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Post by dusty350 on Aug 10, 2019 21:58:09 GMT 1
It's being built with getting a full MOT in mind, and if I have to tax it then that's ok. Having said that I will probably never ride it on the road, but if I sold it I would get an MOT on it before hand anyway. The only part that bothers me - MOT wise, is a parking light. The headlamp doesn't have one, and I don't want to drill the shell to fit one in case I damage it or the silver surface inside. The glass is bonded to the shell by the looks of it and I don't want to disturb it, so I need to research what is acceptable for a parking light, and whether it can be separate from the headlight unit itself. I've continued fitting some parts today. I've bolted the new horn in under the headstock, so it's out of sight once the tank is fitted; 20190810_152910 by dusty miller, on Flickr Tacho went back on too. Before I had the powdercoating done, I drilled a hole in the top of the headlight shell so the wiring from the tacho unit could pass through the shell and not around it, which would have looked horrible and stressed the wiring. I fitted a double edged grommet to protect the wiring where it passes through; 20190810_202216 by dusty miller, on Flickr Also re fitted the rearsets. They now sit an inch from the frame on the new threaded mounts. This will enable a bit more room for the exhausts to clear the swingarm and pick up a mounting point on the rearset backplates, which I've yet to drill; 20190810_155606 by dusty miller, on Flickr The front wheel is in with the newly powdered wheel spacer, and I hope to get the rear wheel in tomorrow. Dusty
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Post by oldbritguy on Aug 10, 2019 22:12:33 GMT 1
You are not hanging about with this one Dusty. Gonna look amazing mate.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 11, 2019 18:16:08 GMT 1
Looking awesome mate
I've drilled the headlamp before
Just drilled a hole with a step cutter while holdind the bowl with the buld out so the swarf fell out the hole then fitted a push in buld holder.
Just go slowly
I've been buying US or Jap headlights to replace euro ones for a while
Steve
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 17, 2019 7:22:48 GMT 1
Hi Steve I will have a better look at it but I'm not confident I wont damage the shell if I start drilling it. A busy week meant I've not done much to the bike. I did cut and shape another chain slipper as once I had fitted the swingarm I felt it needed to be wider at the top end. So I made another, 1cm wider at the top; 20190817_064549 by dusty miller, on Flickr The other thing that was bugging me was the rear caliper. I had it vapour blasted by Jamie a few months back, and had rebuilt it with new Suzuki pistons and seals, and it was ready for final fit. But the front calipers are black, and now everything else is powdercoated I thought it may look odd as it was, so I stripped it again; 20190814_100357 by dusty miller, on Flickr Then took it to Jamie who painted it with Cerakote and then baked it on; 20190817_064621 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20190817_064610 by dusty miller, on Flickr I will rebuild that today. I've just got some new EBC pads and pins for it too. Rear wheel can go in after that Dusty
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Post by cb250g5 on Aug 17, 2019 10:08:25 GMT 1
A sidelight isn't needed for an MOT. My TDR doesn't have one. For that matter neither does my modern bike, but in that case the headlights come on all the time anyway, so would be pointless.
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Post by oldbritguy on Aug 17, 2019 15:09:00 GMT 1
Nice one Dusty
Amended chain slipper looks great and thumbs up for the new colour on the rear caliper too
John
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Post by philmill on Aug 17, 2019 15:54:31 GMT 1
Awesome, nice job hiding the horn up there, this bike is going to be great!
Phil
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Post by mouse on Aug 17, 2019 15:59:32 GMT 1
This is looking soooooo good Dusty!
Mouse
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Post by shandyboy on Aug 17, 2019 17:48:15 GMT 1
As normal, looking spot on that Dusty always enjoy reading through your builds
Keep it going
Alan
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 18, 2019 8:32:23 GMT 1
Cheers fellas Hope you are right regards the side light. I will cross that bridge if and when the time comes. Not too worried about it. Fitted the rear caliper after rebuilding it, which means the rear wheel is now in again; 20190817_113501 by dusty miller, on Flickr Electrics tray bolted in, and numberplate bracket fixed back on with a rubber damper between the bracket and undertray. Now the frame is coated, I love the way the tray follows the seat lines; 20190817_113511 by dusty miller, on Flickr If I get a chance today, the engine will go back in Dusty
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Post by stusco on Aug 18, 2019 10:35:19 GMT 1
I made my chain slider out of some super hard nylon I got off eBay I’ve done a couple of thousand mile with no wear I’ve got plenty left if you want a bit but it’s white(nylon) colour
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 18, 2019 20:13:29 GMT 1
Very kind offer Stusco , but mine is in and the chain lines up nicely; 20190818_115201 by dusty miller, on Flickr Engine went in today. Covered the frame tubes with pipe lagging, and although it's a tight fit and a bit of a wiggle, I managed to get the engine in with no damage to the powdercoat 20190818_121918 by dusty miller, on Flickr 20190818_121946 by dusty miller, on Flickr This week I will sort the plumbing. I have a Koso inline temp sender that I'm going to splice into the top hose, and I may move the rad overflow bottle to the new bracket on the left side so the oil tank bottle can go on the right, the thinking being heat from the engine wont affect the oil from the tank to the pump if the feed pipe doesn't have to cross above the cylinder head. Really pleased I went with the black frame and not red. I think black really suits it. Dusty
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Post by donkeychomp on Aug 18, 2019 23:08:07 GMT 1
Kinda lost for words here. Even the rear brake arm is a work of art. This is going to be unreal Dusty!
Alex
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Post by mouse on Aug 19, 2019 7:05:46 GMT 1
Looks truly terrific Dusty, soon off for pipes and wiring?
Mouse
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 19, 2019 7:35:37 GMT 1
Pipes,wiring and carbs will be the next big jobs. Not sure when I will be ready for that part of the build, and I need to top up the funds a bit first. Spent a fair bit lately☹ Still got paint to sort on mudguard and seat, some cables too. Not quite there yet !
Dusty😉
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tlmark
Drag-strip hero
Posts: 203
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Post by tlmark on Aug 19, 2019 9:33:16 GMT 1
You do do mighty fine work Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 20, 2019 21:54:08 GMT 1
Thanks Fitted the rad last night; 20190819_202651 by dusty miller, on Flickr Had quite a battle sorting the main head to rad hose due to splicing in the Koso temp sender but got there eventually. Today I fitted the smaller pipes. The overflow bottle is now fitted to the left side of the bike; 20190820_163426 by dusty miller, on Flickr And the bottle for 2 stroke oil will go on the right side so the pipe from the bottle will have an easy run to the pump; 20190820_163527 by dusty miller, on Flickr Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 23, 2019 9:56:00 GMT 1
Fitted a 29l clutch cable last night. Wasn't sure how long/short if would be as this is all new territory regards clip ons, Pv engine/aircooled frame, so rather than buy one that may or may not fit, I pinched the cable off the orange hybrid. It fits well, especially with the adjuster that I fitted on the engine end for the other bike; 20190822_201629 by dusty miller, on Flickr So that adjuster was out of my spares box, and basically a clutch lever adjuster. It sits nice and tight in the casting on top of the engine and the standard cable clamp sits over it and clamps it down; 20190822_203643 by dusty miller, on Flickr So you now get adjustment at both ends of the cable. I also made a bracket for the "M" button which will mount on the bars. Paint is curing on that at the mo so hopefully fit that later. Dusty
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Post by mak595 on Aug 23, 2019 14:00:39 GMT 1
Fantastic work
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Post by oldbritguy on Aug 23, 2019 14:29:10 GMT 1
This is coming together really well. It exceeds how I was imagining it would turn out quite significantly, and I knew it would be really nice from the off.
Now that it is coming together with loads of parts fitted, is there nowhere presented itself, a small space even, to mount a PV servo?
I know you thought long and hard early in the build but looking at where we are now it would be the icing on the cake.
Cannot wait to see it with bodywork and pipes fitted. Top job
John
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 23, 2019 15:47:42 GMT 1
Hi John If I had gone with the front numberboard idea, the servo could have mounted behind that in theory, but I'm glad the single headlight looks as good as it does so that's staying. No room under the tank, and no room in the seat unit. Everything is as minimalist as possible, but space is still really tight, and the servo is a chunky, odd shaped thing that needs to be fixed in a certain position for the cables to work well. It's also an ugly thing which I wouldn't want on show, so I decided some time back not to try and find somewhere to fit it. If the engine has the characteristics of an Lc rather than a Pv, that will be no bad thing, and come the time it gets set up on a dyno I'm sure the few mods like digital programmable ignition, pipes, Pwk's and Vforce reeds will help spice things up a bit. Having said that, out and out performance isn't my main aim with this build, and I chose the Pv engine over an Lc engine due to the ability to mod a bit more easily. My main aim was to make it look like a pro built bike, with proper brackets for components where necessary. I also wanted it to be like nothing else I've done before, and I've definitely ticked that box !! Fitting the servo now would mean putting it somewhere where it would look horrible, and seem like an afterthought I think, so Pv less it will stay ! And I agree, it's turned out much better than I had hoped for. A lot of that is down to my willingness to get proper engineering done on it, rather than cobbling bits together myself - downside being the cost of said work has been significant, and I will be expecting a Xmas card from Clive and the boys this year !! But I am very happy with the work that has been done. The next big decision will be pipes ie, cross over or non crossover, overall length which will be affected by the downpipe configuration, how much they kick up at the back etc. I love the idea still, of stingers and no cans but I think that is a "pipe dream" , especially as it will need to be MOT worthy. I have seen some pipes on Mutt's website that I think would look good, think they are on "Loudpipes" bike. I will see if I can get the pic on here, but they look like they would suit my bike as they seem short at the back. Dusty
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 23, 2019 21:01:14 GMT 1
PV servo in the headlight bowl 🤣
Steve
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 23, 2019 21:21:25 GMT 1
And ruin that lovely headlight you gave me Steve ? No way !! Plus, it wouldn't fit anyway (I checked !!) I bought a Pv servo off ebay at the start of the project, and it's been tried all over the bike. The large tube that runs from the headstock down to above the carbs on the aircooled frame is the culprit. It doesn't have as much room as the twin spars on an Lc, where you can fit the servo on that bike. If it was fitted it would definitely have to be out of sight and there really is nowhere to do that. It will be a Pv that behaves like an Lc - I can happily live with that And these are the pipes I like the look of; Custom_Exhaust8 by dusty miller, on Flickr Imagine those with just stingers !! I like the fact they are not too long. I don't think pipes should look longer than the bodywork and as the café seat is quite short, these would suit the look I think. Food for thought Dusty
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Post by oldbritguy on Aug 23, 2019 21:29:44 GMT 1
Hi John If I had gone with the front numberboard idea, the servo could have mounted behind that in theory, but I'm glad the single headlight looks as good as it does so that's staying. No room under the tank, and no room in the seat unit. Everything is as minimalist as possible, but space is still really tight, and the servo is a chunky, odd shaped thing that needs to be fixed in a certain position for the cables to work well. It's also an ugly thing which I wouldn't want on show, so I decided some time back not to try and find somewhere to fit it. If the engine has the characteristics of an Lc rather than a Pv, that will be no bad thing, and come the time it gets set up on a dyno I'm sure the few mods like digital programmable ignition, pipes, Pwk's and Vforce reeds will help spice things up a bit. Having said that, out and out performance isn't my main aim with this build, and I chose the Pv engine over an Lc engine due to the ability to mod a bit more easily. My main aim was to make it look like a pro built bike, with proper brackets for components where necessary. I also wanted it to be like nothing else I've done before, and I've definitely ticked that box !! Fitting the servo now would mean putting it somewhere where it would look horrible, and seem like an afterthought I think, so Pv less it will stay ! And I agree, it's turned out much better than I had hoped for. A lot of that is down to my willingness to get proper engineering done on it, rather than cobbling bits together myself - downside being the cost of said work has been significant, and I will be expecting a Xmas card from Clive and the boys this year !! But I am very happy with the work that has been done. The next big decision will be pipes ie, cross over or non crossover, overall length which will be affected by the downpipe configuration, how much they kick up at the back etc. I love the idea still, of stingers and no cans but I think that is a "pipe dream" , especially as it will need to be MOT worthy. I have seen some pipes on Mutt's website that I think would look good, think they are on "Loudpipes" bike. I will see if I can get the pic on here, but they look like they would suit my bike as they seem short at the back. Dusty Hi Dusty It was just a thought in case things had changed a bit since conception but I totally agree that if all available space is taken then you don't want to cobble something else in there and spoil things. And yes the bike is looking superb and very much pro built. I can only imagine the fabrication cost so far but it really is a special. Clive and the boys really have done an outstanding job. I am sure once up and running and having a trip on Dave's dyno she will go as good if not better than she looks. Saw a TZ outfit thing with stingers running at the Ramsay sprint last year and it looked and sounded amazing (VERY LOUD). Totally illegal on the road I would think but a couple of short cans for MOT time and it could be an option. I am sure you will be playing with lots of drawings and cardboard templates before you finally decide on style of pipes so we will sit and patiently await your next chapter in this amazing creation Keep it going John
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 24, 2019 7:55:36 GMT 1
The bike will go up to Mutts for the pipes. I will have an idea of how I want them to be but I'm sure there will be a compromise between looks and how they need to work, so I will leave that in Dave's very capable hands. I will be as excited at seeing the end result as you ! I'm not sure how they would/could carburate with no end cans fitted. I would love the dual option of cans, and no cans - not sure if that can be done to both work properly and look good too, but I fear short 6" cans may be the sensible option. Yogi's hybrid Pv has short looking pipes and that is achieved by cross over down pipes, and I like the look of those too, so however they are fabricated I'm sure they will suit the bike. And build costs so far aren't as excessive as the 2 Lc hybrids I built in recent years. I've collected certain parts over time and gained some spares with other projects which has helped. Plus, having free range to use whatever parts I want helps to keep costs down and you are not held to ransom on "correct" parts for a period correct bike. I think I may move away from Lc hybrid builds as I've done a few now, and more towards a build like this again. Still like the idea of another aircooled 400 café racer Dusty
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Post by jon on Aug 24, 2019 9:05:01 GMT 1
And ruin that lovely headlight you gave me Steve ? No way !! Plus, it wouldn't fit anyway (I checked !!) I bought a Pv servo off ebay at the start of the project, and it's been tried all over the bike. The large tube that runs from the headstock down to above the carbs on the aircooled frame is the culprit. It doesn't have as much room as the twin spars on an Lc, where you can fit the servo on that bike. If it was fitted it would definitely have to be out of sight and there really is nowhere to do that. It will be a Pv that behaves like an Lc - I can happily live with that And these are the pipes I like the look of; Custom_Exhaust8 by dusty miller, on Flickr Imagine those with just stingers !! I like the fact they are not too long. I don't think pipes should look longer than the bodywork and as the café seat is quite short, these would suit the look I think. Food for thought Dusty It might just be the angle of that photo, but the belly of those pipes looks close to the ground? Remember Mouse’s misfortune. Your doing the right thing having the pipes made on the bike. I got Gibson’s to make a set for me they make for YPM. They are slightly larger belly than my off the shelf Gibson’s, but they tuck up lovely even with a centre stand. Talking to Tony, and looking at my Micron end cans, you can extend the stinger into the baffle by quite a way and it doesn’t effect performance by much at all. I seem to remember some 30 years ago Norrie Kerr mentioning to experiment with the amount of stinger inside the baffle? Anyway, this seriously reduces the noise output, so worth a go. What about a pair of RGV 250 end cans for MOT time? p.s. please fold the split pin over in the lower shock mount. I know you will, but it’s bugging me LOL. Jon
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 24, 2019 9:28:19 GMT 1
Hi Jon I don't expect the pipes on mine will have such a large mid section - the pic was more about the length I would like to achieve. That's a big bore motor, so I guess the dimensions of the pipe reflect that. Mine is a standard bore engine so the pipes will be less volume in that area I expect. The twin down tubes of the aircooled frame are closer together than on an Lc, so cross over downpipes may make life a bit easier regards fitting to the cylinders, but I think a standard set of downpipes will fit - I trial fitted Allspeeds when working out the engine mounts and they fitted with a couple of mm to spare, so it's close ! The frame down tubes are what stopped me going with big bore cylinders as the exit for the downpipes would see the tubes in the way, and I didn't want the hassle or expense of altering that part of the frame. Life would be so much easier if I could buy a set of Daves Pv pipes and just move the hanger mounts, but the aircooled frame differs enough from an Lc to make that risky, so Dave will get the bike and they will be bespoke. He will make a loom for me at the same time and map the ignition etc, so a worthwhile trip north. And I haven't forgotten the split pins Both sides need doing. Still quite a few jobs to do before I run the list down Dusty
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Post by marrcel on Aug 24, 2019 10:12:19 GMT 1
Thinking about your pv servo. I think a direct drive can be made. If you open the servo you can see how easy it is to install the final servo sprocket to the lh or rh cylinder. I believe i have seen pictures of a rd500 with 2 servo.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Aug 24, 2019 16:36:50 GMT 1
Thinking about your pv servo. I think a direct drive can be made. If you open the servo you can see how easy it is to install the final servo sprocket to the lh or rh cylinder. I believe i have seen pictures of a rd500 with 2 servo. Yes I like that idea.
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Post by dusty350 on Aug 25, 2019 7:58:33 GMT 1
The servo is gonna be for sale soon with some other left over parts, so the bike will be Pv less. I don't want to spoil the look of the engine by modding something to bolt on the side of the cylinders, and I really don't mind if it has the characteristics of an Lc engine. I'm really comfortable with the compromise to be honest. The "look" of the bike is really important to me, and locked open Pv's aren't a problem in my mind. The "M" button is now fitted; 20190824_121415 by dusty miller, on Flickr So a fob turns on the ignition and electrical system rather than a key. Some people hide it on the bike but I'm comfortable with it on the bars. I also made a small bracket with a "P" clip to lock the top part of the clutch cable; 20190824_115027 by dusty miller, on Flickr This is to stop the cable moving across the top of the headlight bowl when turning the bars. It allows the cable to move as it needs to further down it's length though, so no issues with a tight cable. Dusty
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