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Post by shergar on Jun 9, 2018 18:27:44 GMT 1
hi lads just brought my 31k out for its first spin since rebuilding it . took it nice and handy to break it in but in any gear hitting 4500 to 5000 revs it has that blank spot just like the lc . iv fitted a zeel (norbo) on it as the cdi gave up and i also fitted banshee coils (norbo) so no issue there i recon . i didnt do a plug chop yet but just said id put it out there to you lads to see if any advice , o and also the carbs were soda blasted and all insides are standard and correct and on standard pipes and air box ect , all advice very welcome , cheers
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Post by rigga on Jun 9, 2018 22:23:34 GMT 1
Always believed right or wrong, that the 4 to 5k stutter was down to a rich mixture at that point, tried dropping the needles (raising the clip) one notch to see if that helps? On a LC removing the snorkel from the airbox also helps, does the 31k have the same?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 9, 2018 23:04:36 GMT 1
What pipes are on it
Standard bike usually silky smooth
Steve
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Post by rigga on Jun 9, 2018 23:17:55 GMT 1
What pipes are on it Standard bike usually silky smooth Steve Guessing with the pv's working as they should be?
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Post by cbm on Jun 10, 2018 7:39:42 GMT 1
My LC2 did exactly the same after long term build, I sent the carbs to Dave/Muttsnuts for a clean/service and voila no more flat spot
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Post by shergar on Jun 10, 2018 9:08:47 GMT 1
Always believed right or wrong, that the 4 to 5k stutter was down to a rich mixture at that point, tried dropping the needles (raising the clip) one notch to see if that helps? On a LC removing the snorkel from the airbox also helps, does the 31k have the same? going to try the needles now .
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Post by shergar on Jun 10, 2018 9:09:28 GMT 1
What pipes are on it Standard bike usually silky smooth Steve standard 31k pipes steve , p
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Post by shergar on Jun 10, 2018 9:10:39 GMT 1
What pipes are on it Standard bike usually silky smooth Steve Guessing with the pv's working as they should be? how would you be able to tell ? p
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 10, 2018 9:15:12 GMT 1
Should have read you post closer 😔
It does sound rich at that point. As said drop the needle one notch (higher groove) and see if it improves
You say the carbs were soda blasted. We're all the internals removed first ie emulsion tubes and were the brass balls drilled out and the air jet behind it cleaned?
Also have your pipes been decoked
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 10, 2018 9:16:31 GMT 1
Guessing with the pv's working as they should be? how would you be able to tell ? p Take the pulley cover off and rev the bike up Pulley should start to move at approx 5500 - 6000 Steve
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Post by shergar on Jun 10, 2018 9:20:46 GMT 1
just before i mess with needles where is the standard clip position ? mine is on the second up at the moment , p
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Post by shergar on Jun 10, 2018 9:29:44 GMT 1
Should have read you post closer 😔 It does sound rich at that point. As said drop the needle one notch (higher groove) and see if it improves You say the carbs were soda blasted. We're all the internals removed first ie emulsion tubes and were the brass balls drilled out and the air jet behind it cleaned? Also have your pipes been decoked Steve steve the carbs were done with a bloke in the uk AJ,s who iv used a fair bit and im almost sure he said he dose drill out . iv never decoked pipes so im not sure on that mate . will have to check the valves . the bike sounds and runs spot on except for the 4500 problem .starts first kick with no choke even after been left lying . did you see my question on std clip position ? ta paul
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Post by rigga on Jun 10, 2018 9:43:58 GMT 1
Think clip should be middle on standard jetting, what main jets are fitted? 240 are standard, reason I ask is that starting from cold with no choke send to me its rich, and maybe why the needles arnt in the standard position for a bike with no mods, worth checking at least for a base line.
So currently the clip is second from bottom? That would make it run rich.
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Post by shergar on Jun 10, 2018 9:49:49 GMT 1
Think clip should be middle on standard jetting, what main jets are fitted? 240 are standard, reason I ask is that starting from cold with no choke send to me its rich, and maybe why the needles arnt in the standard position for a bike with no mods, worth checking at least for a base line. So currently the clip is second from bottom? That would make it run rich. yes steve second . so i need to go to middle and try from there first , then check jets , start a fresh as they say .
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Post by rigga on Jun 10, 2018 9:56:23 GMT 1
Try middle, then next one up, hopefully that will sort it
Martin (not Steve)
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Post by shergar on Jun 10, 2018 9:56:25 GMT 1
just thinking back now something that was bugging me when riding it was i felt that when i let the throttle off that the bike was still sort of reeving and descending slowly if you know what i mean and also i took out the sliders just now and lots of fuel came with them so id say your right about getting to much juice .p
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Post by rigga on Jun 10, 2018 10:02:17 GMT 1
Whip the float bowls off one at a time and check the numbers on the pilots and main jets, so you know what's in there.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 10, 2018 10:41:02 GMT 1
Try middle, then next one up, hopefully that will sort it Martin (not Steve) Believe me, you don't want to be Steve 😂 Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 10, 2018 10:45:16 GMT 1
If it's starting from cold with no choke it's definitely rich
Also concerned about the wet slides
Pop the air filter lid off and try it to see if it improves
As rigga says check jets and float heights as well
As for the pipes take the baffles out to start with and see how bad they are
Steve
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Post by muttsnuts on Jun 11, 2018 21:39:14 GMT 1
sounds like float heights are wrong or the float valves have failed and also the needle is in the wrong position, should be middle clip, check float heights, then check mains and pilots, also check float valves are not letting fuel passed
Also check what needle is fitted, seen plenty of carbs with the wrong one fitted as the later YPVS uses a 5L20, the 31k still uses the 5K1 if I remember correctly, I can check my notes if need be for you
HTH
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Post by wozzap on Jun 12, 2018 11:54:41 GMT 1
Should have read you post closer 😔 It does sound rich at that point. As said drop the needle one notch (higher groove) and see if it improves You say the carbs were soda blasted. We're all the internals removed first ie emulsion tubes and were the brass balls drilled out and the air jet behind it cleaned? Also have your pipes been decoked Steve steve the carbs were done with a bloke in the uk AJ,s who iv used a fair bit and im almost sure he said he dose drill out . iv never decoked pipes so im not sure on that mate . will have to check the valves . the bike sounds and runs spot on except for the 4500 problem .starts first kick with no choke even after been left lying . did you see my question on std clip position ? ta paul The carbs that CBM is referring to were done for me by Tony at AJ and he doesn't drill the balls out. I had the same issue on my 400F and Dave (Mutts Nuts) sorted them too. I'd save the aggro personally and just send them to Dave, they'll come back sorted and set as they left the factory
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Post by Mr M T Pockets on Jun 21, 2018 0:45:37 GMT 1
ok P ,first of try some new plugs thats if you haven't, the reeving when descending slowly is the idle circuit running weaker from moving the needle down , i bet if you pull the choke out when its reeving on descending it will run better,if so try and richen up the idle circuit up buy turning the mixture screws in quarter of a turn at a time on both carbs and see if it feels better , if you end up with just half a turn out then use 27.5 pilots or even 32.5 pilots, but to be honest at this point with the carbs off i would try a leak down test,it can cure your biggest nightmares
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Post by shergar on Jun 30, 2018 17:49:55 GMT 1
how would you be able to tell ? p Take the pulley cover off and rev the bike up Pulley should start to move at approx 5500 - 6000 Steve just coming back on the power valves steve i just did this video to see what you think . when it just slightly moves its a 6k revs then i gave it a few revs and you can see it moving dose this look correct ? also if you listen to the engine at the start you hear a sort of knocking /blowing sound like an exhaust blowing or something but theres not dose it sound ok or any idea on what the noise is ? ta p www.flickr.com/photos/159078454@N08/shares/0194nE
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 30, 2018 17:57:30 GMT 1
Looks to be working fine
Wouldn't worry about the noise
As the valves open the sound of the engine will change due to the altered exhaust port timing
Steve
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Post by shergar on Jun 30, 2018 19:44:02 GMT 1
great thanks for all the help , ps (other post) the clutch is now sorted also , cheers p
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Post by peter007 on May 25, 2019 7:42:27 GMT 1
with regards to being rich at 1/4 throttle just off the pilot jet i found also that raising the clip worked but i did mine incrementally with 0.3 mm shims using one at a time until my clips are set in top groove with 3 shims under the clip and it has transformed my rebuilt motor . Its amazing how sharp , crisp , and responsive it is now , so much so i'm popping power wheelies in second gear !!!
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Post by peter007 on May 25, 2019 7:56:08 GMT 1
I've just found this section in a post from a while back.
The center needle position will probably work OK for your bike but you can try moving the needle up/down to see how it performs. If it seems better in a particular direction, you can also use small/thin washers as shims under the clip to refine the height of the needle at less than full clip positions. I use washers to adjust the needle on my RZ. Any time you do anything that involves the throttle cable, like removing the tops and slides to change the needle height, re-confirm the mechanical balance and carp/throttle/oil pump adjustment. Any changes in these will effect your results and make you wonder why you didn't get the results you expected(plug indication is richer from increased oil maladjustment when you expected leaner because you just put in smaller jets/leaned out airscrew or needle).
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