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Post by philmill on Feb 15, 2019 21:51:14 GMT 1
Looking through posts on here, I just saw a pic of somebody's engine and the L/H valve seal is in the opposite way to the way I have fitted all the rest, is that correct, have i got mine in the right way?? I am struggling to try and get the L/H seal in past the first lip.
Phil
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Post by panzermatt on Feb 15, 2019 22:04:48 GMT 1
I think once you can see all the castles your right, if you get me, and this is what i dis anyway, before you put torque the head down and after you have the barrels tight, check to see they still turn smooth.
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Post by LC_BOTT on Feb 15, 2019 22:08:28 GMT 1
Nice job so far, coming along very well. All the seals look correct to me, castle bits face outwards from memory, therefore the rubber 'taper' stops oil blowing out. I'm not too sure the molybdenum grease is essential, as it gets replaced with two stroke and carbon after a while, (happy to be corrected though).
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Post by philmill on Feb 16, 2019 7:07:21 GMT 1
I thought I had the seals in the right way, just got to try and get the L/H side one in, it doesn't want to go past the lip on the shaft.
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Post by jon on Feb 16, 2019 9:48:53 GMT 1
+1 for molybdenum grease.
If you know a friendly car mechanic you probably find a half used sachet of it in his bin or his toolbox as it’s included with a CV joint (a common repair).
Jon
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Post by philmill on Feb 16, 2019 10:41:37 GMT 1
Thanks John, I know exactly where to look.
Phil
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Post by philmill on Feb 18, 2019 20:26:37 GMT 1
So a bit more progress today, at last I got some headlamp brackets so can start to figure front end, I test fitted the clock mounting today and am not happy with the layout, the key is not in a good place. So to guys using RGV yokes and N1 clocks, have you mounted the clocks above or below the yoke mounting point? but if I go below I think the headlamp shell will become a problem, I cannot move the headlamp up as the sign switch is in the way. I'm trying it with the 4LO shell but hopefully the correct shell with be here tomorrow but I don't think it will help... s7%62yYTTU+LQT6bWrmSrw by Philip Millard, on Flickr sXvTq884TuiSb9v4TtxurA by Philip Millard, on Flickr F4st+pGDRnenI+blTEoWNw by Philip Millard, on Flickr
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Post by panzermatt on Feb 18, 2019 20:55:40 GMT 1
Looking out the window there, are you building this bike on mars??
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Post by andy748 on Feb 18, 2019 21:11:16 GMT 1
Looks like the handlebar clamp is on upside down, turn it around and you should be able to get to the ignition? Andy.
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Post by philmill on Feb 18, 2019 21:13:36 GMT 1
Looks like the handlebar clamp is on upside down, turn it around and you should be able to get to the ignition? Andy. Hi Andy, I can get it to if but its just very deep compared to the bars and clocks. I could try that if all else fails though, I'd have more room to get my hand to the key for sure. Phil
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 18, 2019 21:16:13 GMT 1
Looks like the clocks need to go below the yoke
Steve
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Post by andy748 on Feb 18, 2019 21:35:09 GMT 1
Hi Phil, a pre-requisite for my build was to have the clocks and headlamp in the factory position, so i cut up a set of Jap RZ250R 3hm1 headlight brackets and mated them to some M&P fork clamps, this worked well. Andy. IMG_2004 by Andrew Jolly, on Flickr
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Post by philmill on Feb 18, 2019 21:38:41 GMT 1
Hi Phil, a pre-requisite for my build was to have the clocks and headlamp in the factory position, so i cut up a set of Jap RZ250R 3hm1 headlight brackets and mated them to some M&P fork clamps, this worked well. Andy. IMG_2004 by Andrew Jolly, on Flickr Thats a clever idea, wouldn't have thought of that. TBH I am still not sure if I'm staying naked, I will have to paint the fairing to match even if I dont fit it. Phil
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Post by andy748 on Feb 18, 2019 21:42:38 GMT 1
As Steve has mentioned, drop the clocks to under the yokes, the N1/N2 bowl is chamfered at the back so fits almost snug against the clocks.Nice to have the choice of the fairing mate. Andy.
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Post by philmill on Feb 20, 2019 20:51:46 GMT 1
So a bit more progress today, sorted the clocks, they did need to go below the mounting! Power valve set up all sorted, engine is almost there, need to get some new jets and throttle cable and send the oil pump to Arrow for him to work his magic.. Anybody used Norbo's "better quality cables"? I need a throttle and clutch, I have read about issues using non-gen throttle cables, but he says his are good. thoughts??? Phil KdLjEEr%RJ2KYGJfmd98rg by Philip Millard, on Flickr b6zLWDNwRICm%hNXum%i8Q by Philip Millard, on Flickr j+5CNUAzTd+NIdzQd6teMA by Philip Millard, on Flickr
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Post by fozzy17 on Feb 20, 2019 21:45:00 GMT 1
What headlamp bracket is that Phil
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Post by philmill on Feb 20, 2019 21:49:01 GMT 1
Its from Alchemy Parts on eBay, I thought I'd try it as it was cheaper than the others I looked at, I'm happy with it, although I'm going to try it up the other way and see how it looks....
Phil
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Post by philmill on May 2, 2020 17:45:29 GMT 1
Well its been a while since I posted any progress on this, I've been fiddling on and off and am now pretty much there. Just need to save the pennies to pay doe the paint work. I'm thinking about putting on the old bits just to get an MOT then register it once things go back to normal. Anyway here's a pic of how its looking these days. flic.kr/p/2iWMB6z
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Post by philmill on May 2, 2020 17:46:14 GMT 1
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Post by markg64 on May 5, 2020 1:22:50 GMT 1
Looking very nice mate !!
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Post by markg64 on May 5, 2020 1:31:47 GMT 1
Its from Alchemy Parts on eBay, I thought I'd try it as it was cheaper than the others I looked at, I'm happy with it, although I'm going to try it up the other way and see how it looks.... Phil Leave em that way up mate, they look odd the other way. I've got the same for my LC (tried posting pic but upload failed) Mark
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Post by andy748 on May 5, 2020 8:17:53 GMT 1
Looks cracking Phil, you are converting me to twin horns on mine. Andy.
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Post by philmill on May 5, 2020 9:07:07 GMT 1
Looks cracking Phil, you are converting me to twin horns on mine. Andy. I do like the twin horns, Still have to make them work properly though, I bought ebay ones and they are pathetic, hoping I can just adjust them to make them work ok. IMG_1097 by Philip Millard, on Flickr
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Post by morgy on May 5, 2020 9:49:34 GMT 1
I have a similar set of headlight brackets to you and also tried to attach in different ways on my 4L1 hybrid, Although i prefer the look it caused issues with the headlight adjustment bracket, also caused the rear of the brackets to hit the tank and reduced the turn circle... IMG_0602 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr 769E2830-60C7-4CAB-9EDA-036C074E4A5E_1_201_a by mark morgan, on Flickr You may not have these issues with your YPVS
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Post by andy748 on May 5, 2020 10:16:03 GMT 1
Looks cracking Phil, you are converting me to twin horns on mine. Andy. I do like the twin horns, Still have to make them work properly though, I bought ebay ones and they are pathetic, hoping I can just adjust them to make them work ok. IMG_1097 by Philip Millard, on Flickr Just buy a twin horn harness off Norbo and lengthen it to the original connector under the tank, easy? Andy.
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Post by roach3 on May 7, 2020 16:01:44 GMT 1
I’ve had a pair of these replacement horns Only one worked and that one packed in a day later
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Post by philmill on May 7, 2020 16:03:47 GMT 1
I’ve had a pair of these replacement horns Only one worked and that one packed in a day later Yes, I fear they were a waste of money. The build quality is crap! anybody know what should be between the diaphragm and the front plate? Phil
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Post by 525bri on Mar 16, 2021 20:07:59 GMT 1
Has this build stalled Phil? Just read it all and it looks quality.
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Post by donkeychomp on Mar 16, 2021 22:46:16 GMT 1
Phil sadly left the forum. I'm hoping he comes back.
Alex
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 16, 2021 23:09:58 GMT 1
Phil sadly left the forum. I'm hoping he comes back. Alex Think he is back on Steve
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