutral throttle at all, slightest opening and fine so hopefully sorted with the smaller pilots.
Accidentally hit 7k in second, god it picks up quickly.
Got a fireblade with 70mm bore race can, so loud and deep you can feel the bass off it - no complaints.
Came back last night on the rd and wife tells me it's too loud, in fact it's OFFENSIVE and DISTURBING
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 15, 2012 16:53:12 GMT 1
Bit pissed off now.
Got the bike out for another few miles, now up to 85 and revving to 7k through the gears, still rich on the 40 pilots but got a ramair filter to try or it will be down to 38's.
The bit that hacked me off was stopping for a quick check after 15 miles and finding when I blipped the throttle a water jet spewed out the front of the radiator so it has burst. Thankfully not bad, more like a water pistol so limped the 5 miles home with no signs of overheating so no damage done.
Now will have to go back to the standard rad till I find someone to repair the large one.
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2012 18:49:13 GMT 1
Think the big rad may have been too big, you could see the temp gauge drop as the stat opened and rise as it shut. Thought once the stat opened it would stay open so may have been a problem not keeping a constant temp with the forged pistons
Put the standard rad back on and simply goes to 1/2 and stays there constant.
Got it to 95 miles today so thought it time to thrash it.
God it's brutal between 7k and 9k, it's peaked by 9.5k so no point revving any more and pulls well on wide throttle from about 4k so nice and grunty so happy.
Just seems cruel thrashing a new motor but seems nice and loose.
Think it's running too much oil through the pump as it as put a litre of oil in with the new motor and the oil light came on after 100 miles. Will need to check that.
Just need to fine tune the jetting with some plug chops and try to get it to a dyno.
Will have to wait 4 weeks for it to be perfect. Forks going to Maxton tomorrow to be sorted as it goes like stink and eyes pop out on the brakes but feels like front wheel has fell off when you hit them. Also need to up the pre load on rear as squats badly on the power.
I have noticed with me Kenny pipes,the front and back end on my Hybrid are showing their limitations !!
Front should be sorted with new internals and hoping back will be ok as got a hagon on there but my worry is that as the arm is longer and I'm using modded YPVS linkages the ratio may be wrong. If I get no joy I think I'll have to look at using an NK kit to keep the geometry right and a maxton or nitron rgv shock.
Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 15, 2012 11:59:41 GMT 1
Well been out in the garage for a couple of hours and finally sorted the spluttering.
I had fitted a ramair filter after I fitted the 40 pilots but thought it felt sightly worse but was unsure and 38 pilots didn't make any difference so went back to the yambits filter I started with then drilled the crap out of the airbox lid and wound the air screws out to 2 1/2 turns and now runs fine. Only done 3 miles but plugs now light tan and smoke at slow running has all but gone.
Only slightly annoying thing is the drone from the airbox now
2 1/2 turns seems a little strange If the pilot is waaay big then those settings are needed
On standard Kr1 pilot now and sounds a lot smoother at low revs. Will be trying moving one thing at a time, going to start with winding them back in 1/2 turn to see if it makes a difference or whether the filter was crap. Either that or I'm down to 36 pilots which I have not heard any one use.
Air screws a right pain as the rh carb screw is on the inside.
Massive difference in how smokey it is, even when cold.
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 1, 2012 20:00:21 GMT 1
After doing the engine it became apparent that even with the RGV running gear the suspension was struggling with the extra power of the engine and the brakes.
Front end felt soft and under damped and felt like front wheel had fallen off if you hit the brakes hard which is not difficult as they are vicious now the Galfer discs and sintered pads are fitted.
The rear end had been fitted using modded YPVS linkages but think the longer arm and different dog bone mount points were throwing out the geometry so got an NK racing conversion kit on the way which will mean I have to lose the centre stand but will now have the exact dimensions for the rgv shock/arm
Decided to go away from the banana arm as I have side by side pipes and the polished alloy is doing my head in trying to keep it clean so got this for it now Just waiting on new pivot bearings to arrive.
Also managed to bag an rgv shock off ebay.
Excellent condition, was removed from a near new bike that was heading for the track. From the late model so fully adjustable. Was going to buy a race shock from Nitron or Maxton but they told me the RGV shock is actually very good so will try it first. May have to get one with a height adjuster if it doesn't sit right but at £50 for the ebay one I'll try it.
Should have forks back from Maxton later so will update with pics
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 1, 2012 20:01:11 GMT 1
Forks arrived now, just need to paint the bottoms black.
They have been re valved and sprung to suit the YPVS and my weight and have had new bushes and seals done at the same time as I only intend to rebuild them once. For the same reason I replaced one of the stanchions as there were a couple of tiny pits at the very bottom and although they were no where near the swept area it's how they all start.
Also had damping adjusters fitted for some fine tuning