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Post by urbantangleweed on Nov 20, 2018 16:24:59 GMT 1
Good starting point that is, rip it apart, see how bad it is and what it needs, it will probably be quite a lot but all easy enough stuff, good potential there though.
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Post by jon on Nov 20, 2018 19:58:10 GMT 1
looks like the tie bar mounts on the frame have been played with Tiebar mount has just split with vibration. Seen it before. As said later carbs, but could be jetted at a push. Rear caliper looks like a front right to me. Will make it a pig to bleed. Bin RH footrest and get a replacement. Few bit missing such as servo, controller? Drain bolt on RH cylinder sheared. Get a new front sprocket and nut (and chain and rear) and fit a proper tab washer. Other than that a good buy (as others have said). Jon
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Post by ian350n on Nov 21, 2018 18:36:35 GMT 1
Lot of potential to make a good bike again.
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Post by mak595 on Nov 21, 2018 20:33:49 GMT 1
Well, ive just sourced a wiring loom from japan so thats a start, hopfully, ive also found a stator, pv controller.
Also got a r6 shock from the classified section.
Going to strip it down over the next few days and get a proper parts list so i can keep an eye out as stuff comes up. Then rip into the motor and see what i find
Thanks for the replies guys, makes me feel better that i hav'nt bought a complete lemming
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Post by reggieperrin on Nov 23, 2018 14:37:50 GMT 1
just a quick question... What swinging arm is in the katana..?
Agree with the others, £1200 was a good buy..
Reg
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Post by mak595 on Nov 23, 2018 21:46:23 GMT 1
just a quick question... What swinging arm is in the katana..? Agree with the others, £1200 was a good buy.. Reg Standard Kat arm with a 4.5" gsxr1100k wheel, gs500 sprocket carrier, bandit 12 brake carrier, gsx750 teapot caliper and custom spacers. Had to get a offset front sprocket for the chain run.
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Post by mak595 on Nov 24, 2018 17:26:10 GMT 1
ok, stripped the bike this morning, 34 years of horrors and bodges !!
i particularly like the ride height adjuster on the shock, almost motoGP spec
Got into the motor abit but ran out of time, PV araldited up, any tricks for getting this shit off?
Pistons are marked 50 what bore is that?
And im sure i shouldnt be able to see daylight through the cases i assume a bolt when through??
On the brighter side the bores have no scoring to speak of (if i can use the barrels that is !) and the crank runs really smooth
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 24, 2018 17:42:26 GMT 1
Bloody hell, haven't seen one that bad for a long time Sheer bloody dangerous with that shock - not even decent welding skills !! - not that that would make it ok On the plus side, that hole is meant to be there - it's a drain hole. .50 is second rebore oversize. Normally go up in .25 increments so you have got some life left in those barrels Head has had a hammering from detonation though. They can be reprofiled. Anything is fixable - just gets expensive unfortunately. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 24, 2018 17:50:18 GMT 1
Other thing you may want to consider, depending on the state of the barrels, particularly the powervalves, is the availability of big bore kits for the pv. You could weigh up the cost of repairing what you have against a brand new top end. Just a thought Dusty
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 24, 2018 18:17:56 GMT 1
Jeez! That's horrific
Hope my 250 is better when it arrives
Steve
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Post by ypvs400 on Nov 24, 2018 18:50:03 GMT 1
A heat gun or blowtorch will soften the epoxy and make it easy to remove, make sure it's in a well ventilated area especially so if you use a blowtorch.
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Post by mak595 on Nov 24, 2018 19:29:30 GMT 1
Thanks guys, that's good news that the case hole should be there, i'll probably have a go getting the pv's out first, might throw the barrels in the oven to soften up the glue and see how I get on....
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Post by yamman1066 on Nov 24, 2018 19:43:27 GMT 1
in south america and india any bodge will do to keep it running , i think all the bikes he imports will be like that !!
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Post by panzermatt on Nov 24, 2018 19:51:55 GMT 1
jesus wept. i thought mine was rough when i took her apart, you have a bit of work to do mate. btw, really loving this one. stay strong!
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Post by urbantangleweed on Nov 24, 2018 20:42:06 GMT 1
Wow, even the bodges have bodges! Stick with it and you'll be fine, looking at the other stuff you've done, it won't be a problem to you.
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Post by ypvs400 on Nov 24, 2018 20:43:04 GMT 1
Thanks guys, that's good news that the case hole should be there, i'll probably have a go getting the pv's out first, might throw the barrels in the oven to soften up the glue and see how I get on.... If it's going in the oven 80°c should do it, give it 15 minutes.
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Post by mak595 on Nov 25, 2018 1:28:22 GMT 1
Cheers guys, already got a r6 shock so that fine piece of engineering can go on ebay.
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Post by mak595 on Nov 25, 2018 1:31:04 GMT 1
Thanks guys, that's good news that the case hole should be there, i'll probably have a go getting the pv's out first, might throw the barrels in the oven to soften up the glue and see how I get on.... If it's going in the oven 80°c should do it, give it 15 minutes. Cheers, been having a read up and epoxy becomes soft at 75○c so i'll give it a shot, see if I can get the pv's out
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Post by mikee on Nov 25, 2018 15:14:59 GMT 1
Bloody hell, haven't seen one that bad for a long time .50 is second rebore oversize. Normally go up in .25 increments so you have got some life left in those barrels Head has had a hammering from detonation though. They can be reprofiled. Anything is fixable - just gets expensive unfortunately. Dusty Don’t think that’s det marks dave , piston rings or wee end bearings , shrapnel, is this the welded rod motor ? Mike
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Post by mak595 on Nov 26, 2018 3:57:54 GMT 1
Bloody hell, haven't seen one that bad for a long time .50 is second rebore oversize. Normally go up in .25 increments so you have got some life left in those barrels Head has had a hammering from detonation though. They can be reprofiled. Anything is fixable - just gets expensive unfortunately. Dusty Don’t think that’s det marks dave , piston rings or wee end bearings , shrapnel, is this the welded rod motor ? Mike I hope not !!
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Post by mak595 on Nov 27, 2018 4:23:09 GMT 1
Been doing some digging, trying to work out execly what model my bike is, looking at frame number it was originally a 1984 jap spec bike, 1AR, which would make sense as its got the F2 swing arm and the tacho drive in the motor is blanked off. my bike has kidney clocks but i think it originally came with N clock with the electronic tacho. the carbs seem right for the year. Got the info Here"1984: New colorings and new model (one with integral fairing) for Japan (1 year earlier than for Australia...). New instrument console with electronic RPM tachometer , new swingarm, new front fork, new brake calipers with opposed pistons, new fender, new front light, new indicators. In Japan, the bottom of the fairing was not sold as serial equipment but was an option ! For Japan, new pipes with removable baffle/end cans. For Japan, Carburettors with the 2 throttles commanded by 2 linkages connected to a pulley (and 2 push and pull cables: push to close and pull to open the throttle "desmodromique" system). The cover of the carbs are not screw but held on by 3 screws. The two carbs are bolted together with two brackets. " Would this make sense?
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Post by mak595 on Nov 27, 2018 4:29:13 GMT 1
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Post by JonW on Nov 27, 2018 7:05:32 GMT 1
possibly... as yours doesnt look ever to have had a full fairing I guess its an N.
It is a right old bitsa tho...
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 27, 2018 8:20:53 GMT 1
What are the first 3 digits of the engine number ? I thought it was only the Brazillian "R" model that had the tacho blanked off ? Dusty
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Post by mak595 on Nov 27, 2018 11:14:19 GMT 1
What are the first 3 digits of the engine number ? I thought it was only the Brazillian "R" model that had the tacho blanked off ? Dusty 29l Only going off the rd site regarding info but it says the 1AR had the N clocks.. As far as I can make out the frame, engine/carbs and rear end is 1AR The front end is 31k and the exhausts look like 31k also. Not that I'm that bothered, I'm not going for some concourse resto, I've been looking at your previous bikes Dusty, I might modernise the running gear yet.....
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Post by urbantangleweed on Nov 27, 2018 12:35:14 GMT 1
Does the frame number start with 29L too?
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Post by JonW on Nov 27, 2018 12:41:11 GMT 1
The LC2 front ends are all the same, its only when you get to 85 and the F/N that it changes.
if you tacho is blanked off with a plug, thats a later thing and started in 85, but I dont think even in Japan that was on a 29L engine, thats LC2, not 85-on.
The IAR frame is an F or an N, as i said yours looks not have the brackets, but they could have been cut off, so I suggested it was an N.
The 1985 350 bikes have LC2 pipes with a cut out... have a good read round the rd350lc.net website and here and also read by info on 'why the F1' on my site. you will know a bit more about the 85 models then. You should be able to identify what you have got after another week of good reading I'd think, and you'll be glad you did.
Anyway, the engine and frame I dont think originated together, nor did the forks come with the bike when new. As I said, its a bitsa. But that means you can build what you like. Enjoy!
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Post by mak595 on Nov 27, 2018 16:42:16 GMT 1
Does the frame number start with 29L too? Yep
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Post by urbantangleweed on Nov 27, 2018 19:43:30 GMT 1
Well at least it seems you do have a Japanese frame with Japanese engine cases.
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Post by JonW on Nov 27, 2018 22:20:25 GMT 1
Does the frame number start with 29L too? Yep Oh? I thought you said 1AR earlier? If its 29L its an 83/84. LC2.
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