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Post by earthman on Oct 24, 2017 21:55:28 GMT 1
I maybe wrong but I don't think that you can fully go by a continuity test to determine whether or not a spark plug is faulty, it's a basic test, once heat etc is in the mix, then plugs can start playing up.
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Post by reedpete on Oct 24, 2017 22:13:49 GMT 1
I maybe wrong but I don't think that you can fully go by a continuity test to determine whether or not a spark plug is faulty, it's a basic test, once heat etc is in the mix, then plugs can start playing up. ...but if they test open circuit then they are defo faulty. If they test short circuit they just might be ok ...other tests needed to confirm a whole pile of other things. |
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Post by earthman on Oct 24, 2017 22:31:10 GMT 1
I maybe wrong but I don't think that you can fully go by a continuity test to determine whether or not a spark plug is faulty, it's a basic test, once heat etc is in the mix, then plugs can start playing up. ...but if they test open circuit then they are defo faulty. If they test short circuit they just might be ok ...other tests needed to confirm a whole pile of other things. Yes, that's true, a quick check for 'open circuit' is a good idea I guess. |
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Post by earthman on Jan 22, 2018 20:43:34 GMT 1
Now either I'm experiencing these fake plugs twice or something on my bike is killing one off prematurely.  First set of plugs that came with the bike worked fine, I probably racked up about 100 miles or so until the firing of one cylinder started to play up, I quickly swapped the plugs around to confirm that the problem were with the plug. I then bought a couple of brand new BR9ES's from Euro Car Parts, probably done another 60 miles or so until the left cylinder started to play up (can't remember if it were the same cylinder the first time around), anyway I fitted the good plug that were left over from the first set, engine runs fine. Used a multi meter on the this latest duff plug, from terminal to the tip I'm getting a reading of 5.86ohm, from terminal to the nut/metal body I'm getting 42.4ohm.  The good plug gives a terminal to tip reading of around 4.6ohm, no reading from terminal to the nut/metal body of plug. Anyone else had this issue? Could it be the ignition coil that's killing these plugs early? |
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Post by earthman on Jan 22, 2018 23:38:10 GMT 1
Not found any hints/tips pointing towards my particular problem yet, just learnt a couple of things about spark plugs in general,....never heard about having to tighten ones so that the tip actually lines up with the placement of an injector. |
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Post by earthman on Jan 23, 2018 20:30:59 GMT 1
I see that the Haynes workshop manual only lists NGK B8ES plugs for this bike,....maybe this is my problem??
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Post by gci_scot on Jan 23, 2018 21:25:10 GMT 1
Had to check mine ! all legit from wemoto. B8ES as said.
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Post by earthman on Jan 27, 2018 20:25:59 GMT 1
Used a multi meter on the this latest duff plug, from terminal to the tip I'm getting a reading of 5.86ohm, from terminal to the nut/metal body I'm getting 42.4ohm. I had a closer look/inspection of this plug today, having only done 60 miles or so, the electrode etc still looks like brand new, I used a needle thin piece of wire and gently placed it down as far as it would go between the insulator and metal body, run it around the best I could,.... then a microscopic piece of carbon I guess fell out. Now I'm not getting that 42.4ohm reading.  |
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