|
Post by steve540 on Oct 5, 2018 10:58:51 GMT 1
Righto joined up a week or so ago in anticipation of picking up someone else unfinished project. Long story short I had a similar but stocker 83 RZ250/350 25 yrs ago and it has always bugged me that I let it go. Anyway 2 previous owners did a bunch of work to get this bike where its at today. Now not a lot needs to be done to get it road legal but for peace of mind I'll start pulling the covers back tmw and making a to do list. Oil pump will be removed, even thou Ive been told that the worm was upgraded to the 350 Id prefer to take no chance. Coils and the water impellor are on the to do list and the typical RZ gearbox leak will get attention. Apart from that a carby clean once all the other bits have been done and a bit of tuning so I can enjoy the rest of the bike over summer.
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Oct 5, 2018 21:54:46 GMT 1
Hi Welcome to the forum Nice looking bike. Enjoy the forum Regards Dusty
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Oct 6, 2018 1:20:23 GMT 1
thanks Dusty350, almost feel guilty posting cause 2 other blokes put a bit of time and effort in and I just need to finish it off.
here's whats deen done to date
1983 RZ250K, 350 Barrels RGV Wheels, Forks, brakes, swingarm, braided lines. Ox racing pipes Ducati ducktail 748/916 Tank unsure C Fibre rear guard, CF side covers Mccrane foot controls ?? not 100% YSS rear shock Yamaha R1 speedo, have a yamaha cable , need to work out how to get it to work with the RGV fork/axle ?? Bar, headlight and mirror unknown brand, not keen on shiny mirrors so I might wrap
No idea on what the Carby set up is or what state the motor is, was promised that is was rebuilt not that long ago and not ridden.
It did start fine and comp seems strong.....
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Oct 6, 2018 8:29:50 GMT 1
Hi I recognised the early Rgv Vj21 running gear - I have the same on one of mine. Tank looks a bit like a Tzr250 3xv - if you Google it you will see the similarity. Oil pumps can be rebuilt to better than new - Arrow is our pump guru on the forum and does lots for guys here and abroad - great service and well worth doing. Keeping the pump will save you a load of hassle for sure. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Oct 6, 2018 10:46:28 GMT 1
Yeah Dusty I wasnt sure on the vintage of the RGV forks, previous owner reckons he did the spacer and roller bearing conversion but there is a small amount of play in the front. I will pull it apart and check out what he did because it wont get road worthy otherwise.
Already onto Arrow thanks, turns out I have an 350 drive in the 250 pump, pulling apart tmw to confirm whether the right 40tooth cog was used with it.
I dont need any hassle thats for sure. Any recommendations for heavier duty front springs, Im a 100kgs lol
Steve
|
|
|
Post by marrcel on Oct 6, 2018 10:59:14 GMT 1
About the R1 speedo. Dont need a cable for that. Just check if it works. Maybe someone put magnet on one of the cogs.
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Oct 6, 2018 11:26:45 GMT 1
Yep, Vj21 uses a 17" front wheel and an 18" rear. Upgrades for forks aren't as plentiful as they are for the later USD forks. I totally rebuilt mine and used new progressive springs - you could try heavier oil too, or just eat less pies !! You've got a 22 swingarm fitted though. Front yokes use the 5mm spacer under standard taper bearings, just like the USD front end, so easy to replace parts if needs be. Suzuki speedo drives are different to Yam. The part that goes into the drive on the wheel has a slot cut into it, so if you were to use a cable driven speedo, then you would need a cable from a Suzuki Bandit or something like it (maybe even Rgv but not sure on the length) Dusty
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Oct 6, 2018 13:48:16 GMT 1
About the R1 speedo. Dont need a cable for that. Just check if it works. Maybe someone put magnet on one of the cogs. Hey marrcel no cable sounds cool but whats the magnet look like and typically where is it usually located ?
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Oct 6, 2018 14:12:30 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Oct 6, 2018 21:37:51 GMT 1
thanks jonw, teach it will !!
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Oct 7, 2018 9:09:33 GMT 1
Not really a fan of playin with carbies but with a wet day in Sydney I dove into the deep end. Pulled the oil pump off first and even thou red paint was found on the oil pump body it would appear it has the both the right 350 worm drive and most importantly the matching 40 tooth Cog !!! ( I musta counted it about 10 times) hopefully confirmed by Arrow later today. Dusty350 spoke to the previous owner, tank is an RGV. [ur
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Oct 7, 2018 9:46:28 GMT 1
The Rgv tank looks a good fit on the pv frame And sounds like the oil pump has been done right too. An Arrow rebuild will give you many miles of dependable service Dusty
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Oct 22, 2018 7:19:10 GMT 1
OK so it looks like I might have a leaky right side crank case seal, keeps on foul the right plug and gearbox oil looks a little low. Anyway not going to attempt myself, what should I expect, whats the usual time to do both sides ??
|
|
|
Post by ringding on Oct 22, 2018 8:51:41 GMT 1
When the one on my tdr went it was like a smoke machine was connected to the rhs pipe.
The engine strip isn't too hard, if you have the time.
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Oct 22, 2018 9:14:31 GMT 1
thanks ringding, Ive just got too much on atm the moment and a poor set up in my garage. Im getting rid of a Civic racecar this week along with about 20 tyres this weekend and Ill do a big clean up, I may have a crack..... so a couple of hours ya reckon ?
|
|
|
Post by ringding on Oct 22, 2018 20:31:20 GMT 1
Once it's out the bike I'd think it's maybe 3 or 4 hours. Depends on your speed of working I guess. I tend to do a little at a time, as I don't tend to have time very often. There's a tdr250 strip down guide somewhere on the forum I think.
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Apr 7, 2019 4:34:06 GMT 1
So finally got the bike on the road a month ago, new crank bearing, crankcase seal, gear selector in. Racetech springs for a 95kgs rider. Currently 108kgs, lost 5kgs in the last month and the Im using the bike as motivation to lose the remain 13kg over the rest of the year. If I hit my goal Ill look at getting another RZ350 and doing my own hybrid build. Bike runs strong out 9500rpm and with the short gearing and a gentle heave 3rd gear wheelies up my local hill are now possible lol. Was having a real issue with finding neutral when hot, a change from Motul to Silkolene light gear oil and a quick shimming of the gear cable with som e3/8 brass washers and Neutral is like new. Upgraded the Brake MC and lever to a GSXR1000 unit and it feels heaps better with the RGV brakes. Grabbed some old stock Dunlop SP Alpha 13 real cheap and Ferodo sintered pads do an awesome job stops and turning things. Bike starts first kick every time and Im a bit shocked at how much Im enjoying the bike.
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Apr 7, 2019 4:34:37 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 7, 2019 8:09:10 GMT 1
Hi Steve Great news Another one alive and kicking and being enjoyed ! Well done Dusty
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Apr 7, 2019 8:21:47 GMT 1
Thanks Dusty, I've had 4 rides this weekend just cant get enough of it, sunny and about 25deg. Just gotta adjust the idle up as it runs low occasionally and stalls, do I wind in or out ??
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Apr 7, 2019 8:45:45 GMT 1
Hi Winding in will raise your idle speed. The end of the pin works against the slide and raises it slightly, allowing more fuel in. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Apr 7, 2019 12:23:28 GMT 1
thanks mate will have a crack this week
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Aug 27, 2019 9:05:58 GMT 1
So now ridden my 350 all thru winter and Im struggling to keep water temps above 50 deg on the road, warms up to 72 when stopped at the lights lol. Anyway probably done about 12-1300km at most and this morning I noticed a tiny puff of smmoke coming from the rear of the head gasket right in the middle, to be honest it may have been puffing for a while but I dont normally look in there. Anyway no drop off in performance and coolants is all good. Now I had the motor pulled apart earlier this year and everything checked before fresh OEM gaskets were put thru out, can this 1 just be reused and sprayed with copper gasket spray torqued back up? no coolant seems to have come out, Ive circled the area where the leak is, and i suspect the leak is closing up as things get warm.
|
|
|
Post by andy748 on Aug 27, 2019 11:47:14 GMT 1
Hi Steve, try and re-torque the head to manufacturers specs, may be as simple as that, or could be a slightly warped head. Good luck, Andy.
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Aug 27, 2019 13:29:43 GMT 1
Thanks Andy that was my first thought, warped head hey...yeah also had that thought too, water temps too cool?
Anyone got a the torque setting for the head bolts?
|
|
|
Post by andy748 on Aug 27, 2019 15:20:27 GMT 1
Hi Steve, 28 Nm for the head bolts. Andy.
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Aug 28, 2019 10:04:05 GMT 1
So started the bike up briefly late this arvo and small puffs from the same spot, turned it off and then threw the torque wrench on and managed to tightened in the correct order every single bolt a smidge. Started up again and no puffs so I took it for a short run, got it hot and it seems to be pulling hard.
Thanks Andy for your assistance
|
|
|
Post by andy748 on Aug 28, 2019 19:09:48 GMT 1
No bother Steve, nice to know it was an easy and free fix! Andy.
|
|
|
Post by steve540 on Sept 13, 2019 5:48:56 GMT 1
So ridden the bike a few times in the last week and all running good, well if ya dont count a leaky front fork seal... Anyway 530 am riding along the motorway to the airport on wednesday and I notice my speed Tacho light flickering and then my headlight blacked out. So no head light or brake/tailing at all, but indicators still work fine. Already checked the wiring connections and they seems allgood, has something burnt out or is there a fuse somehwere any idea's
|
|
|
Post by jon on Sept 13, 2019 7:29:55 GMT 1
Indicators are on a different circuit to the headlamp.
Most likely a fuse.
They are helpfully unde the tank.
Jon
|
|