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Post by JonW on Mar 23, 2015 1:41:27 GMT 1
Pulling a set of LC legs apart and Ive got two problems:
1, the lower bolt just spins on one of em, is this a case of pulling the spring out and shoving a wooden pole down to lock the parts in place while i undo, or something else?
2, whats the best method for pulling out the spring clip holding the caps? so far im strugging to do this without resorting to asking for the help of a neighbour lol
Ta!
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Post by steven on Mar 23, 2015 2:12:48 GMT 1
Hi jon, ...sorry to others as I have posted these pics before on here somewhere before, here is the tool I made, so as I could howk the circlips out my forks without the need of an assistant, if you have someone to assist that is fine too , as one compresses the plug/spring and one digs the circlip out. steven.      ps, the bit that clamps round the fork stansion is lined with rubber so as to not mark or damage it. |
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Post by JonW on Mar 23, 2015 2:56:32 GMT 1
wow, nice work! I think it might be a bit quicker for me to find an assistant than build one of those tho LOL
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Post by sp885 on Mar 23, 2015 5:21:52 GMT 1
A few beers always gets some help Jon  |
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Post by steeley on Mar 23, 2015 8:02:53 GMT 1
jon hi,yes the top plug is a bit of a pain to push down on your own.you could try a socket on the plug and wedge the leg under a bench to compress the plug down a bit. Steven you could set yourself up in business making these special tools lol.
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Post by steven on Mar 23, 2015 9:34:07 GMT 1
Hi Steely, I very much doubt that I will make my millions and retire to the Cayman Islands knocking out these simple tools, but thank you for the kind words of encouragement. steven. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cayman_Islands |
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Post by JonW on Mar 23, 2015 10:49:59 GMT 1
Ive already tried wedging a blunt punch under the bench and pushing down and then trying to use a pick to get at the clip, it didnt end as well as Id have liked LOL I'll have to ask the mrs... she loves it really |
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Post by JonW on Mar 23, 2015 10:50:15 GMT 1
So, any thoughts on my bottom bolt guys?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 10:50:15 GMT 1
That's a lovely bit of work Steven, but I'd be inclined to ply the neighbour with ale and get an extra pair of hands. Is fiddly but easyish with 2 people.
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Post by oldelsieboy on Mar 23, 2015 12:24:44 GMT 1
So, any thoughts on my bottom bolt guys? After struggling for what seemed like days I eventually drilled the head off the bolt. The remaining bolt was easy to remove once the forks were dismantled. Maybe I was lucky that the innards didn't spin when the drill bit made contact with the bolt head. To remove the top clip I hold the fork leg in a Workmate vice & use a socket/screwdriver handle (see pic) which locates into the dimple in the plug.  Pressing down using my bodyweight is enough to compress the spring giving access to the clip. I then use a small flat blade watch makers screwdriver behind the clip, on the opposite side to the gap, & lever it out, simples OEB |
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Post by johnlc on Mar 23, 2015 13:32:18 GMT 1
I've always loosened the bottom bolt while it's still on bike just enough not to leak then take the clips out while still in bike ,forks always come apart easy enough for me this way
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speedjunkie_69
L plate rider.
pulling the trigger on my restoration. Been too long sitting in the corner of my garage
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Post by speedjunkie_69 on Mar 23, 2015 14:29:35 GMT 1
to get the top cap off I cleaned the fork tube and dust cap with some brake cleaner and then wrapped them using some shipping tape. The forks can't compress making it much easier to remove the spring. I did have the fork leg (caliper lugs) clamped into a pair of soft jaws on my vice though
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Post by steve h on Mar 23, 2015 15:43:58 GMT 1
The bottom bolt, Allen bolt? Fit allen key in, and then a suitable extension to the small "L" section of the allen key. Now t*at it with a hammer, mallet, and shock the bolt into turning. This has never failed me when undoing a spinning bottom fork bolt, with the spring and plug and its fiddly circlip still in fork. (Even use a 10mm ring spanner on the allen key for an extention to clout  ) |
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Post by JonW on Mar 23, 2015 23:05:40 GMT 1
Thanks guys, yeah my problem with the lower bolt is only that it spins, not that i cant undo it. In fact it came to me undone... hmm, not a good sign. I actually am the same as johnlc in that its the way i always do it and Ive never had a problem this way. If someone else had posed this question last week id have said the same, but this one has me stumped.
So, Im guessing no one has pulled the spring and used a wooden rod to hold the lower part still in order to get at the lower bolt?
I like OEBs tip to use the small socket handle and then pull the clip from the side opposite the gap, I will try that next.
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Post by yamark on Mar 24, 2015 18:56:14 GMT 1
As said, I always try to loosen the lower bolt before uncompressing the spring. Jamming a long bit of wood is next if the bolt spins. If that fails , usually one fork leg comes apart. I then check the shape in the damper, get a bolt head to fit by grinding it, lock two nuts on the bolt thread and use a socket and a few extension bars to reach the damper using the new adapted bolt. Hold a T bar in a vice and it will come apart. HTH and good luck
Mark |
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Post by muttsnuts on Mar 24, 2015 19:51:19 GMT 1
I have a long flat peice of steel that fits inside the castlelated fork inner, which the allen key screws into, I can measure it you want (width and length), then all you do is hold that in a vice, slide your fork tube over it until it engages with the castlelated part of the fork inner, that then holds it in place while you undo the allen bolt
HTH
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Post by Tone on Mar 24, 2015 21:46:30 GMT 1
Yamaha actually list a special tool for holding the damper rod part number 90890-01294 that fits on the end of a T bar but is quite expensive but I found that Suzuki list one that is basically the same tool part number 09940-34561-000 that you can fit on a couple of 3/8 extension bars that does the same job. Got one from Fowlers last year for about £20 but looks like they are back ordered at the moment.
Tone
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Post by JonW on Mar 24, 2015 22:40:06 GMT 1
I have a long flat peice of steel that fits inside the castlelated fork inner, which the allen key screws into, I can measure it you want (width and length), then all you do is hold that in a vice, slide your fork tube over it until it engages with the castlelated part of the fork inner, that then holds it in place while you undo the allen bolt HTH Thats would be great thanks mate! |
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Post by JonW on Mar 24, 2015 22:41:43 GMT 1
As said, I always try to loosen the lower bolt before uncompressing the spring. Jamming a long bit of wood is next if the bolt spins. If that fails , usually one fork leg comes apart. I then check the shape in the damper, get a bolt head to fit by grinding it, lock two nuts on the bolt thread and use a socket and a few extension bars to reach the damper using the new adapted bolt. Hold a T bar in a vice and it will come apart. HTH and good luck
Mark Yes I always do the end bolts before dismantling the spring, the tension usually hols it in place of course. Like the tool build, has to be better than the wooden pole thing, Ive never found that work for me yet :/ |
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Post by JonW on Mar 24, 2015 22:42:42 GMT 1
Yamaha actually list a special tool for holding the damper rod part number 90890-01294 that fits on the end of a T bar but is quite expensive but I found that Suzuki list one that is basically the same tool part number 09940-34561-000 that you can fit on a couple of 3/8 extension bars that does the same job. Got one from Fowlers last year for about £20 but looks like they are back ordered at the moment. Tone Suzi tools are great VFM I think compared to Yam. I couldnt find any on ebay but the usual US sellers list them for something <$20 but post is the killer. |
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Post by bare on Mar 26, 2015 4:39:26 GMT 1
Stuff a Pointed stick into it. A modded Broom handle works well.
Don't quite understand what the problem is.. if the Rods threads aren't damaged, tightening up that Socket head bolt should be easy peasy
A small impact Gun is Also worth it's weight :-) With one of those you don't even need to hold the rod from spinning.
Easiest to refit the Top Fork plug when the Fork tube is Clamped in the Triple Clamp.
At a lower portion of the tube tho the clamp can deform the tube end just enough to prevent thread engagement
That frees up both hands for the compressing whilst trying to engage the threads task.
Bit of a pain but fairly easy, at least it seems so once the job is done.
Unless one has fitted High rate springs and a spacer.. No joke that.
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Post by Tone on Mar 26, 2015 7:22:13 GMT 1
Seem to remember when I did the fork seals on my LC2 I ordered some new damper rod bolts and they came with threadlock already on the bolts which required the damper rod to be held while you screwed them in.
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Post by JonW on Mar 26, 2015 12:09:39 GMT 1
I have a rattle gun bare, it still just spins, another reason to get it out. these are spare forks that I bought, not on a bike, so Ive no idea on if this is the issue with them and why they werent fitted. They came sans triples, so gripping on the bike isnt a possibility for me. A friend came round to beg use of my flywheel holding tool, so I used him to press down the tops Just got to remove the rest of the gubbins tomorrow and see whats going on with these now... |
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