2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Sept 16, 2020 21:25:14 GMT 1
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Sept 27, 2020 7:28:59 GMT 1
Fixed up the rear caliper with a helicoil kit. Used some red locktite on the coil threads too so hopefully it stays in place. It bolted up nice and tight so seems like it'll do the job. New belt for the stupid adjuster, just for authenticity's sake Now for the tank, following on from my last update. I bought 5 litres of acetone from a great online supplier who sells it for $32.95AUD delivered to your door next day. Can't complain about that. Also pictured: cheap ebay endoscope camera to inspect inside of tank, gaffer tape, and screws. After approximately 30 minutes of acetone soaking, the shitty old liner was well on its way to dissolving. After tipping a few more litres in, soaking for a day or two with a couple of handfuls of screws, and giving the tank a good shake every so often, this is what came out. Forbidden coffee. Gave it a bit of a rinse and this is how it looked. Liner 99% gone, all of the flaky rust and shit exposed. Time for a vinegar soak. Left this for a few days, threw even more screws in and gave it some really vigorous shaking a couple of times per day. So much so that my arms and back felt like I'd done a workout the next day. End result: And this is the horrible vinegary rusty smelling mess that came out. I swished a magnet around in it, look at the rust sticking to it! Gave it a few good washes out with hot water and soap, and then a final acetone rinse with some more screws as per Caswell's instructions in preparation for the liner. It flash rusts very quickly but this is not an issue for the Caswell product. Now onto the liner itself. This process is very messy and you only have a limited time to work on it so I haven't taken a lot of pics of the process. There's videos and tutorials online if you want more detail. If you follow the provided instructions closely though it's pretty straightforward. A few tips though: -I bought the red stuff as it looks cool, and hides the shitty rusty look inside. -Mask up any pin holes or leaks with masking tape or gaffer's tape. -Use the whole amount for an RZ tank. You won't have heaps left over, so in order to get full coverage just use the lot, especially if your tank is a bit crappy like mine. -Mask everything really really well if you care about the paint at all. This stuff gets EVERYWHERE. -Wear gloves and old clothes, and do this somewhere that you can make a little bit of mess such as on the lawn. -Everything that this stuff gets on will be sticky and horrible and near impossible to clean, so be prepared to throw out anything you use to mix or apply with. -It hardly smells at all, so leaving it inside the house to dry is fine. I expected it'd have a strong chemical or epoxy smell but it was almost nothing. -I left the tank and tins inside the house so they were at around 20 celcius, and did the process outside in about 14-15 C. This gave me a long working time of around 40 minutes before it became noticeably thicker. I then brought it inside to cure. -After about 30-40 minutes I removed the cover I'd put over the petc**k, and drained the excess. Quite a lot came out and it was still relatively viscous so I decided to tip it back into the tank and try for a bit more coverage rather than waste it (this stuff ain't cheap). After doing this and rolling it around again until it became thicker, I only had to drain a small amount out. -With some of the drained excess sealer once it had thickened up a lot, I used a wooden skewer to apply some inside the neck of the tank. Not really necessary, but mine was looking a bit rusty. Masked Draining out the excess How it looks inside. Shame about the air bubbles, but I don't think they will cause an issue. Pretty hard to avoid unless you've got a vacuum machine for epoxy. I've got it sitting inside the house drying out now, it's already hardened a lot. I'll inspect it with the endoscope camera, hopefully I managed to coat all surfaces. From what I can see with a torch though, I've at least covered all of the surfaces that were concerning me. The next step will be to clean up the outside of the tank with some body filler and paint. I'll probably just repaint the whole white section, and patch up what I can of the red paint on top.
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Post by JonW on Sept 28, 2020 0:54:48 GMT 1
Wow, a tough few arvos of work there! Fingers crossed youve saved the tank.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Sept 28, 2020 3:19:10 GMT 1
Wow, a tough few arvos of work there! Fingers crossed youve saved the tank. Sure was! Messy, smelly work too. But I think it'll pay off! I inspected inside the tank with the endoscope camera last night, and it looks like I've managed to cover pretty much every bit of the tank. The 'roof' of the tank has quite a lot more air bubbles than the rest, I wonder if that's due to it drying quicker as it sat in the sun for a little while? Not likely to cause an issue though by the looks, as it's still got complete coverage.
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Post by JonW on Sept 28, 2020 3:58:22 GMT 1
The air bubbles shouldnt be an issue so long as there is a skin over the bubble still, its only if the bubble bursts and there is a path directly to the metal that there would be an issue where rust could form and creep under the liner.
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Sept 28, 2020 7:35:13 GMT 1
nice one, this is a job which is waiting for me. im not looking forward to doing it but i suppose the hardest part is starting.
thanks for the writeup and tips.
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cnkxu1
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 392
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Post by cnkxu1 on Sept 28, 2020 11:16:19 GMT 1
Anyone know why the bubbles form? Is it a reaction with the surface, rust, contamination, heat?
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Sept 28, 2020 11:22:24 GMT 1
nice one, this is a job which is waiting for me. im not looking forward to doing it but i suppose the hardest part is starting. thanks for the writeup and tips. Yeah I was dreading it to be fair. But I figured I'm best to do it now, as if I left it to last I'd end up rushing it or doing some completely half arsed patch up job to just get the bike running! If you need any more info sing out.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Sept 28, 2020 11:24:52 GMT 1
Anyone know why the bubbles form? Is it a reaction with the surface, rust, contamination, heat? I think the majority of them come from the mixing process. When professional "epoxiers" mix up their resin, they use a vacuum machine to pull the bubbles out before applying it. I suspect some of mine may have also come from the drying process.
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cnkxu1
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 392
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Post by cnkxu1 on Sept 28, 2020 12:26:38 GMT 1
So slow and steady but fast enough to not exceed the fixing time.
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Sept 28, 2020 12:27:25 GMT 1
nice one, this is a job which is waiting for me. im not looking forward to doing it but i suppose the hardest part is starting. thanks for the writeup and tips. Yeah I was dreading it to be fair. But I figured I'm best to do it now, as if I left it to last I'd end up rushing it or doing some completely half arsed patch up job to just get the bike running! If you need any more info sing out. brilliant, thanks a million for the offer!
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Sept 28, 2020 13:04:49 GMT 1
So slow and steady but fast enough to not exceed the fixing time. Yep. The instructions kind of implied that it would start to thicken up in 10-15 minutes, but I guess being a bit colder here it took a lot longer. If I'd known this I'd have mixed it a bit slower than they suggested, which was 2 minutes.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Mar 8, 2021 23:38:01 GMT 1
Ok, I'm back! Went pretty cold on this for a while due to life, kids, work, COVID etc, but I'm picking it up again. Want to get it finished and riding!
Did some patch up jobs on the paint on the tank, polished up the paint and it's "good enough for now". Did a leakdown test on the engine, and sure enough the crank seals have a small leak which I half expected. On the positive side, most of the engine looks very clean and lots of seals have been recently replaced by the looks, so I suspect it's maybe had a rebuild not long ago.
I've put in a big order with Yamaha for most of the seals, screws, gaskets etc that I need, and will soon put in an order with Yambits for the remaining stuff (sticking with mostly OEM seals for good reason).
Once my parts arrive I'll get onto replacing the crank seals, shifter and kickstart seals, various gaskets and pipes, and will paint the engine. I'm getting excited now!
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Post by JonW on Jul 9, 2021 8:13:36 GMT 1
Hows it going Tooch?
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Oct 21, 2021 12:00:33 GMT 1
Hey all, apologies for the break in transmission!! Motivation was very low for a while due to COVID lockdowns, work, an additional child, and general life. I'm determined to get this finished now though. Picking up where I left off, it was time to tackle the engine. It was running well before I stripped the bike and had evidence of a semi recent rebuild/refresh so I wasn't wanting to go down that route for now. However it had a slight leak from the crank seals so I decided to replace them with new OEM seals. Split the cases which was much less painful than expected. Inspected everything which all seemed in reasonable condition. Gave them a clean out as there was some gunk and excess sealer from last time, and resealed with Yamabond. JB welded the broken case bit, had to do this a couple of times as it needed to be reinforced. After it was back together I gave it another pressure test with my homemade tester (ebay 'sphygmomanometer' and stethoscope). Success! It held this pressure (dropped about half a mm on that gauge, probably within the tester setup itself) over around 8-10 minutes. I'll call that good enough. Not sure why the gauge plastic fogged up like that, I think I accidentally sprayed it with brake cleaner or something. Next it was time to paint it. Gave it a good scrub and wire brushing to get rid of as much old paint and crud as possible, and then gave it several cleans with brake cleaner and then wax and grease remover. Masked up bits I didn't want to paint, and hit it with VHT engine enamel. Yes, I committed the cardinal sin of painting over the head bolts and engine bolts. I decided to do this as they all looked shitty, and I did not want to go to the considerable effort of polishing them all and trying to stop them rusting. In future if/when it comes apart for a rebuild then I'll look to replacing them all with new ones or get them all zinc coated. After painting was done, I sanded off the YPVS badging and power valve pulley cover. Bolted a few things back on and got the engine refitted into the frame. All bolted up aside from the front engine to frame mount bolts that I need to replace. Click and collect during COVID lockdown is a huge pain in the arse and a big contributor to my slowness here. This plastic cover always annoyed the crap out of me. It was dull and scratched and looked horrible. I spent a lot of time trying to sand it and polish it but just made it look worse and worse. After several wasted hours I did some googling to find a replacement, and managed to order a genuine brand new replacement from a mower shop (of all places!) for around $30 shipped. I wish I'd bothered to look earlier. The screws were completely seized up and the phillips heads rounded out instantly so I butchered them and got them out with a drill. Luckily the remainder of the screws came out cleanly and the threads were undamaged. I'm about to put in an order for the remainder of the stuff that I need (various seals that I couldn't get OEM, indicators, several bolts, hoses, gaskets, brake pads, radiator etc). And then it'll be an exciting race to get it all back together and running
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Post by JonW on Oct 21, 2021 22:42:50 GMT 1
Great to see you back on this mate!
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Oct 27, 2021 12:02:41 GMT 1
Big parts lot incoming. Should be nearly all of the remaining stuff that I need in order to get this back together. Inevitably there will be one vital thing I've forgotten and will probably hold me up for a while!
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Nov 4, 2021 12:53:37 GMT 1
Feels like Christmas! Arrived yesterday.
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Post by abar121 on Nov 4, 2021 15:25:03 GMT 1
Good work! That should keep you busy.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Nov 5, 2021 7:07:10 GMT 1
Shiny new rad. Gotta hand it to the Chinese, $80 delivered for this is pretty bloody good. Unheard of until a few years ago. I think my original radiator is still ok but it looks like shite and half of the fins are bent.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Nov 7, 2021 0:38:13 GMT 1
Epic failure today. The front sprocket nut stripped out while I was reinstalling it. It appears to just be the nut itself, the countershaft thread doesn’t look too bad. I hope it’s just the nut, or that will be the death knell for this project. Not pulling the engine apart again so soon.
Also managed to destroy my clutch pressure plate.
Kill me
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Post by JonW on Nov 7, 2021 1:17:21 GMT 1
Ahh the joys of old bikes. Most have had more than 10 DPOs and at some point were worthless so bodging was rife.
Deep breath, order the parts from the most logical or cheapest source and move on. Chances are the post on the clutch was already tweaked previously, weve probably all had at least one break before on an old bike. I know I have.
The shafts are still available if the nut isnt the issue. Sure its not fun to redo that but if needs must etc. FWIW the nut is still available but more exy than i thought as I recently bought a couple, even from abroad.
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tooch
Weekend rider
Posts: 70
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Post by tooch on Nov 21, 2021 2:05:17 GMT 1
Ok, got a new sprocket nut. I held my breath as I installed it and torqued it up...and it held. So that's good Ordered a new pressure plate, springs and bolts. $150 or so all up, not too bad. They were backordered so hopefully don't take too long to arrive. I want to try and find another YPVS controller. Mine works, but is intermittent. It sometimes makes the servo chatter when powered on, and sometimes does nothing at all. Tapping it gets it working for a while, which makes me think it has a dodgy solder joint somewhere. I went over all of the ones which looked even slightly sketchy, but it didn't really help. Anyone got a working one available?
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Post by desertrz250 on Aug 29, 2022 6:12:10 GMT 1
Tooch, this has been great to read. You've given me some motivation. Also based in WA so great to see another getting some love and work done to it. Cheers
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