I thought I'd show you the petrol tank off the NOS build from last year.
To refresh your memories the tank had been lined by the previous owner, repainted but started to blister. That is when I bought the bike.
Now the tank didn't look that bad, but I got a really clean replacement as I didn't want to take any chances.
So I had the tank kicking around (thinking I might use it on the 550) and tried to get the old liner out with a bit of success, using acetone. This loosened the liner (which looked like resin) but then it was near impossible to get the large chunks out of the tank.
interesting photos . I am in the process of repairing a tzr250 tank. I had the same sort of scene about 20yrs ago with my own lc 350 ,tank leaking so strip the paint off and find plenty of holes.so cut the underside out and oh dear. in the end I lucked on a couple of solid tanks but they both needed work dent wise because they both had enough filler to qualify for a share price on the stock exchange. lol.
Was looking into doing this a while ago, there were a few TZ triple racers built back in the day. This PDF isnt as good as the last one I found but shows they effectivly bolted on the extra bit to the generator side of the engine.
Good luck with the s/solder Mark Took me 4 tries to do mine before it stopped leaking My mate brought his round with more holes than mine and I did it first time So mixed results
Silly question but why didn't you try it while it was apart?
Hi Matt, the tank is pretty knackered, I think there's about 60 odd pin holes in it!
I've repaired tanks before with silver solder, I drill the pin holes out to get to solid metal, make a tapered pin out of steel to plug the hole, then solder.
I'll post up photo's later.
To answer your question (not silly), I was worried about the temperature of the welding affecting the silver solder.
The plan has always been line the tank with POR15 but I cut the bottom of the tank out to properly de-rust and remove all of the old liner. This is more of an experiment to see if I can get the tank leak free. I'll see how it turns out.
I've got another tank to blast and de-rust that I will probably use for the build.
If that ones knackered then I'll have to source another tank.
Keep the questions coming, I'm glad to answer them.
Thanks Mark (hoopy), two bars are placed and clamped in place for final welding. Allen Millyard uses this method, as it stops the cases warping and aligns all the bearing surfaces up. The bars are the exact diameter of the bearings.
hblair, thanks for your interest, but there is no need to line bore.
Twostrokebrit, you are quite right, if you line bore, you'd need either bigger bearings or sleeves,
Kevtherev, You're a man after my own heart. Love the comment