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Post by dusty350 on Jun 12, 2018 6:50:43 GMT 1
Great info Mark. I will give it a go Dusty
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Post by morgy on Jun 12, 2018 21:23:13 GMT 1
had a very busy evening stripping and grinding down the frame to remove those horrid Jap and hybrid build welds. I desperately need a new/bigger compressor.. Also had my tyres removed so i can finish the wheel polishing..
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Post by stusco on Jun 12, 2018 21:25:14 GMT 1
Any particular brand
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 12, 2018 21:56:09 GMT 1
I got some today! Err, I left it in my truck. £4 at Tesco.
Alex
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Post by donkeychomp on Jun 12, 2018 22:00:27 GMT 1
Oven Pride mate
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Post by morgy on Jun 13, 2018 21:41:25 GMT 1
Had a couple of hours free to work on the bike this evening.. More grinding!!! I was able to 'finish' a couple of non structural parts on the frame... IMG_1454 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_1453 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_1446 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr One thing i HATE is crappy welding!!! If you ignore the Bling Rear sets and have a look where the swing arm bolt goes you can see how 'bad' the welding is, strong but ugly.. IMG_1441 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr These will be raked out and re-welded...
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Post by morgy on Jun 17, 2018 18:57:01 GMT 1
well most of the frame joints have either been cleaned up or ground out ready for re-welding, IMG_1462 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_1473 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_1467 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr Hopefully the frame will be ready to go of for blasting before i send it to a friend who is doing the welding but i thought i would check a few things and came up a little issue, with the Aftermarket Rad interfering with the Spondon yokes.. IMG_1479 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr The top of the Rad that came with the bike is also touching the frame just under the headstock.. IMG_1478 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr Adjusting the stops i can stop if from hitting the yokes but will reduce the lock and if i move the rad forward somehow it would reduce the lock even further..
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Post by morgy on Jun 21, 2018 17:41:06 GMT 1
I need some help to find a Rear Master that has 40mm hole spacing for my rear sets.. I mistakenly bought an R1 Brembo cylinder but the spacing is bot big some 60+mm I have this Brembo one but think its a little bulky.. IMG_0428 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr The height and fore&Aft position can be altered but not the angle IMG_1415 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 21, 2018 23:25:33 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Jun 24, 2018 16:46:23 GMT 1
trying to work out the routing of the rear Brake line for me to use a pressure switch for the rear light... I could take the easy route and fit it direct to the rear master cylinder but i would like to have everything as clean as possible with as much hidden as possible and very little sticking out. This is just mocked up (obviously) Not sure the cardboard would last long.. ;-) I plan to make some 2-3mm plate to go between the frame tubes to support the Brass T a si can not find anywhere that does a simple two way connector with a mounting hole.... I would like to ask for some advice on any possible issues with using this set up, I do need to source a bleed nipple to make sure the top section will not interfere with the oil bottle and the pressure switch should just fit on the front of the T. The swing arm does not touch any of the parts even when the swing arm is Push right up to the fame, Not that it would ever get that high anyway.. I would like to route the Pipe going to the calliper under the swing arm to hide it away, would this be a bad idea?? IMG_1514 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_1515 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_1516 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_1518 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr
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Post by bid on Jun 24, 2018 17:32:40 GMT 1
absolutally awesome, you've got this well in hand, great stuff cant wait to see how this unfolds, all the best, dave😀
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Post by morgy on Jun 27, 2018 21:30:01 GMT 1
I finally found a two way connector for the rear Brakes but had to source it from the states and might be sometime before it arrives as they were out of stock... My credit card has taken a thrashing this week!! New Giuliari seat has been ordered from P&K classics , New tank, side panels, and tail section also on order with Norbo.. New R&G paddock stand bobbins for the rear swinger..
Another little surprise today was i got the lower (hubs?) back from pitted forks.com as they had removed them for me as i snapped off the small 8 torx bit in the grub screw . More polishing to do this weekend!!!
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Post by johnno11 on Jul 6, 2018 20:47:18 GMT 1
Great looking build. 👍🏻
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Post by morgy on Jul 7, 2018 21:16:39 GMT 1
Thanks... i seem to be going backward rather than forward at the moment..
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Post by morgy on Jul 7, 2018 21:20:12 GMT 1
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Post by tipfinchy on Jul 8, 2018 10:28:09 GMT 1
looking good , I like the attention to detail on cleaning up the ugly welds is the rear set screw on rear sets for picking up the standard exhaust mount?
mart
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Post by morgy on Jul 8, 2018 14:53:11 GMT 1
looking good , I like the attention to detail on cleaning up the ugly welds is the rear set screw on rear sets for picking up the standard exhaust mount? mart Thanks Mart.. I do hate the ugly welds, Most will be re-welded soon once the frame has been blasted/stripped, Some will be left flush.. There is a plate on both sides over the top of the standard brackets...
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Post by morgy on Jul 8, 2018 16:27:35 GMT 1
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Post by morgy on Jul 8, 2018 16:33:09 GMT 1
After cleaning up the panels i offered up the Oil bottle and found it was rubbing on the underside of the bottle.. The gap is not perfect but i might send a little more time neatening it up when i have some more time to spend in the garage. IMG_1591 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr I think it's finally ready to go off to be stripped next week..
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Post by morgy on Jul 20, 2018 18:11:11 GMT 1
That feeling When you take your frame to be blasted and the guy informs you there finish will be too course and sends you to his mate who can dip it and strip it and it comes back rusty as F*ck.. IMG_1627 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_1628 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr IMG_1626 by mark.morgan07, on Flickr Even after spending an hour trying to remove the surface rust its still there.!!
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Post by marsbar350 on Jul 20, 2018 18:38:02 GMT 1
id be well f**ked off with that !!
cj ward in burton do a fantastic job with powder coating bike frames.theyd clean that up no problem reasonable price ad nice guys
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Post by loudpipes on Jul 20, 2018 18:51:48 GMT 1
Carn't see a problem with that finish, just wants sand blasting and powder coating to me.
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Post by headcoats on Jul 20, 2018 19:12:35 GMT 1
Get it blasted and coated asap so it doesn't wind you up too much
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Post by morgy on Jul 20, 2018 19:45:34 GMT 1
I was going to get it blasted first then welded up.. Had it stripped and now have to get it blasted... should have just blasted the dam thing in the first place....
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Post by morgy on Jul 20, 2018 19:46:37 GMT 1
id be well f**ked off with that !! cj ward in burton do a fantastic job with powder coating bike frames.theyd clean that up no problem reasonable price ad nice guys Oh I am Well F**ked off with it.... well not with it, the company who did it...
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Post by morgy on Jul 20, 2018 20:05:53 GMT 1
I am thinking about 2k paint finish rather than Powder, I know there has been many threads on here regarding this topic. 2k should give a better finish but powder is more durable so i've been told...
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Post by loudpipes on Jul 20, 2018 20:15:10 GMT 1
If you did have it blasted before you had it welded it would still of rusted like that after a day or two, even touching bare metal sweat starts it rusting. i dont see a problem finish welding it up sand blast it job done. TBH if you are thinking of putting a big power motor in it you need a lot more bracing.
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Post by marsbar350 on Jul 20, 2018 20:17:04 GMT 1
to do a really good paint job on a frame cost a fair few quid
get powder coated.mine was done at cj ward,unless I told youd think it was paint
theres some top bike builders on here that use them
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Post by morgy on Jul 21, 2018 8:07:32 GMT 1
If you did have it blasted before you had it welded it would still of rusted like that after a day or two, even touching bare metal sweat starts it rusting. i dont see a problem finish welding it up sand blast it job done. TBH if you are thinking of putting a big power motor in it you need a lot more bracing. Oh.. where would it need more bracing?
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Post by morgy on Jul 21, 2018 8:12:33 GMT 1
to do a really good paint job on a frame cost a fair few quid get powder coated.mine was done at cj ward,unless I told youd think it was paint theres some top bike builders on here that use them Yes thanks.. I used to be a panel beater, restoration, Im dreading the paint prep and i still know a man who can, My main thing is the finish. The only powder i've seen hasn't been that glossy but that was a few years ago... Anyone got any Comparison photos..
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