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Post by dusty350 on Nov 18, 2012 9:04:31 GMT 1
Hi, I'll have to dig it out and let you know.
Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 23, 2012 19:11:09 GMT 1
Hi Started collecting some basic engine parts for the rebuild; Basically enough bits to reinstall the selector drum, clutch bearing and seal, gear shaft seal, sump washer and neutral switch and "O" ring. That little lot was £60.00 . Went and got some stainless cap heads and nyloc nuts too, so I can start slowly putting it all back together. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 26, 2012 8:33:29 GMT 1
Hi, Started the engine build now. Couldn't shift the cross head screw on the end of the selector drum, so had to drill the head off the bolt; New stainless allen headed bolt has been threadlocked in as I don't expect to change it again. I got an Lc2 cable tacho drive a couple of weeks back so I can fit that along with the selector drum and gear change forks and then the gear clusters can go back in. I found the rawl bolt I used for removing the old clutch bearing. It was an M10 and fitted inside the top rim of the bearing once the inner cage and rollers were removed. Once tightened up, it grips the inner shell of the bearing so you can either pull it out or knock it out from underneath if the cases are apart. More soon Dusty
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Post by billy on Dec 25, 2012 15:08:53 GMT 1
Hey Dusty, if you havn't yet assembled the shift drum etc, then a little advice would be to lower the tips of the shift star. I did that to my LC once and I found it helps ALOT to get rid of the jamming gear lever problem that can occur on 350's. This has been a problem on both my LC engine and on my YPVS (both engines in mint condition when it comes to the gearbox area) the gear lever would start jamming and being a d**k as soon as the gearbox oil would reach the respectable age of something like.... 2 hours of running time. But I never (!) had any problems when I used my modified shift star. It shifted like butter and the gear lever never jammed or anything. Finding neutral was about as hard as before though, not much difference tbh, I didn't notice any difference. Notice the tips has been rounded off (except for the tip between 6th and 1st gear, as you never shift from 6th to 1st lol), so the detent arm doesn't have to be sprung out as much while shifting. That sprunging action causes the gear selector drum to want to jam inside the engine case (I believe it is the left side of the selector drum jamming as it doesn't have a roller bearing?), so jamming shift lever is much less prone to happen if you lower the tips of the shift star, as it puts less stress on the shifting mechanism inside the gearbox. I've felt the difference myself so I know it's true. The stock Yamaha shift star causes lots of shifting trouble as soon as the oil gets even the slightest contaminated with clutch dust, but the modified shift star eliminates these jamming problems completely. PS: I cut my shift star with a simple bench grinder and dremel, then filing and sanding the last bit to give it a smoother finish. It's no rocket science, it doesn't have to be a rediculous precision on that part, just make sure the roller can roll nicely over the tops without being damaged or anything.
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Post by dusty350 on May 3, 2013 10:56:54 GMT 1
Hi, Starting to do a few bits with this again after a long lay off. Gonna start rebuilding the engine as I have collected some parts. I will do a thread seperately on that. I got some modded footrest plates off ebay this week, polished them up a bit and fitted them yesterday; Also fitted the headlight and horns and frame infill I bought from Norbo back in December I've got some of Kenny's TSA pipes for this, plus some standard discs which I am just spraying up at the mo. Also got some Lc clocks with Kmh speedo which I am going to change for an XS 650 speedo I got cheap off ebay, so lots to do. More soon Dusty
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Post by Norbo on May 3, 2013 13:25:11 GMT 1
sio its moving along then. bit by bit and its looking good .
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Post by dusty350 on May 11, 2013 11:32:29 GMT 1
The front discs on this bike are iron PFM's which are a better disc than standard, but rust easily. I managed to find some good standard discs on ebay, cleaned them up and resprayed the carriers; I have a rear wavey disc that came in a box of bits with the bike that I may fit. The original disc thats fitted at the mo looks quite worn and may be slightly warped. I thought it had a slight offset whereas the wavey hasn't, but I think it's due to wear. Need to research that one a bit more. I have now stripped the barrels down so I can send them off along with the crank t Pjme for a rebore and crank rebuild. Hope to start the engine rebuild thread soon. Dusty
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simch
L plate rider.
Posts: 35
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Post by simch on May 12, 2013 9:48:35 GMT 1
Thats a neat way of getting the clutch release bearing out.... What size rawl bolt did you use? Agreed, that's a clever trick.
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Post by dusty350 on May 28, 2013 9:37:35 GMT 1
Hi, Rear disc now sorted. The original was badly worn and warped. I fitted the wavey disc that came in a box of spares with the bike, but wasn't sure about the look of it; I got a new Kr1s disc off ebay, and I think it looks better, so it's staying and the wavey is on ebay I am busy doing lots of refurb on engine parts at the mo, so when the crank and barrels are done - hopefully this week, I can get the engine back together pretty quickly and into the bike, so I can then fit the pipes and carbs and it will start looking like a bike again; Hopefully start an engine rebuild thread soon. Regards Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on May 31, 2013 13:21:28 GMT 1
Hi all, I have been collecting various engine parts over the last few months, and also refurbing various components ready to go back on the engine. The idea is to take as many pics as possible of the rebuild and list part numbers too so any members who have never done a rebuild themselves can get an idea of what is involved. I am certainly no expert, just a happy amateur, but this will be my third powervalve rebuild, plus I have done a couple of RD400's too. This is an F2 powervalve engine that came with the Yamasaki project bike I bought last year. It was out of the bike when I bought it, having nipped up on a ride 2 years previously. The fella I bought the bike from said he had the crank rebuilt after the seizure but then lost interest. 1 piston was missing, the other was on .25 oversize. Bores looked fairly good and standard. Engine was filthy though; First job was to completely strip the engine down, bag up all the parts in clear freezer bags which are air tight so parts left on a shelf over a long period wont rust, and get the worst of the crud off with some petrol and various cleaning brushes. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on May 31, 2013 16:25:19 GMT 1
The strip down went well until it came to the clutch retaining nut. Unbelieveably tight, and no amount of heat or pentrating fluid helped shift it. In the end, a long piece of tube on the end of my ratchet moved it but not without a couple of casualties ; First two items on the shopping list then The hub has two cracks in it if you look carefully. The other part I dread getting out is the clutch arm bearing. On the last engine I did, it took ages trying to drift it out without damaging the ally surrounding it. This time I prised out the inner cage and needle rollers, leaving the hard outer shell. I then inserted an M10 rawl bolt, and tightened it until it gripped the lip of the shell. Then from the under side, I tapped the bolt part of the rawl bolt with a hammer and drift, and the rawl bolt came out with the bearing cage attached. Really easy if you have your cases in half, and no damage to the bearing housing Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on May 31, 2013 16:39:01 GMT 1
Once the clutch could be removed, it was plain sailing. Gear lever shaft came out next; Had the usual groove where it passes through the seal, making it hard to be leak proof even with a new seal fitted. The cresent shaped retaining plate that joins the two crank case halfs together was in two halfs, so I'll need another one of those, although some say it's not needed. A couple of the cross head screws on the shift drum were a bit tight, so carefull use of an impact driver was needed; Once all the retaining screws were removed I could dismantle the selector mechanism and shift drum, marking what goes where first. The two forks on the rear rod are slightly different from each other; Everything is now out of the cases, and ready to go for vapour blasting at R.D.Cox over in Reading.
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Post by dusty350 on May 31, 2013 17:00:23 GMT 1
Thankfully, the cases were free from any damage, and Cox's did a great job as usual; It's worth mentioning that although Cox's give the cases a good rinse after the blasting process, followed by blowing out with a high pressure air line, I always give the cases another good wash out when I get them home, just to make sure there are no residues of blast media left lurking anywhere. I fit old bolts into all the threadways before blasting so as to keep the slurry out and make rinsing as easy as possible. The finish looks like it has been sprayed with silver paint. It's easy to clean and you can either leave them as they are or you can spray them with ACF50 or something like it if you wish. The cases are now ready to be built back up, but first I like to make a basic engine stand to hold the cases steady. Takes minutes to do with a few offcuts of wood, but makes it so much easier to work on the bottom end; The drain plug sits in the hole you can see, and the front piece of wood sits between the ally casting at the front of the engine stopping it moving sideways. Felt pads underneath the ply make it easy to spin it around on the worktop. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on May 31, 2013 17:14:29 GMT 1
I have an idea of how I want the finished engine to look. I leave the vapoured cases bare, and the barrels will be blasted too so they match. The head will be gloss black, the clutch casing will be gloss black as will the generator case. I have done a couple of other engines the same and I like the way they came out. The last 400e engine I built; And my other Lc Hybrid; I will polish some parts like the powervalve end caps, rather than powdercoat them this time, just to make it a bit different. Engine will remain standard, with standard PJ carbs, reeds etc, although I will fit TSA pipes so will probably have to upjet a bit. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on May 31, 2013 22:55:33 GMT 1
I started the build with a new sealing washer on the drain bolt. It helps to locate the bottom case on the engine stand, plus I always use a fair bit of gear oil when assembling the gear box so it wont leak out of the bottom; I tried, in vain, to undo the cross head screw on the selector drum. I haven't got one out succesfully yet ! I drilled the head off, then removed the shift star, and managed to get some grips on what was left of it. The effect of the drilling meant it unscrewed fairly easily; A new bearing and retaining clip were fitted with a stainless cap head screw, threadlocked in place; Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 1, 2013 9:32:48 GMT 1
So now it can all start going back together. All parts are cleaned with clean petrol before I start reassembly. The gearbox parts are coated with gear oil too. First, the selector drum slides in Next, the front selector mechanism slides in; A new circlip goes on the end of the rod. The selector drum retaing plate can now be fitted, with new stainless cap heads used rather than the old yam items. This plate also retains the front selector rod; Selector rod circlips - 93430-08036 x 2 Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 1, 2013 9:52:45 GMT 1
Now the rear selector rod and forks can slide in, noting the position of the differing forks; New circlip again on this rod. At this point, I choose to fit the selector pawl arm; This can be a bit fiddly as it is quite a strong spring. You can buy an aftermarket arm and spring called a Shiftpro, which uses a weaker spring and a wider roller with a bearing fitted. It is supposed to eliminate the problems with finding neutral that these bikes seem to suffer from. Be interesting to see if any members have fitted one. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 1, 2013 10:08:31 GMT 1
Now you can fit the adjuster bolt, nut and lock washer for the gear change shaft. The lock washer also acts as a stopper for the rear selector fork rod; At this point, I spin the engine around so I can fit the neutral cover and "o" ring; The selector drum is in the neutral gear position, and you can see the brass plunger on the end of the drum corresponds with the contact on the switch cover. I lightly grease the new o ring so it fits easily. 3 new stainless cap heads fitted; I can also fit the new gear shaft seal; Lightly greased, this seal just pushes into it's housing. Neutral cover - 1L9-82540-00 Neutral cover "O" ring - 93210-29147 Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 1, 2013 11:06:02 GMT 1
The new gear change shaft can be fitted now. I swapped the nylon spacer and spring over from the old shaft as they are in good condition. It's worth putting some tape over the splines to protect the lip of the new seal from damage as you push the new shaft through; Hopefully, no more leaks !! Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 1, 2013 16:39:33 GMT 1
Next job I did was to fit the new bearing and seal in the upper case for the clutch actuating arm. Put the bearing in the freezer for an hour before hand to make it easier to fit; I got a new spring and washer from Norbo as the old parts were rough, and I blinged up the actuating arm a bit too. This bike is going to have standard LC clocks fitted, and means that I have to fit a mehanical tacho drive into the top case. This is an easy job as the F2 cases have the castings in place for fitment. Ebay turned up a mechanical drive; New circlips to go either side of the worm drive, plus a new circlip for the plastic sprocket. The plastic sprocket has a 2R9 part number which is an Rd400 part. If you do this mod, make sure that the sprocket is not a 2R8, as this is for a 250, and the tacho will not read as acurately. 2R9 wil be marked on the sprocket face. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 2, 2013 21:36:06 GMT 1
As well as doing the bottm end, I was going to refurb the cylinder head. The head that came with the engine looked a bit worst for wear; The fella that owned the bike was supposedly a Land Rover mechanic. I can only assume that after he seized the bike, he had a go at sorting the pitting on the domes. The squish area has been damaged as you can see in the pic, and I didn't want to take any chances with it, so I got a good used head off ebay; Obviously cosmetically challenged, but no damage. So, a good wire brush, some petrol and an hour of my time got it cleaner; And a fine abrasive block cleaned up the underside; My local bike shop had some old stock of high temp gloss paint; And I thought I would go slightly different with the logo colour; Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 2, 2013 21:53:45 GMT 1
Some other parts needed some loving !; Norbo supplied a new temp sender for half the price that Yamaha wanted; And the last big expense with the head was some Legend SS head bolts; Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 3, 2013 20:30:37 GMT 1
The finished head; Dusty
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Post by fatfastroger on Jun 3, 2013 21:45:23 GMT 1
Great rebuild thread and very good photos, will be a real help when i do mine. RD Cox did a great vapour blast job, think I'll get mine done there too. So that's twice you've changed my mind this week dusty !!
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 4, 2013 7:17:58 GMT 1
Hi, Glad you find the thread usefull. Cox's are very good, I have been getting my vapour blasting done there since the 90's. If they are not too busy, they will clean your components whilst you wait. Worth giving them a call beforehand though.
Regards
Dusty
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Post by fatfastroger on Jun 4, 2013 12:27:05 GMT 1
Thanks,what pipes and carbs etc are you going to use on this build ?
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 4, 2013 14:25:00 GMT 1
Hi, The engine will be in a standard state of tune, standard reeds, airbox and F2 powerjet carbs. I will fit some 6mm reed spacers I bought from Norbo. I have some nice TSA pipes with alloy cans that were bought new by a forum member, but he sold the bike without ever fitting them, so I have those to go on which I am looking forward to !! Just waiting on my crank and barrels from PJ's now, and I can carry on with the engine.
Regards
Dusty
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Post by fatfastroger on Jun 4, 2013 14:56:42 GMT 1
Similar spec to me,just picked up some TSA pipes from Kenny on Saturday, with alloy cans, standard tune 31k carbs (though keeping an eye out for some PWKs) and was also thinking of reed spacers. Kenny said best mod to work with his pipes was a zeeltronic, but £££...
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 15, 2013 18:28:15 GMT 1
Hi, Went to Wolverhampton on Thursday to pick up my rebuilt crank and rebored barrels from PJME. Excellent workmanship as usual; The crank had to have two new inner webs as the old webs were showing signs of pitting. The barrels were bored to 1.00mm oversize; And supplied with Mitaka piston kits; So today I did a bit more. The gears went in a week or so ago; New Yamaha bearings all round. Then the next gear shaft; I use a small syringe with gear oil in to squirt around the gears and bearings once fitted to make sure it's all well lubricated. Then the crank can be put in place; I lube the crank seals before fitting them, and gently tap the lab seal with a piece of wood and a mallet to seat the crank in place. I then fit the top case and bolt it all together to make sure everything spins without binding. Then its top case odd again, clean the mating surfaces so there is no oil on them, and then I apply Threebond 1194. Top case back on, and new stainless Nylocs and stainless washers underneath; And stainless bolts on the top casing. I ground off the markings on these bolts and then polished them up; Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 15, 2013 18:36:34 GMT 1
I fitted the new output shaft seal before bolting the cases together; And my old sprocket spacer was pitted, so Granby's supplied a new one from stock; Granby's also supplied a new plate for joing the cases as the other was in two pieces in a spares box when I got the bike; So that was fitted with stainless cap heads, loctited in; Dusty
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