|
251LC
Oct 1, 2019 1:16:09 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 1, 2019 1:16:09 GMT 1
With the swing arm on the bench it was time to do a little strip down. In the rush to get to the powder coaters the swinger collar and bushes were left in and had to now come out. A task made less easy as I had to be careful of the powder coating of course, but nothing that couldn’t be handled. The collar simply slid out which was a good sign and I moved onto the bushes using strategic bashing and gentle persuasion, and they came out leaving the powdercoat intact. Phew! Next it was on to the build up and for that I’d bought a Yambits kit. This is their upgraded kit with needle roller bearings, new collar, end plates and caps. A quite comprehensive kit but I know some might not be happy with their use of un-caged needle bearings. What I will say is that fitting this kit wasn’t particularly easy. It uses two needle roller bearings each side; one 16mm wide and one 20 or so. I get why they did this (to get the right length of bearing surface like the old bush) but it’s annoying to have to try and get these in without ruining the fragile looking cages as you draw or pound them in. In reality they are quite sturdy items but they a very tight fit in the swing arm which leads to the worry. I actually broke the 8mm threaded bar I was using to draw them in twice doing one side and ended up using a hammer and socket to complete the task. I'm pleased to say that the cages survived that with no problems but I did wonder at times if that would be the case. It’s also worth noting that the cages need to fitted to the correct depths as there is an end plate to go on as well and you don’t really want to be trying to push the two cages with the end plate, much better to site he first bearing, then the second and then the end just fits on. The whole of the collar is hardened (unlike the photo) so actually if you push the bearings in a mm or two too far it wouldn't be the end of the world. While I don't so much mind that they used uncaged bearings, they do make this job a PITA to do as all the needles either need to be removed first or they will fall out when fitting and then you must carefully use your fingers to reseat the needles afterwards. Placing the multiple tiny needles deep into the swing arm while holding everything in with grease is time consuming and fiddly to do, there are a lot of needles in these 4 bearings - probably 20 in each, so 80 needles! With the needles all back in and checked that they all roll nicely in the cages, proving they weren’t damaged, I carefully installed the new collar and again tested the fit by rotating and side to side. It felt really smooth and also very ‘planted’ when using a twisting movement which made this seem worth it as with the standard bushes that isn’t always the case. The suppled end plate caps went on and they fit ok but they stand proud of the swingarm itself which is strange. I also noticed that the new end caps (seals really) in the kit are baggy over the swinger even with the powder coating, they should be a tight fit but are approx 1mm too large on the ID of the seal. I checked my spares and found some originals and could see why they differ to what's been provided for the simple reason the OEMs will not fit when using the end bushes Yambits provide due to their extra 1mm of the OD. Why did Yambits do this? C'mon Yambits, this shouldn't have been an issue. That part is CNC made I expect and should be correct. I'll grind the end plate/bushes parts down, but thats a lot of messing about just to fit the OEM end caps in order to get seals that work. Why on earth would anyone want brand new seals that don't actually contact the swingarm? So is this a good kit? Im in two minds. I do like the feeling of the 'bearing' it forms for the swing arm. It's a solid mounting, yet also moves freely in the plane you want. I do also think it's a more modern approach than the old hangover from the 70's bushes setup, but I can understand that it would be easy to mess up the install and render some of the bearings, and thus the whole kit, useless. Also as there is no grease nipple on the swingarm (like the YPVS has), there is no way to lube the bearing without stripping the swingarm off the bike and pulling the needles out. I did consider drilling and fitting a grease nipple, although how well that would have worked with the minimal gap between the collar and the needles and the fact each side has two bearings and a cap would be a concern, I suspect you might lube one side well but not the other etc. So, not as well as dismantling and re-greasing which is the right way to do this. While that's not much fun to do, it isn't impossible to add it to the maintenance schedule and it would be satisfying to do. And of course there is a set of end cap seals that dont fit due to another part of the kit being slightly too big for no apparent reason. I quickly tapped out the chain guard threads so now the swing arm was ready to fit... But I needed to fit the mudguard first and that meant making up a plate to hold the 51L-50 CDI in the place where the 4L0 CDI lived... A job that for some reason I'd put off the past few weeks. Time to get the steel and welder out...
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 1, 2019 22:17:12 GMT 1
Post by donkeychomp on Oct 1, 2019 22:17:12 GMT 1
So Yampants then?
Apart from the niggles looks like you did a good job but not being able to grease it seems a bit odd for a newer 'improved' design.
Alex
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 1, 2019 23:51:45 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 1, 2019 23:51:45 GMT 1
The improved design is all about the location of the swingarm collar, ie better tolerances and smoother movement, I dont think anyone thought about maintenance it's just that I did I guess lol.
Well Im in two minds if its pants or not really. It's not expensive for what you get but it's also not brilliant 'as a kit'. They could improve the details for sure. The seal end caps being too big is just silly as they wont keep any dirt out etc. The fact its' a bugger to fit is par for the course with bearings like this etc.
The not being able to grease it is no different to how lots of needle rollers are in linkages and swingarms from this era, it just means that you need to pull the bike apart to do that job, which is how it should be done really if any of us are honest. Squirting grease in nipples isnt always the fix we hope it will be as grease follows the path of least resistance etc. Plus most people over the years didnt even bother to do that work, so perhaps no one will ever service these, but I reckon the chances are that these days we'll look after the bearings better than we did in the old days and we do less miles etc.
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 2, 2019 4:40:36 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 2, 2019 4:40:36 GMT 1
As I mentioned above I wasn’t happy with the dust cap/seals that Yambits provided. They were too big for the LC’s swingarm and as the seal lips didnt touch the swingarm all the way round they were not going to do a good job of keeping dust, dirt and water the bearings. I found some good condition OEMs but they didn’t fit over the end plates/bushes Yambits provided as the OD on these was larger than the swingarm. I can only think that’s so you can get them off easily, but some gentle persuasion with a blade and they would part company with the swingarm, or they could be pulled out by moving the collar inwards and using a hooked puller. So, I'm at a real loss as to why Yambits supplied these oversize. They have an OD of 35.76 and should be 34.20 for my powdercoated arm, probably 34mm is correct for the original steel tube used in these. I ground down the end plates so that the OEM end cap/seals fitted. Everything went back together and I also added a shim as the swingarm had a little too much side to side movement at the pin. We are on our way to having a roller!
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 3, 2019 0:00:33 GMT 1
Post by donkeychomp on Oct 3, 2019 0:00:33 GMT 1
Good work again but something you shouldn't have had to do...
Alex
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 3, 2019 0:47:11 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 3, 2019 0:47:11 GMT 1
Good work again but something you shouldn't have had to do... Alex Totally agree Alex. It's done now tho and fits much better so I'm happy, but perhaps not something everyone would have the ability to solution and fix etc.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Oct 3, 2019 1:07:30 GMT 1
With a view to making the bike a roller I needed to fit the rear mud guards. To do this I needed to fit the CDI so I made bracket to fit it where the original LC CDI lived, figuring I'd use that space since space is at a premium on an LC and I still had to find a home for the PV controller. I could have drilled through the lower rear guard, but these are not easy to come by and this was a pretty nice one, so I wanted to do it properly so made a plate with captive nuts for the 51L-50 CDI and holes to mount the plate to the mud guard. A layer of foam was added to protect the CDI from vibes, but to be honest these are not mounted in any kind of luxury on a YPVS, and even more loosely tacked on bikes like the 500 so I don’t think it’s an issue really. I then fitted the guards with rezinc’d bolts, adding the reflector with one of Norbo's brackets. The reflector is very similar to OEM and was off a cycle tool bag that I had in the mid 80s, so its period correct lol. The only issue I found was that the guard is rounded and the bracket is flat so when I fitted the 2nd rivet the paint cracked on the bracket. I can repaint, powder or zinc it, but a bit disappointed that now it’s in place I have to take it off and redo it. While I love using restored parts, there is nothing quite like brand new! I got the joy of unboxing the nice new YSS shock and used Norbo's stainless steel fixings for fitting it. I bought those many years ago now, so it was nice to finally get to use them. The new wheel bearings went in and I found a better brake lining tell tale in my zinc plating boxes so fitted that to the brake and gathered all the spacers and fixings for the rear wheel. Before it went in I added the re-painted brake bar and rezinc’d brake rod which were fitted with rezinc’d fixings. On went the chain guard before the rear wheel went in.... And... Wahoo we have a roller! This was a bit of a struggle as right away I noticed that my center stand is baggy and the rear wheel is on the ground when the bike is resting on this stand. Either the stand itself has deformed on the tops or the places the stand rests against has bent on the frame rail etc. I will say that none of those things looks to have happened, so is it just that the YSS being set about 5mm longer than it’s shortest setting is pushing the wheel down this much? My only other experience with using YSS has been on other bikes or on my 421 which has the RGV rear arm and I had no issue with that when fitted. Hmm, any thoughts YSS-to-LC fitters? I quite like the idea of raising the back a little on this bike so since the center stand is painted and not powdercoated and is already chipping Ive decided that I’ll work out the height that needs to be added and then weld that on before powdercoating it properly. I will check what the bike is like on the side stand as if it leans too far over its a shock issue, but if it stands straight enough then it's an issue with the stand. I lowered the lift and went for a celebratory drink of water (it was 30deg in my garage today) and when I came back I noticed this. It seems that my bike lift has became incontinent... Apparently it’s lost all its fluid and is now seized in the down position. The puddle doesn’t look much but obviously a seal has let go somewhere. Good timing I guess as the bike will at least roll off the lfit now so I can upend it and work on it. So, play might be stopped until I fix this...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
251LC
Oct 3, 2019 10:42:49 GMT 1
Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2019 10:42:49 GMT 1
hi Jon
Looking real nice indeed, that swingarm is real different to the ypvs eh
I won't be buying YB's end caps for mine
Big favour, could you please send me a couple of pics of how you put the wiring on the Dynatech, JR's brochure is sadly lacking on these
All I got were black and white and the really vital ones for the wiring were postage stamp size
Many thanks
Howard
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 3, 2019 11:26:43 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 3, 2019 11:26:43 GMT 1
Yes very different bikes Howard.
The Dynatek has a small lump by one of the terminals, this is for the orange wire, might even have an orange spot on it, mine did. The other is the black of course. HTH.
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 3, 2019 22:41:20 GMT 1
Post by donkeychomp on Oct 3, 2019 22:41:20 GMT 1
Do you need a new round reflector? I have a couple, could bung one in the post to you.
Alex
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 4, 2019 1:30:41 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 4, 2019 1:30:41 GMT 1
Do you need a new round reflector? I have a couple, could bung one in the post to you. Alex Very kind of you to offer Alex, tho I do need to source one each for my F1 and F2 and I see Yamaha still list them so dont want to raid your stock if youre using it of course. Interestingly they used the same reflector right though the LC range, and probably for years before of course. If it aint broke... etc. lol
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 4, 2019 2:57:42 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 4, 2019 2:57:42 GMT 1
Progress was obviously halted to repair the lift... Getting everything off it and flipping it onto its side allowed me to strip the hydraulic cylinder out from the underside so I could see what the problem was. I quickly worked my way back and say that it was caused by this bolt, which is the limit stop for the lift lever: I wondered why the arm had a ‘stop’, now we know... So, this bolt had backed out, allowing the lever lift too high. When it does that, the arm on the other end of the bar that acts on the plunger can move up and away from the end of the plunger, allowing the plunger to come out of its bore as it is spring loaded with no real stop. I guess friction could also have somehow pulled it out a bit as well, but there is no physical connection between the pedal lever arm and the plunger, so I can only assume the spring pushed it out, helped with the pressure when lowering the lift. Once the plunger had popped out, it had oriented itself at an angle against the edge of the bore hole and would not go back in, this was the seizure I could feel in the pedal. Luckily I hadn’t gone mad jumping up and down on the pedal and the plunger piston and the seal were both fine, tho a bit dirty from living so close to the ground the past few years. I removed the cylinder and gave it a bit of a clean up and hit youtube to see how to refill it with oil, gotta love the modern world! Zipped out to buy oil and used the big syringe that I employ for fork oil to get it into the unit. It took about 200ml to top it up as it’s a pretty fat cylinder. The problem I now had is that it’s not easy to cycle the cylinder without it being fitted to the lift, that’s why it has big levers you operate with your feet. You need to do this to get the air out of the system... and then you can’t top up the cylinder as the deck of the lift is in the way as it covers the cylinder and hence the top-up/bleed holes. You can’t refill it with oil when the cylinder is in use as it will overfill the system as it’s using some of its oil to push out the piston. I guess you must have to remove the lift’s deck or jack the lift up and support it, probably using the locking holes with the piece of pipe like you would in normal use. This would allow you to remove one end of the cylinder, compress it (I doubt that will be easy lol) and then lay it horizontal for topping up. Pumping it up again for reattachment after. In the end I decided to worry about topping up later and just stuck it back into the lift framework from underneath to check it worked. lol To avoid the plunger issue happening again I adopted a belt n braces approach. I blue theadlocked the limit stop bolt in the correct place (I couldn’t find a nut for it and blue threadlock will allow me to adjust it later if I had to remove the cylinder again) and also put a cable tie around the plunger area so that this plunger cannot lift out of its bore. I was able to fit this so it didn’t interfere with any of the workings of the cylinder although I’m sure other people might question the look of the cable ties around the unit, but they are just there to ensure that the limiting strap remains in place. These fixes will ensure this problem won’t happen again. The good news is that the lift worked first time like a charm. In fact it’s much better with the new oil in it than it was. I’m thinking it may well have been weeping for a while, or that the lift arrived low on oil – something you read about a lot in the reviews of Chinese jacks and lifts when they arrive. In the youtube vids everyone comments how much faster their jacks lifted after topping up with oil and bleeding the air out. I can confirm mine is the same. I did attempt to purge the air from the system by pushing against the rubber bung after a few up/down cycles and it farted like a racehorse. Cool. Keeping this about the bike build, one upside of this was that the 51LC is now on the ground so I could test a few things: 1, While it does lean over a bit, it’s not terrible on it’s side stand. This leads me to think it’s the center stand that needs a little help. People used to talk about adding pound coins on top, obviously they meant this tongue in cheek as you’d struggle to weld the old round pound onto each top, tho as we know there were that many fakes that were steel you probably could have lol. 2, The suspension. With the YSS rear (set to what it came with from the factory) and progressive springs and Goki Air Caps up front (set to 7.5psi) the suspension feels very planted indeed. interesting. Defo doesn’t feel like my resto LC with Progressive springs and and old OEM shock in it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
251LC
Oct 4, 2019 5:05:21 GMT 1
Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2019 5:05:21 GMT 1
Hi Jon
It was more what wire went where connecting the coil to the electrical system on the ypvs
The pictures of how the jumper loom connects to where the old coil connected are black and white and really small in size
So you are now getting into hydraulics as well as bikes, not a bad gig
Howard
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 4, 2019 8:59:37 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 4, 2019 8:59:37 GMT 1
Hi Jon It was more what wire went where connecting the coil to the electrical system on the ypvs The pictures of how the jumper loom connects to where the old coil connected are black and white and really small in size Howard Hmm... im not sure what wiring youre using but you take it from the old coil connection, its orange and black on the LCs and certainly the early RZs. Its just a two prong connector.... put up a pic of your instructions and loom and maybe even be best to start a new thread about it in case im missing the point perhaps, but you just use the OEM connection on the loom, its as simple as that. :/ Hi Jon So you are now getting into hydraulics as well as bikes, not a bad gig Howard The only real thing I know about hydraulics is the joke about the Giraffe and the JCB, one having hydraulics, the other having high boll... I'll get me coat
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 8, 2019 7:41:38 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 8, 2019 7:41:38 GMT 1
Been working on another little project (some garage art) but did manage to finally find this lil beauty: Why get excited about a gasket? well only ADM and JDM got the removable silencers with gasketed removable baffles. It took me almost 2 years to find the second one... long NLA :/
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 11, 2019 3:40:00 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 11, 2019 3:40:00 GMT 1
And so the engine build starts... With....Er, with the clutch cover! Haha... Why start where normal people start?! Lol. I just watched a video where the guy started his car engine rebuild by doing up his transmission. His thought process was that once the engine was done he would want to get it in the car and running and didn’t want to rush the gearbox or have to have it slow him down on the project. Interesting, if flawed, logic. I thought I’d give it a go... This is the same old smashed, rashed and trashed cover that I cleaned up, had welded, cut out the clutch window hole and then powder coated a while back. As usual after blasting and coating, I started with cleaning out the threads and pulled out a bunch of the parts that go on these. It’s a lot of parts! The best of my OEM water pumps got a gentle (don’t want to trash the hardening) clean up to dress the shaft surface back a little and was fitted with new seal and bearing and new gear wheel, pin and other fixings. The sealing of water pump covers had never been an issue for me over the years until I did the resto LC last year and since then I’ve developed a new go to kit to mitigate any issues with old covers that have led a life... And as this one sure led at least one previous life I thought I’d make use of it again. Much easier to tighten bolts instead of machine screws clamping a cleaned and rezinc’d cover onto a brand new gasket that’s been sealed to the case with some Threebond 1211. Sadly the aftermarket gaskets tend to be oversized and ugly, it’s not hard to cut a gasket to the right size now is it? Well apparently it is... Cheap = inaccurate lol. I could trim it back, but it’ll be under a cover so no real need. Next I added a beautifully serviced oil pump from Arrow-the-pump-god with all new fixings including the seal and tiny bush/washer between the shaft and the pump and even a new pipe holder rubber bush. In the pic you can see that it also got a new dipstick with o’ring and I added the new kickstart seal to complete it. Lastly I fitted Jon’s (Cheers mate!) Lexan clutch window kit which fitted a treat. I noticed from the postmark on the packet that I bought this in 2016, how time flies! I used up an old stainless tuning fork cover thingy I bought almost 10 years back (from Norbo I think?). Considering what I started with this is a world apart from something that really was just fit for the bin. Ok, it took a lot of work and a bunch of money spent on parts, but I’m very happy with what’s become of it. Some mouthy kid might suggest my generation doesn’t care about the planet but I’m offsetting my 2 stroke fumes by restoring as many parts as I can, I’m sure a Millennial would just have chucked it in the recycling.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
251LC
Oct 11, 2019 6:15:09 GMT 1
Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2019 6:15:09 GMT 1
Just get a scalpel to clean up that gasket and non-one will know the difference
Just being picky lol
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 11, 2019 7:06:02 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 11, 2019 7:06:02 GMT 1
haha. Ive just ordered a cover... but now you all know what lurks under there, its not just me... Can we all live with it....?!?!?! Howard's a 'no' for sure... lol
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 11, 2019 22:35:38 GMT 1
JonW likes this
Post by donkeychomp on Oct 11, 2019 22:35:38 GMT 1
I do like those clear clutch cases. Wow try saying that after a few bevvies lol.
Alex
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 12, 2019 0:04:45 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 12, 2019 0:04:45 GMT 1
They do look nice and Ive never had one so Im enjoying having one finally. I defo enjoyed bringing this dead clutch cover back from the dead and using it for this. Its night n day to what it was, always good.
To be honest I think Id rather not have the Yamaha tuning forks covering the window, but that plate is about 2mm thick so acts as a nice solid washer to spread the load of the bolts, helping avoid cracking etc.
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 14, 2019 0:16:42 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 14, 2019 0:16:42 GMT 1
Next up I moved onto the cleaned, painted upper case and tapped the threads and fitted the uprated clutch actuator bearing and new seal and found a rezinc’d stud to replace the missing one. It must have come out like a bolt, with the nut attached. I came across the breather and fitted that as well, may as well have it in there now I’d found it in my engine parts drawer. I also test fitted the re-zincd clutch actuator arm and as usual it was tight due to the zinc so needed a little of the zinc sanding back for clearance. I needed to find some tacho gears as this is a 1XH engine (1986/7) so didn’t come with this drive, though of course it can be retro fitted. Looking through my spares I got lucky but this was my last set of these gears and were robbed from my LC2, which is my next build. I placed a WTB ad on the forum to replace them. At this point I’d also been right through my engine spares and looked out all the other parts for the top case like the clamps for the oil pipes, clutch cable, clutch actuator and drain hoses. With all those parts found and bagged, the top case was put away next to the clutch and flywheel covers, ready for fitting later.
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 18, 2019 0:50:35 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 18, 2019 0:50:35 GMT 1
And then onto the main event, the lower case was cleaned up and painted (I wanted an all black engine) and as ever all the threads were cleaned out as I’d much rather find and issue with a case side screw thread now than later (which I did with my 421) and have to drill it out and helicoil over a fully built clutch & pumps etc. I fitted the extra long shift shaft bush and then bolted it to my engine stand which was made years ago from an old MX ‘stamp on’ lift, and we’re away! Selector drum and forks in along with and brand new shift and new neutral switch as I had one in my spares... plus the obligatory gentle tap to each of the alloy plugs as I’ve had one come loose and fall out out before. A good transmission was located in my engine spares boxes and fitted with uprated bearings from my stash. These are the last of the sets I had from the TSS and I’ve found them to be very smooth as they were all quality bearings, many being SKF etc. A mate and I bought a bunch of these as partial sets when they closed down and the only one we didn’t have was the LH output shaft next to the sprocket so I ordered some from my local bearing shop who I buy quite a few seals and bearings from, its a BL305 NR if anyone wanted to know what they were. I reckon this bearing takes quite a strain being the one that holds the chain to the rear wheel. As standard its a big bearing and while my 250 isn’t a big power engine, there is no reason not to over spec this one; I figure if I ‘over build’ this transmission I can always fit any top end I like later etc. I found an unchipped Idler gear in my stash, this lack of chipping on the edge usually means it’s not been flapping about much and the inner bearing is ok. I fitted this with new fixings as their lack of wear also helps to give it a chance not to wobble and clack against the clutch gear. I believe the transmission, idler and the forks/selector all came from a low mileage engine actually, always nice to know when you are building a bike that you know you’re going to rev and bang up ‘n down through the gears as 250s demand that kind of riding. (at the mo its got the old bearing still in place in the pics) To put all these parts in place I’ve been using a case screw kit as made up by a mate, he did a bunch of these with socket (allen) headed bolts and was going to sell them as a kit but never did. I do wish that he did sell ‘em, the Yam machine screws are horrible to get out, These look and feel like you might have more of a chance down the track. So, I’m just waiting for a call from the bearing shop and this can go together...
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Oct 25, 2019 3:40:07 GMT 1
My new heavy load output bearings finally arrived. Here is the new unit compared to the OEM verison. More balls... Very manly lol So this is now a fully upgraded 'box with brand new uprated bearings all round. Nice. With the bearing fitted and the cases given a final clean with a blade and some wax and grease remover, in went the crank and I buttoned down the cases with some 1211 and the rezincd fixings plus fitting the clutch actuator arm. As they say in films 'Hot damn!'. Doesn't it look nice... just like a new one I will have a go at sealing the primary gear woodruff key area, although I'm never convinced it's a leak spot as Ive had no issues with it before, but hey its 2 mins of grabbing the 1211 and doing it. Silly not to...
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 25, 2019 23:14:20 GMT 1
JonW likes this
Post by oldbritguy on Oct 25, 2019 23:14:20 GMT 1
Lovin' the build jonw. Attention to detail is superb and there is nothing better than fixing lots of newly refurbed and nos parts into a fresh rebuilt motor, with superb pics too. Keep em coming John
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 26, 2019 0:24:08 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 26, 2019 0:24:08 GMT 1
Thanks John. Totally agree, the build up is so much more satisfying when you've put the work into refurbing and sourcing the new bits previously. I keep finding things that missing... if that even makes sense... gotta love English lol. But somehow I still manage to push on through and keep going. more pics and build coming soon...
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Oct 26, 2019 0:53:31 GMT 1
Time to go a bit further and get that built clutch cover on... This meant building up the clutch using my powdercoated pressure plate. Someone on another forum said it would spin pink, ahh pure STI! (for those who know about Subarus lol). I actually used a clutch kit I bought a few years back when the Chinese sellers were taking silly offers on ebay. I bought a few bits and bobs like rad hoses, mirrors and this clutch kit all for silly money. A gamble but hey why not?! Many of the parts we buy from our suppliers come from the same sources and its not rocket science to consider they might be the same and not have the middle man’s uplift. What I found was that all of these items were of equal quality to the parts I had bought previously from other online sellers at much more expensive prices. This was a bit galling but proved my point. Of course only time will tell if these parts are actually any good, but let’s put things into perspective; this kit with new wide (ie FZ750 etc sized) frictions and steels plus heavy duty springs cost under US$20 and looks identical the kit I paid way over $100 for a few years back. Food for thought. I’ll report back if its dies after 20mins of use lol. I did fit the clutch with 3 Barnett heavy duty springs and 3 brand new OEMs. FWIW The not cheap Barnett springs look and feel identical to ones in the Chinese kit. hmm... I only used the Barnett's as I already had the mixed set as spares from my 421 and didnt have a full set of OEMs. An easy retro fit tho if i feel the need when i order some. In the pic you can also see the Wicked pancake bearing. I’ve had no issue with fitting these before but it was about 40DegC in my garage and my patience was short so I gave up after a few goes with this one as I couldn’t get the adjustment I wanted and was sick of fiddling. It’s not like this bike has the power to need it really so ive bumped its use to my F2 hybrid instead and fitted the OEM unit. If you ever wanted any advice on doing an engine... Always fit a new one of these O rings... It’ll save a bunch of issues later and isn’t expensive. I did have small issue of a missing dowel that sites the cover, but pulled one off another cover in end thought getting the fit I wanted proved hard. These covers (this one especially if you recall!) and dowels have had a life or seven... And then it was on! Looks very smart I think with its new oil/water pump cover as well.
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 26, 2019 8:30:56 GMT 1
JonW likes this
Post by yamark on Oct 26, 2019 8:30:56 GMT 1
Great work Jon. Your photo's, explanations and build is top draw.
Following with interest
Cheers, Mark
|
|
|
251LC
Oct 26, 2019 13:10:53 GMT 1
Post by JonW on Oct 26, 2019 13:10:53 GMT 1
Thanks for the kind words Mark, very much appreciated. I'm glad youre enjoying the build, I know I am and will sad to see it end, tho Ive and LC2 to do after this one, but I do love the LCs the most
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Oct 26, 2019 13:24:02 GMT 1
I know Ive said this before but one thing I chose to do with this build was use up some old junk parts if i could repair them, else they were going in the bin. And one thing I'm sure we all love seeing is how it's possible to turn total junk into really nice things with elbow grease and a bit of help from your mates help. For one of my good example parts, a very well used and abused clutch cover, that meant some TIG welding time and use of a powdercoating rig. Sadly I don't have a photo of the cover when I started but trust me half the paint was gone and the rest was oxidisation and deep gouges. It really was junk. With a bunch of work it's become not only usable but something that looks like new. Sure I could have bought one new for around US$85, but where is the fun in that lol (I actually have a brand new one in a box here, but Ive restored so many of my old ones that now its back on my spares shelf actually lol.) from this: to this and above you can see it fitted. So, my point is that you can fix pretty much anything if you put your mind to it and have the time and want to spend the effort. Dont bin things you can restore. I hope this post gives you hope for some of the bits of your own builds
|
|
tlmark
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 203
|
251LC
Oct 26, 2019 15:52:13 GMT 1
Post by tlmark on Oct 26, 2019 15:52:13 GMT 1
wow that looks really great you'd never know
|
|