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Post by Header on Sept 12, 2019 8:55:54 GMT 1
Well folks, I have just joined this forum and i have 1982 rd 350 lc i am having a few problems with the bike here is a run down the bike has had a complete engine rebuild about 300 miles ago,crank,pistons the lot, she has a set of microns on her which are mint the problem is she is only running good in first and second gear then she dies while trying to climb the rest of the gears she is running 240 main jets,standard airbox,ebc racing reeds,everything else is standard, needles in standard position. the carbs have been rebuilt,tbh every single part of the bike is like brand new,the previous owner never rode the bike after the restoration . so any info would be very helpful folks, also fitted new progressive springs and new seals but they already leaking and the tubes seem perfect ?, bought the seals here and the springs. i am not looking for speed here i just want the bike running smooth,i was told to come up 2 sizes for on the jets to balance out the microns ?,which i have done, i did notice since i came up on the jets she dont start first kick takes 4 or 5 attempts where before on 220 jets first kick she was away,thanks for reading folks
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 12, 2019 9:02:51 GMT 1
Were the brass balls removed and the air circuit cleaned during the carb rebuild? If not, its worth doing to elminate that. Plenty of threads on here about how to do that, its not too difficult.
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Post by rigga on Sept 12, 2019 9:12:08 GMT 1
Which carbs are fitted, I suspect later 01 versions, but after all this time, you never know. Jetting specs are different between the versions, as above even though the carbs seem clean, they have hidden passages which are a bugger to get all the crap out many a rough running bike has been cured by removing the brass balls and cleaning behind. Also small can microns might need bigger mains than 240, and also run better with the snorkel removed from the air box.
Balls out first tho.
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Post by Header on Sept 12, 2019 11:11:53 GMT 1
yes 01 carbs will look in to ur info lads fair play to ye
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Post by muttsnuts on Sept 12, 2019 13:39:33 GMT 1
so long as the carbs are defo 4L0-01 and not messed with, then I'd drop back to the 220 stock jets, check that the pilots are 22.5, make sure the air filter is clean and not over oiled, and while you have the carbs off make sure that you put the right float bowl back on the right carb (would explain the crap starting) - there is a choke side bowl and a non choke side one, be sure you have them the right way round
If its still not right then I'd be checking the stator and also things like timing, compression pressures etc
If it works fine back on the stock 220 jetting then I'd go one size up to a 230 main and see what it does, make sure the needle is left in mid clip position (3)
if that doesn't sort it, then I'd be getting it on a dyno for a full diagnostics as it could be a number of other causes inclduing crank seals etc
Whereabouts are you as somebody on here might live near you who are experienced in tracking faults like this
HTH
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Post by Header on Sept 12, 2019 16:02:59 GMT 1
carbs are 4LO-01 with complete rebuild kit,main jets are 240 at present have 250 and 260 on stand by,standard airbox and new filter,will check the pilots later, 300 miles on new build motor float bowls in correct position,with 220 jets starts first kick cold or warm, needle is in mid position,im in wexford ireland so no where near a dyno,will check the timing, but as i said she starts perfect revs perfect it seems to be an issue with air fuel i think, there is EBC racing reeds fitted,all new rubbers,plugs,leads,coils,the whole bike is literally new mate
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 12, 2019 16:10:26 GMT 1
Hopefully you didn't use a keyster kit 😫
Steve
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Post by donkeychomp on Sept 12, 2019 22:16:18 GMT 1
300 miles so far. Was she running okay for that period of time?
Alex
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Post by Header on Sept 13, 2019 8:11:46 GMT 1
300 miles so far. Was she running okay for that period of time? Alex thanks for reply Alex,she did never run right perfect in 1st 2nd and most of 3rd then it just dies when u open throttle,
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Post by Header on Sept 13, 2019 8:12:40 GMT 1
Hopefully you didn't use a keyster kit 😫 Stevethanks for reply mate i dont understand keyster kit, im new to the 2 strokes
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Post by Header on Sept 13, 2019 8:14:09 GMT 1
Hopefully you didn't use a keyster kit 😫 Steve i googled it mate i dont think it was, all parts were bought thru here from rd crazy
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Sept 13, 2019 8:23:30 GMT 1
Hopefully you didn't use a keyster kit 😫 Stevethanks for reply mate i dont understand keyster kit, im new to the 2 strokes They are a brand of carb rebuild kit Usually crap. Norbo won't sell them Steve
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Post by Header on Sept 13, 2019 9:00:57 GMT 1
They are a brand of carb rebuild kit Usually crap. Norbo won't sell them Steve all parts were bought through Norbo the last owner said
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 13, 2019 9:19:20 GMT 1
My money is still on the balls. As mutts says start again, take carbs off, set back to standard settings, clean the air circuit whilst off. Make sure you balance the carbs when refitting. Check air side is clear and clean. Put in new plugs. Check oil pump not over oiling. And see how that runs before you up the main jets. At least you will eliminate if it's carbs before you look elsewhere.
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Post by Header on Sept 13, 2019 9:56:29 GMT 1
My money is still on the balls. As mutts says start again, take carbs off, set back to standard settings, clean the air circuit whilst off. Make sure you balance the carbs when refitting. Check air side is clear and clean. Put in new plugs. Check oil pump not over oiling. And see how that runs before you up the main jets. At least you will eliminate if it's carbs before you look elsewhere. well mate oil pump is running a little rich i was told to do so while running in i will strip the carbs again and i also have a full rebuild kit i can throw in to it,how do u remove the balls and do i need to buy more ?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 13, 2019 11:53:15 GMT 1
A little over oiling is ok during run in, just make sure its not so much that is affecting the mixture.
Do a search on here and you will find a loy of threads re removing the balls and cleaning the air circuit.
Essentially you centre pop, then drill the 4.5mm brass balls at 6 o'clock position on air intake side of carb. I use a 2mm drill and drll about 2-3 mmm deep. I then use the shank end of the drill bit to insert into the drilled hole and with a bit of jiggling you can pop out the brass ball to expose the air correction circuit. You need to clean this passgae out. It passes through to the middle of the carb. Sometimes its easier to remove the emulsion tube to do it. Spray WD 40 through the cleaned hole to check its clear.
If the brass ball is in good condition, you could pop it back in witha bit of loctite. don't overdo the loctite or you will block the hole you just cleared! If not you need to buy a couple of 4.5mm barss balls. Look on ebay. If stuck give me a shout and I will post you 2.
Some people tap the 4.5mm hole to pop in a short M5 grub screw to make future removal easier.
Good luck, Shaun
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Post by donkeychomp on Sept 13, 2019 22:51:17 GMT 1
I think Shaun is right as I had the same issues when I was 18 on an LC. Sadly never got around to sorting it as some bugger stole the bike that night!
Alex
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Post by reedpete on Sept 14, 2019 16:59:54 GMT 1
My money is on the cdi not the carbs...
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Post by reedpete on Sept 14, 2019 17:01:20 GMT 1
High speed stator winding to be specific
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Post by Header on Sept 23, 2019 8:49:59 GMT 1
well folks we are up and running to as close as we can, set timing,turned down oil pump to standard,cleaned carbs again, just have to keep her up in revs for it to pull on ,i think its my lack of exp was the main issue,people like myself need to understand the way to ride a 2 stroke,its a different animal than the 4 stroke which will pull low down in revs the 2 stroke needs the revs to pull ,thanks again folks for ur help here,
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Post by veg on Sept 23, 2019 9:17:06 GMT 1
Whilst they are fairly flexible for the cc they do need pinning to get going, and you have a definite power band , if you have spannies that can exacerbate the problem, you kind of need to ride it like it is stolen to get them going. If it persists the place to go is daves Muttsnutts he is the guru and has a dyno for set up he’s already given you about £200 worth of advice 😁. Was the previous owner a member on here? Is the rebuild listed on here that may also help? Pics are always a favourite. Enjoy the bike
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Post by Header on Sept 23, 2019 11:12:30 GMT 1
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Post by veg on Sept 23, 2019 11:23:45 GMT 1
The link to the pic worked, would need to do a search to see if the build was listed on here.
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Post by Header on Sept 23, 2019 11:24:45 GMT 1
The link to the pic worked, would need to do a search to see if the build was listed on here. ahh great willo load the rest now then even the reg thanks mate
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Post by Header on Sept 23, 2019 11:41:22 GMT 1
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Post by Header on Sept 23, 2019 11:42:24 GMT 1
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Post by Header on Sept 23, 2019 11:42:56 GMT 1
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Post by Header on Sept 23, 2019 11:43:38 GMT 1
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Post by Header on Sept 23, 2019 11:44:18 GMT 1
finally managed to upload folks thanks again
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Sept 23, 2019 11:50:14 GMT 1
Glad you got it sorted and nice pics. Enjoy riding it now you know you have to open it up to get the benefit.
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