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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 8, 2022 10:21:50 GMT 1
Or use a Pro bolt m6 bolt as has a flanged head but 8mm socket
Steve
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Post by yamark on May 8, 2022 18:20:23 GMT 1
Those Tacho retaining screws seem to be the most trouble. Let me know if I can help mate
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 8, 2022 19:22:29 GMT 1
My thoughts on Dusty's conundrum. Not sure how deep the hole is but if you could open it up with a slight taper I think if you could put weld in to a depth of eight mm this would be sufficient for an M5 thread. The plate could probably be drilled open with a widia drill or ground open similar to what Yamark did.
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Post by donkeychomp on May 8, 2022 21:49:01 GMT 1
Dusty do you want to use my engine casing so you can get things moving along? Just fix yours when you can and I'll have that one.
Alex
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Post by urbantangleweed on May 9, 2022 6:26:37 GMT 1
How about taking the hole out to M8, filling it with a grub screw to flush with or just below surface level, fix it in with red threadlock and then drilling and tapping that in situ to M5?
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Post by dusty350 on May 9, 2022 6:58:54 GMT 1
Thanks for the suggestions and offers of helps fellas - I appreciate it Been mega busy since Friday so haven't had another look at it yet. I dont want to open the hole up further unless there are no other options. I only went to M6 as drilling out the old bolt left me no option. I dont think weld is an option unless I want to open it out more - the welder couldn't guarantee getting enough in there "as is". Once I get back to it I will look at M6 bolt options - I can turn the head down on my lathe if needs be. I'm hopeful I can open up the plate hole to M6, one way or another. That last option may now be the best option Cheers Dusty
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 9, 2022 16:51:11 GMT 1
How about aluminium solder. If used correctly it will flow into the hole. I've tried to use it a lot with a bigger fail rate than success, but when it has worked it has been good.
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Post by dusty350 on May 9, 2022 20:37:59 GMT 1
I will ask my welding guy about it. He never mentioned it as an option the other day though ? Dusty
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fozy
L plate rider.
Posts: 17
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Post by fozy on May 9, 2022 20:57:25 GMT 1
Not sure if it will have the strength but what about filling with JB Weld and retapping? Or use JB weld to bond a threadsert in
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Post by markrd250lc on May 10, 2022 16:02:56 GMT 1
I have a timesert kit in the garage somewhere , im local so i can pop it over or you to me if you need one to try , not sure what sizes i have , i will check. Mark
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Post by dusty350 on May 10, 2022 21:50:55 GMT 1
Hi I know some guys have used JB Weld with good results, but I'm not keen to be honest. Certainly not around parts spinning at many thousands rpm. And thanks for the offer Mark. I'm gonna try and drill the plate hole out to M6, and if that works, I will go with an M6 bolt I think. Not had any time on it recently, and not likely to for the near future so not desperate to sort just yet. Thanks for the offers and suggestions guys Dusty
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Post by JonW on May 12, 2022 1:09:31 GMT 1
Hi I know some guys have used JB Weld with good results, but I'm not keen to be honest. Certainly not around parts spinning at many thousands rpm. And thanks for the offer Mark. I'm gonna try and drill the plate hole out to M6, and if that works, I will go with an M6 bolt I think. Not had any time on it recently, and not likely to for the near future so not desperate to sort just yet. Thanks for the offers and suggestions guys Dusty This plate doesnt really need to be anchored with any degree of he-man torque as its not moving in use, only keeping the shaft located. But of course it needs to be present and not move once fitted. Its tehre to ally the parts to come out is all. Yam would have located it between case halves if the engine split vertically instead of horizontally etc. I think the M6 hole in the plate is the simplest way at this point Dusty, so long as the screw head is not in the way of the spinning gear it will be fine of course. The M8 plug glued in with red loctite would be my second choice, sadly tapping M5 into an M6 plug would be too difficult i fear so you d have to go out larger and each time you do that you compromise the case strength etc. Same issue with welding, its a lot of heat. FWIW Ive not had any good experience of drilling and tapping JB Weld or with that alloy solder, Im often surprised when people say they have. Maybe Ive been doing them wrong lol
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Post by urbantangleweed on May 12, 2022 6:47:11 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, Just another thought, but is there not further meat in the casting that would allow you to drill deeper with a 4.2mm drill to then tap out to M5? You could then assemble it as normal but with a longer fitting to pick up on the new M5 thread deeper in the hole?
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Post by dusty350 on May 12, 2022 6:56:33 GMT 1
Hi The top hole is blind, and the bolt that snapped off was mostly in the thread, so I had to drill most of it out. I dont want to risk breaking through the bottom of the casting as it would then be in open air behind the right hand carb. I've got a really good M6 thread cut in the hole, so as long as I can get through the plate with an M6 cobalt, after heating, that will be my plan. I can turn a bolt head down on the lathe if needs be. Dusty
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Post by urbantangleweed on May 12, 2022 6:58:23 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, Just another thought, but is there not further meat in the casting that would allow you to drill deeper with a 4.2mm drill to then tap out to M5? You could then assemble it as normal but with a longer fitting to pick up on the new M5 thread deeper in the hole? ........or maybe if not, it's perhaps possible to drill through and use a longer fixing with a nylock nut on the back (maybe also with threadlock to avert inadvertent dissasembly paranoia) or even perhaps drill through larger and bond in an M5 rivnut fixing from the rear to give you an M5 thread?
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Post by yamark on May 15, 2022 19:30:09 GMT 1
Dusty, I'm happy to drill out your retaining plate. I'll see you at Mouses next weekend
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Post by dusty350 on May 15, 2022 20:29:22 GMT 1
Cheers Mark I hope to get to Mouse's. Just depends how far I get with Hannah's flat Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on May 27, 2022 21:09:17 GMT 1
Hi There is a brief lull in my busy schedule at the moment, so had some time to consider what route I am gonna take. I do like the Fzrd as a special/hybrid build, so have started planning what I want/need to do. The engine is a separate entity at the moment, so I'm looking at the rolling chassis. I would like to do away with the Rg500 wheels and front end and go back to 3 spokes. The banana arm would have had a 17" Rgv wheel originally, but they are still expensive and fairly rare on ebay, unless you want from from Australia ! I have a Vj21 rear wheel in the shed from a previous project, and that should work ok in the 22 swingarm; 20220527_185226 by dusty miller, on Flickr It's an 18" wheel, but it's free so I will use it. I need a disc and bearings and tyre, and just bought a sprocket carrier off ebay. Probably go with a Tyga carrier and Brembo caliper to tidy up the back brake situation !! 20220423_093047 by dusty miller, on Flickr The banana arm has a couple of rub marks in the ali which I think will dress out with an abrasive pad , so that's good. Front end - I have a Gsx600f front wheel, but it wont work with the Rg forks, well not without work. So I've been looking at Gsx600f front ends on ebay - cheap compared to other stuff. Spoke design matches the rear, twin discs too I'm tempted to take a punt on some yokes to see if they'll fit - could always do a stem swap with the Rg if they dont. The Fz headstock is 10mm longer than an Lc, so a 5mm spacer under the lower bearing and a second lock ring up top may sort it anyway. We will see. The frame is probably the biggest challenge. I want to do away with the existing frame rails - they bow out for the Fizzer engine but dont need to for the smaller Lc lump, so new rails - possibly from round tube - would look and work better, and a proper side stand mount would be added. The rad could have proper mountings top and bottom and sit a little way back from the front wheel. Ali spacers would be made up instead of the awful thread bar that was on there originally. I have an old set of Lc cases that will enable parts to be fabricated whilst the 350 engine is on the bench; 20220527_185234 by dusty miller, on Flickr I would also like to fill in the holes in the frame that aren't needed. Not sure if the welder can infill and flatten back for a smooth finish ? will need to show him the frame. I could use blanking grommets, but a nice detail would be an ali plug. The space above the engine and forward of the petrol tank is crying out for an ali plate to be fitted, allowing the mounting of the coils, reg/rectifier, expansion tank etc. It would tidy other areas of the bike up, and centralise a lot of components; 20220527_185254 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20220423_094801 by dusty miller, on Flickr Need to strip it down a bit and take it to my welding guru to see what's possible Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on May 27, 2022 21:13:51 GMT 1
A bit of a conundrum! I'm sure you'll sort it out Dusty.
Alex
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Post by shandyboy on May 27, 2022 21:48:41 GMT 1
Dusty
Ive a mate who runs a bike salvage/scrap yard might have some Gsx 600 bits let me know what you need and I will call in and see him
Alan
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Post by JonW on May 28, 2022 0:24:21 GMT 1
Great thoughts Dusty.
Frame rails would transform this for sure and id think selling the RG parts would help pay for some of the rest of this.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 28, 2022 10:32:36 GMT 1
Nice to see you are getting on with it 😀
I'd be tempted to stick a ypvs motor in it so it's still an "exup" valve 😉
That with a nice set of modern gp pipes would look ace
Are the gsxf forks 41mm? May be a good option 👍
Would that not be the same as fzr yokes so an easy option
Think I have an FZR 1000 fzr yoke I could measure which ain't a million miles off Fazer 600 which are cheap as chips. Yam tended to stick with certain yoke measurements
Steve
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Post by tony2stroke on May 28, 2022 11:41:13 GMT 1
Suzuki RF600 forks are 41mm and use a 3 spoke wheel, they are also cheap.
The RF900 are 43mm and are also reasonable price, but rising these days.
May be of interest to you Steve, the GSXF600 forks go on the GT750 without too much trouble.
I believe the RF600 and the GSXF600 share many parts.
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Post by dusty350 on May 28, 2022 21:12:03 GMT 1
Cheers guys; I believe the Gsx600f forks are 41mm.I already have a front wheel, and forks and yokes seem pretty cheap compared to Rgv parts. Happy to go with rwu forks with this bike too. Thanks for the offer Al, I've got some yokes on the way so I will see if they will work first And you are right Tony, I believe the Rf600 shares a lot of parts with the Gsx, and probably the Bandit too. I had a tidy up in the shed today - long overdue - so I could get the bike in the back room and get it stripped down. Loom has been adorned with those awful red and blue crimped connectors, and some chok blocks too, but should be salvageable. The rear subframe is a lumpy old part, and has the top shock mount built into it, so the shock has to come out with the subframe. I wanted to get a better look at the swingarm and rear wheel set up. The Rg500 wheel is a 17" with a 130 rear tyre. My Vj21 wheel should fit without any hassle once I have all the parts. This is the first time I've had a good look around the swingarm conversion, and was surprised to see this; 20220528_161637 by dusty miller, on Flickr That looks like an old wheel bearing being used as a spacer behind the castellated nut ! With the nut removed, it seems it is; 20220528_171600 by dusty miller, on Flickr This sets the tone for a few fittings on the bike - whatever was to hand was used it would seem ! Looking at the bearing had me thinking it looked small. The Rgv spindle is 20mm, and this didn't look big enough ? So out came the wheel, and sure enough, the spindle measures 17mm. The chain pulls have had a 17mm id washer crudely welded on their inside face so they could actually contact the spindle; 20220528_164920 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20220528_164933 by dusty miller, on Flickr So possibly an Fzr spindle, or Rg500, or some unknown 17mm item. I'm hoping to salvage the chain pulls by carefully dremelling through the welds. I've found an Rgv spindle on ebay so have ordered that too. I've found some Rgv wheel spacers in the garage as well . The swingarm itself looks unaltered at the wheel end so I'm hoping the wheel will go in with no bother. You can now get a clear look at the rear engine mount; 20220528_161900 by dusty miller, on Flickr And the front; 20220528_161917 by dusty miller, on Flickr Some work to do there. Dusty
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Post by tony2stroke on May 28, 2022 21:22:50 GMT 1
That sure is another level of bodgery, no consideration for the power in the engine, and clearly no real mechanical knowledge, engine must have twisted and squirmed when power band came in, threaded bar is really weak.
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Post by dusty350 on May 28, 2022 21:28:46 GMT 1
Yep, the front bar has a bend in it
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Post by stusco on May 28, 2022 21:30:09 GMT 1
Gobsmacked!!!
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Post by dusty350 on May 28, 2022 21:41:22 GMT 1
It's funny, but I've found a few references on the net from the guy that built it originally, alluding to what a great build it is !! Hopefully wont take much to improve it Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on May 28, 2022 22:05:28 GMT 1
Blimey mate. Built by the legends Bodgitt and Scarper.
Alex
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 28, 2022 23:26:30 GMT 1
Oh dear 🤡🙈
Steve
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