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Post by monstermash on Dec 4, 2017 12:03:24 GMT 1
I am leaking oil from the gear selector shaft, I have replaced the seal but its still leaking and its a little more than just a drip. I really need to strip the engine down to carry out the mod but i haven't got the time just yet and I also want to use the bike and enjoy it for a while so has anyone got a good bodge that will reduce or even stop the oil leak temporary.
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Post by markhoopy on Dec 4, 2017 12:26:20 GMT 1
Drain the oil from your engine  |
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Post by ukcalling on Dec 4, 2017 13:35:47 GMT 1
From memory there was another seal (deeper), you could use that moved the seal point further out on the shaft as normally caused by wear of the shaft itself
Would be worth doing a search for that
Nick
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Post by 4l04ever on Dec 4, 2017 14:00:20 GMT 1
You do not need to fully strip the engine to change the gear selector shaft, but you would need to take the clutch cover and clutch off.
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Post by monstermash on Dec 4, 2017 14:54:57 GMT 1
I will have a look for the bigger seal, need to strip the engine to do the bush mod ...i thought
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 4, 2017 16:05:54 GMT 1
You can bush the outside flywheel casing which will give you the best support for your gear changer shaft.
If you decide to pull the shaft, a bodge I have used effectively is to fill the groove made by the oil seal with a liquid metal. I have always used Wencom there is no particular reason for this choice except I get it for free.
Fill the groove and sand it down with fine emerycloth. Remember with this sort of fix preparation is everything,make sure it is clean and decreased.
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 4, 2017 17:38:11 GMT 1
The seal you need is double lipped. Cant remember who on here did it but someone will confirm I'm sure  Dusty  |
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Post by dave1963 on Dec 4, 2017 18:46:13 GMT 1
Hi you could try a double lip seal from here www.bearing-king.co.uk/12 x 22 x 7 R23 I have used these but ended up having to put a bush in the casing to support the shaft |
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Post by monstermash on Dec 4, 2017 19:07:53 GMT 1
Actually i didn't realize that the modded support bush is in the left engine casing i was under the impression the mod was behind the seal and the upper and lower engine casings had to be separated, makes sense i suppose as that is where the majority of the push pull force is.
Thanks again all i will get in touch with bearing king
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 4, 2017 20:09:16 GMT 1
Hi
The bush mod is in the crank case itself as you thought. The steel gear shaft wears the ally casing over time allowing more oil than normal to pass it, giving the seal a harder time.
Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 4, 2017 20:35:19 GMT 1
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Post by copper99 on Dec 4, 2017 21:01:15 GMT 1
Hi you could try a double lip seal from here www.bearing-king.co.uk/12 x 22 x 7 R23 I have used these but ended up having to put a bush in the casing to support the shaft Dave is right, that spec of seal helped reduce the drip a little for a couple of years, mine got so bad this year I now have the engine apart to rectify it with the bush and a new selector rod. I feel your frustration mate as I discovered this well known issue after having the engine rebuilt, which was bloody annoying but this topic comes up fairly frequently so your not alone! Be mindful that the oil creeps along the underneath of the bike & along the swingarm so keep an eye on it.. |
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Post by monstermash on Dec 4, 2017 21:06:15 GMT 1
When moving the gear shift up and down it really does translate to a lot of sideways movement where it passes through the left case, PJ engineering in Wolverhampton are not to far from me i will give them a ring in the morning as i would rather have it c**k on also try for the best seal possible and keep fingers crossed as i do not want a strip down yet.
Thanks all
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Post by monstermash on Dec 4, 2017 22:28:49 GMT 1
Just removed the cover and im not so sure oil is coming from gear selector shaft seal as it looks fairly dry around the seal area the oily wet area is a little more forward and below the clutch push rod seal. I didn't replace this seal im guessing that the area behind the seal is oil washed when the engine is running, both push rod and gear selector shaft have wear to them when they pass through either outer cover and push rod to seal. I will need to check availability of the push rod and seal tomorrow and take it from there also deal with the selector shaft & dial out a future issue.
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Post by 4l04ever on Dec 4, 2017 22:51:26 GMT 1
Clutch pushrod and seal are still available and not too expensive.
You can clean up all around the front sprocket area with degreaser then you may be able to see where the oil is actually coming from.
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Post by monstermash on Dec 5, 2017 7:12:49 GMT 1
It is all clean there as I did this when i first had it, I will put it on the side stand over night and see if anything weeps out
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Post by dusty350 on Dec 5, 2017 9:23:55 GMT 1
Hi Wedge some clean kitchen paper around each seal overnight and you'll see where it's coming from by the morning. If it is clutch pushrod/seal, Fowlers have both in stock. Pushrod part number is - 328 16357 00, £7.88. Seal is 237 15389 00, £2.94. Also check the neutral switch cover as they can weep. More rarely the blanking plugs can weep too - they were rubber seals on the aircooled bikes but ally plugs on these. Good luck Dusty |
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 5, 2017 12:46:57 GMT 1
there are several common areas that leak in and around there, the one most people miss is the gear selector rod blanking plugs (2 of), these leak more than you think, so check those, I use JB weld to seal around them, I do it on every engine I build now as a precaution.
Also, neutral light switch, another very common source of oil leaks, the gear selector shaft for sure, the double lip seal works well and should help stave off a rebuild/repair for a while
I am assuming here its a YPVS engine, if an LC then it needs to be machined accurately first, so nigh on impossible to do in situ
YPVS Only
it is possible, but bloody fiddly to replace the bush without splitting the engine, but you do need to remove the clutch side etc and pull the gear shaft out, then carefully cut the old bush using a ground down hacksaw blade to split it in 2 places Or a dremel wth a small cutter), the bush halves should then just come out, then wash with loads of WD40/GT85 to remove any filings etc, fit the new bush, ideally using a mandrel to stop the bush being damaged as you fit it
Then put back together with a new seal etc, if the shaft is worn/grooved, then fit a new one, approx £75 I think for the shaft these days, fill the engine with oil (cheap stuff as you are going to flush it out), run it all up, get it warm and drain the oil, this will remove any filings that got inside the engine, then fill up again and job done
HTH
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Post by rd350rob on Dec 13, 2017 11:57:47 GMT 1
Drain the oil from your engine If you leave it long enough, it'll drain itself! |
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Post by looey on Dec 13, 2017 13:29:29 GMT 1
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Post by botty on Dec 13, 2017 21:34:00 GMT 1
Never dripped a drop . REALLY 😜 |
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Post by looey on Dec 13, 2017 23:01:14 GMT 1
Never dripped a drop . REALLY 😜 Yes, REALLY !!!, and I deeply resemble that comment Mr Botty  |
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Post by botty on Dec 14, 2017 18:07:11 GMT 1
Never dripped a drop . REALLY 😜 Yes, REALLY !!!, and I deeply resemble that comment Mr Botty 😂😂 |
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