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Post by headcoats on Jul 6, 2018 22:25:56 GMT 1
Found a YPVS tacho from a 350 but that is all I have , so what else do I need to make it work ?
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Post by headcoats on Jul 6, 2018 22:33:29 GMT 1
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Post by bare on Jul 7, 2018 0:59:29 GMT 1
The rest of the Yvps ?? Beyond that... for transplanting to another machine.. a feed from the CDI. Might even tap off the Orange Coil feed signal ??
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Post by headcoats on Jul 7, 2018 9:01:25 GMT 1
Yes i meant to say to fit into some LC clock cases for the hybrid
Now if it had a different face decal (needle) and a tiny digital temp gauge cut into the tacho face !
I remember someone did this but on an LC Tacho
What connects the YPVS tacho up to juice then :-)
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 7, 2018 9:51:48 GMT 1
You need a 12v power soupy and the trigger off the ypvs cod that feeds the pv controller
Coil signal won't work as not a pulse trigger
Steve
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Post by headcoats on Jul 7, 2018 10:05:47 GMT 1
On the back I see just 2 brass threaded connectors, it's not as simple as that though is it !
Will it need grounded too ?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jul 7, 2018 10:26:09 GMT 1
I Like your idea
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Post by headcoats on Jul 7, 2018 10:31:22 GMT 1
There looks a big enough gap to get a small digital thermometer in and as it will be sitting behind the glass , you won't be able to push any buttons , so needs one that is as simple as ?
I don't even know if the actual tacho works or not
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Post by headcoats on Jul 7, 2018 13:04:53 GMT 1
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Post by bare on Jul 7, 2018 16:31:35 GMT 1
LC clock not working ? Or no tacho cable fitting in the cases? Beyond that, the Yama 'lectric tachs can be every bit as inaccurate as the cable driven versions. Only worthwhile bit of that thing is the face and the needle. Transplant the innards of a younger (and much smaller mechanism) tach into it. In which case.. using the face, needle and temp gauge from an LC clock could be cleaner and possibly even easier
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Post by headcoats on Jul 7, 2018 18:24:28 GMT 1
I do believe you are onto something there Bare !
Need to check the face of the YPVS tacho versus the LC tacho face to see if the markings are similar
Temp gauge already built in :-)
May have to source a non working tacho then for the bits
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Post by donkeychomp on Jul 7, 2018 20:52:48 GMT 1
You need a 12v power soupy and the trigger off the ypvs cod that feeds the pv controller Coil signal won't work as not a pulse trigger Steve Dammit now I want some soupy cod! Alex
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jul 7, 2018 21:00:22 GMT 1
You need a 12v power soupy and the trigger off the ypvs cod that feeds the pv controller Coil signal won't work as not a pulse trigger Steve Dammit now I want some soupy cod! Alex Feckin phone auto correct and not wearing specs 😣😣😣 Steve
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Post by headcoats on Jul 7, 2018 21:00:54 GMT 1
Doesn't look like that idea is going to work :-(
The 1 to 12 numbers are in a different place on the LC tacho and not all the YPVS tachos are the same either
Think mine is an 85 onwards so could only use that reproduction decal to keep the numbers where they are supposed to go
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Post by headcoats on Jul 7, 2018 23:21:10 GMT 1
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Post by donkeychomp on Jul 8, 2018 0:24:03 GMT 1
Steve it just made me laugh and boy I needed one! Cheers mate
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Jul 8, 2018 0:24:40 GMT 1
Sorry about the thread hi-jack there
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Post by andy748 on Jul 8, 2018 19:22:00 GMT 1
I'll have a look in my bag of N1 goodies, sure i have one but here's a picture of the 3 feeds to the tacho on the N1. Andy. IMG_1672 by Andrew Jolly, on Flickr
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Post by headcoats on Jul 8, 2018 19:41:15 GMT 1
Cheers for the pic Andy What does it look like under the covers ?
I just have the circuit board with 2 brass threaded holes and one visible black wire and a red wire
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Post by andy748 on Jul 8, 2018 19:56:37 GMT 1
I'll see if i've got a stripped one tomorrow for you, will get pictures if i have mate. Andy.
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Post by andy748 on Jul 9, 2018 18:12:38 GMT 1
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Post by headcoats on Jul 9, 2018 19:31:06 GMT 1
Many thanks for the pics but looks like bad news for mine :-(
In the last pic, the top right brass tang is missing and looks like 2 little dodgy blue wires soldered on BOO HOO
Anyone got a working one for sale :-)
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