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Post by stevietee350 on Aug 10, 2019 12:25:57 GMT 1
Started the "garden find " lc2 yesterday ,after rebuilding carbs and fuse box . I only revved it gently for a minute,noticed blue reek from left side but not much from right side ,I want to have the oil pump refurbished I heard someone on here does this so how can I contact him for details?. I tested the compression and its only 80 psi on the right and 50 on the left so I guess I'll have to take off the heads and barrels ,I am new to lc/ypvs but have rebuilt 2 or 3 air cooled strokers ,so any tips are welcome ,also pointers on dealers to buy parts e.g.. pistons gaskets ,rebores etc . And how can I tell if it needs crank seals doing .Tia ,Steve.
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Post by oldbritguy on Aug 10, 2019 12:29:11 GMT 1
Contact Arrow on the forum. He is THE oil pump master. He has done two of mine so far and does a first class job and it will come back better than new Send him a PM and he will get back to you
John
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Post by hjw on Aug 10, 2019 13:19:51 GMT 1
Well done great start Hjw
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 10, 2019 13:35:57 GMT 1
Hi If it's spent 10 years in the garden it WILL need crank seals and a full strip and rebuild. Buy genuine Yamaha seals -definitely. There are good pattern gaskets available but I go with Yamaha for clips, bearings, gaskets and seals. Proven quality and virtually everything is available from stock at places like Fowlers in Bristol. I use PJME in Wolverhampton for crank rebuilds and rebores - Japanese Mitaka pistons are good quality as Yam originals are nla from stock. Grampians in Liverpool have a great rep too, plus Norbo does exchange cranks. If you've built aircooled engines you'll find the Lc range a doddle - they are actually less complicated than an A/C, ( not that an a/c is that complicated !!), just less parts involved. But, a decent quality engine build will cost you £500 plus easily, and up to a grand if you do it all. Good luck, and there is loads of info on the forum Dusty
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 10, 2019 13:58:32 GMT 1
What Dusty says 🤣
As a minimum use genuine crank seals and head gasket
You can use pattern on the rest but personally I use all gen seals just to be sure
Rest of gaskets can be had (NE brand) off eBay for about £20 or member 4l04ever on here will sort you with some quality ones very reasonably
As for the crank take it out and have a look.
You can check big end side clearance and small end rod deflection for an idea of how it's doing but the big end pins have a habit of pitting when not used for a long time so seem ok but will self destruct after a few hundred miles
If the compression is that low it sounds like it's either shagged from abuse or bores are damaged from damp.
In either case od get the crank stripped and rebuilt anyway. Nothing worse than spending time and money on an engine for it to need stripped again
Big ends breaking up tend to damage bores and pistons on the way out the exhaust
Steve
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Post by stevietee350 on Aug 10, 2019 14:20:02 GMT 1
Thanks for that lads ,think I'll do the engine rebuild over the winter, what special tools will I need ? As in pullers, etc. That are ypvs specific .
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 10, 2019 14:29:57 GMT 1
Really just a rotor holder and remover for the flywheel and a clutch holder
If you have done other engines you may have something suitable
Flywheel remover threads into the flywheel and prizes off. Don't use a 3 leg puller
There is a proper clutch key that holds the inner and outer basket but you get universal scissor types that have tabs and pins you can use
The scissor type with 2 pins also holds the flywheel to undo the nut or you can make one with some flat bar and 3 bolts
Steve
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 10, 2019 14:38:52 GMT 1
27748045979_38dc2e1869_z by dusty miller, on Flickr Rotor holding tool for doing rotor nut 15mm copper tube flattened at one end helps to lock primary gears Torque wrench Impact driver, or an impact gun is better - lots of options for them and well worth having Flywheel puller Clutch holding tool And a good selection od allen keys, sockets and spanners - and a big hammer !! Rubber grease, normal grease and 3bond for reassembly. Dusty
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 10, 2019 15:19:17 GMT 1
Again what Dusty said 😂
Only thing I'd add is a JIS no2 screwdriver bit as a minimum
Ideally 1,2 and 3
Steve
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Post by pdxjim on Aug 11, 2019 8:00:04 GMT 1
That's a good complete kit.
You can do away with the rotor holder and the flattened pipe and use a copper coin (penny in the states) jammed between the primary and clutch gears if yer cheap.
The rest is mandatory for a proper job (but I've reassembled loads of clutches with a rattle gun and a rag jammed between the inner hub and outer basket).
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