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Post by dusty350 on Mar 17, 2014 21:14:01 GMT 1
Hi Had a spare F2 frame sat behind the shed, and now the Teezer is on the back burner, I dug the frame out and started thinking what I could do with it. Basically, I have the frame and a spare Tzr Belgarda tank, and I have seen a bike with the tank fitted; So, do I chop the frame around to get the Belgarda tank to fit, or leave it for an F2 tank ? Fancy a race style seat unit, so the back end will be re worked. I am in the process of cutting off all unwanted lugs and brackets. It would run with pods or a Y boot, so no airbox. Relocate a battery somewhere under the seat. I think the Tzr125 forks fit the Ypvs headstock with minimal fuss too Mmmmm Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 18, 2014 20:06:10 GMT 1
So, this is the frame; This was the original frame from the Yamasaki project bike. It had been modded for a Cbr600 seat unit and side panels. It has also had plates welded in for the Kr1 shock linkage. I was going to bin this but decided to do some work on it and make it like a race bike frame. All unwanted lugs are getting cut off, and once I decide what sort of seat unit will be fitted, I will know how much to chop off the back ! Needs a plate welded in to repair some rust damage; This is the Tzr spare tank offered up; As you can see, to get it to fit would require some work at the front and back. Not sure if I want to alter the frame to the point I couldn't use an F2 tank again, so may forget the Tzr tank idea. I read on the aircooled forum about a member who slotted a Tzr 4dl upside down front end straight into an aircooled frame, which means it should slot straight into a Ypvs frame. I am thinking about robbing thr Tzr project of its running gear and engine for this frame ! Decisions decisions !! Dusty
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Post by tell7437 on Mar 18, 2014 22:14:18 GMT 1
Plug the grinder in & go for it before you talk yourself out of it, the frame has been modded already
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Post by Yogi on Mar 18, 2014 22:51:30 GMT 1
;)I think you should carry on with the teezer and collect more parts for the F2 on the way, I had more than one on the go and it got too messy,,so now I try to finish one at a time,,got most parts for my next project but I won't start it even though I'm waiting on everyone else and can't do jack at the moment,,just my opinion Dusty boy,,its your call mate
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 19, 2014 9:05:59 GMT 1
Hi, You're right, too many projects does get messy ! The Tzr has now stalled due to pipes. They are the stumbling block due to cost, and the fact the bike would have to be shipped to a pipe builder for bespoke pipes to be made. The Ypvs frame was going out for the scrap man, but I then thought I had nothing to lose by messing around with it and making a café racer style frame. Having seen the silver bike in this thread, and having a spare 4dl tank, I thought I might try that. The scallop in the tank doesn't sit right with the Ypvs frame imo, and on the Tzr, there is a corresponding scallop which makes it look right. Ideally, I would build this with an F2 tank, a race style single seat and Kr1 running gear as that's what it had originally. What's more likely to happen though is I'll finish chopping bits off and then it'll sit inside the shed until my numbers come up !! Having a running Ypvs engine in the Tzr is tempting, and getting pipes for a valve is obviously easier and cheaper. I could also utilise the alloy oil tank from the Teezer if I went with autolube, as it's a shame not to use it. Dusty
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matt7
Thrash Merchant
Smell of the 2 stroke & the roar of the crowd
Posts: 445
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Post by matt7 on Mar 19, 2014 9:18:03 GMT 1
Hi, You're right, too many projects does get messy ! The Tzr has now stalled due to pipes. They are the stumbling block due to cost, and the fact the bike would have to be shipped to a pipe builder for bespoke pipes to be made. The Ypvs frame was going out for the scrap man, but I then thought I had nothing to lose by messing around with it and making a café racer style frame. Having seen the silver bike in this thread, and having a spare 4dl tank, I thought I might try that. The scallop in the tank doesn't sit right with the Ypvs frame imo, and on the Tzr, there is a corresponding scallop which makes it look right. Ideally, I would build this with an F2 tank, a race style single seat and Kr1 running gear as that's what it had originally. What's more likely to happen though is I'll finish chopping bits off and then it'll sit inside the shed until my numbers come up !! Having a running Ypvs engine in the Tzr is tempting, and getting pipes for a valve is obviously easier and cheaper. I could also utilise the alloy oil tank from the Teezer if I went with autolube, as it's a shame not to use it. Dusty Silver bike is one of my favourite's , recon you'd be hard pushed to get a fatter set of pipes lol, hardcore cafefighter so cool 4dl tank looks the biz in my humble op, and gents this stuff mentioned above about too many bikes n projects, it's all lies ! No such thing as too many, you just gotta get good at doing, not looking lol "Sell, don't buy, sell, don't buy, sell don't buy" & on & on - i'm gonna try this as a new workshop meditation chant, Law of Attraction & all that
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 19, 2014 10:09:53 GMT 1
Hi Matt, The Tzr tank is a lovely tank, and the fact it's made from plastic and will never rust is a major bonus. If it wasn't for the scalloped sides, I'd be chopping the Ypvs frame for it to fit, but I feel the tank needs to follow the lines of the frame like a standard F2 tank does. I may, of course, change my mind again as I seem to do that often !. It is nice having more than 1 project, but I end up spreading the costs between too many bikes and then nothing gets finished . The Tzr money should really have been used to finish the Yamasaki, but then I wouldn't have had any cash for the Tzr when it came up. I'm sure I'm not alone !! Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 20, 2014 20:21:24 GMT 1
Hi Finished chopping bits off the frame for the time being. This is what came off; There is nothing left on the frame that wont be used. The last bits to be cut off are the very end tubes with the grab rail mounts on, but I wont do them until I have a seat sorted; I even removed the centre stand mount as it will have a side stand only; Next logical step is to take the frame and my F2 tank from the Yamasaki to somewhere like Meadspeed, and offer up some race seats to see which suits it best. Once that's done, I will know what supports need welding in, plus where to mount the battery and some other bits and bobs, and then it can go off to my local engineering place to get sorted. Dusty
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Post by Yogi on Mar 20, 2014 20:35:22 GMT 1
:PCor Dusty you have been hard at it,,I'm surprised there's any frame left,,good luck with the build mate
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Post by 1966baz on Mar 20, 2014 20:44:32 GMT 1
Looks exciting already, lost a few pounds in weight aswell. Makes me want to start another YPVS Project, but must finish my ZED project first.
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Post by bazzer5115 on Mar 20, 2014 23:02:52 GMT 1
I think the seat unit in the picture is a honda rs250 race seat,I was going to fit one on my honda cbr 400 track/race bike but never got round to it. The problem with using an F2 tank is the overflow pipe spigot at the back of tank. I thinking about building a bike like the one in the picture to fit my 421cc engine in. I also have a spare frame which I am also going to chop about to fit various different parts . What tank if fitted to that bike,as that is the look am want to achieve . Cheers
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 21, 2014 7:55:23 GMT 1
Hi, The tank is a standard item from a Tzr125 4dl Belgarda. It's made from a thick plastic by Acerbis. It has two taps, 1 high up the tank and 1 lower. If you keep the higher tap connected it will foul on the plastic mount that holds all the electrical items under the tank. You would need to make a mounting point for the front bracket to bolt it to the frame. The existing F2 tank mount on the frame would have to be modded as it sits high as you can see in the first picture. The rear F2 frame mount would need cutting out and moving back. The scollops in the side of the tank means you can see the plastic mounting plate under the tank, which may not be the biggest problem in the world, but to me, will make it look a bit messy. Not sure if the electrical items touch the underside of the tank, I haven't got that far. The upside is, it can be done, obviously, the tank will never rust and it does look trick. Plus they are fairly cheap compared to an F2 tank, if you can find a good one which is increasingly hard to do. I need to find the thread that silver bike is in, cant remember exactly where I found it now ! When I do, i'll link it for you. The builder is a very talented fella, it's got a trick engine in it which he built himself I believe.
Regards
Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 28, 2014 20:01:17 GMT 1
Hi, Now the Tzr has been stripped down, I am starting to see what I can use from it on this frame. The plan is for a café racer style F2. As minimalist as possible. I have decided against using the 4dl tank, although I was very tempted what with it being plastic and rust free ! I will use an F2 tank and a fibreglass race style seat. I will fit the battery, and hopefully an oil tank under the seat hump. I plan to use the oil tank that was on the Tzr; The frame is going to need some fabrication work to mount the seat and battery/oil tank. I have a local firm who have done work for me before so I will be taking the frame to them at different stages of the build. First obstacle is the front end. There is a big difference in yokes; The small yoke is an Lc item, but you get the idea. Muttsnuts is kindly sending me some taper bearings that will hopefully allow fitment of the 4dl yokes as the bearings on them are too large for the headstock. The 4dl stem is the same diameter, but a fair bit longer although that isn't a problem. If I can get them in, then forks, wheel, mudguard, front brake and bars and controls are all sorted. I have a nice digital speedo that was going on the Tzr, but will now go on this. I'm using the Ypvs engine that was in the Tzr as I know it's a runner. I had the head off today and the bores are good, pistons are on +75 and look good. I have some 31k carbs and a Y boot to go on it. I plan on a standard F2 swingarm set up, meaning I need to mod the underside of the frame as plates were welded in for a different swinger in the past. Forum member Mick White tells me I can use the 4dl rear wheel with a 2ma sprocket carrier, and luckily I have one of those already. I was going to use the R6 rearsets with an adaptor plate, but won some cheap F2 footrests today on ebay, and will chop them about and use them instead. I need pipes and fancy some small can Gibson Allspeeds this time, but that's a long way off. Dusty
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Post by Eyrey1 on Mar 28, 2014 21:35:01 GMT 1
JUST READ ALL THIS GOOD LUCK WITH THE BUILD MATE like the bike in the first pic , id like it in my garage !
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 29, 2014 23:18:27 GMT 1
Hi Gary, I cant find the thread with that bike in at the mo, but it is nice. The guy that built it is very talented, and has done some serious work to the engine. It's a fair bit of work to get the tank to fit too. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 29, 2014 23:42:06 GMT 1
Hi, Dave aka Muttsnuts, kindly sent me some Lc taper headrace bearings that look like they will work. Bottom bearing is really tight, but hopefully will fit once I've frozen the yoke. It will need a spacer under the bottom bearing though. I was wondering if the Rgv spacer that Norbo sells would fit ? I haven't done a proper measurement yet but would need something approx. 5 or 6mm thick, and with the internal diameter of an Lc bottom bearing and the outer diameter of an Lc bottom bearing. Anyone done an Rgv yoke and used the spacer ? If so, would you know the dims ?
Cheers
Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 30, 2014 21:46:43 GMT 1
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 1, 2014 10:01:11 GMT 1
Hi, Just ordered a bearing spacer from Norbo, and the yoke will be going in the freezer tonight ! I think I've sourced a swingarm from Leaky, so when I get that I will be able to offer up the 4dl wheel. I want to use the brembo caliper and carrier for the rear wheel as I have already got them, so I will need to get a plate welded to the swingarm so I can use a torque arm. The list of jobs needing doing to the frame is getting longer. I need to repair the rust damage, alter the lock stops, alter the mount for the suspension linkage and I also want to add some strengthening plates in key areas whilst I'm at it. Subframe for the seat will need doing at a later date as well as a mount for the battery, oil tank and some electrical items. If I can get the front end in this week I'll be pleased. Regards Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 3, 2014 22:23:08 GMT 1
Hi, This is now a viable Ypvs/Tzr project bike. It all depended on if the front end fitted without any hassle as I need to be able to use as much of the Tzr parts as possible to keep costs down. The Tzr yoke bearings wont fit into the Ypvs headstock, the bottom bearing is too wide to fit into the lower part of the headstock, and the top bearing is too deep to sit in properly. I had to butcher the bottom bearing to get it off the stem. Muttsnuts kindly sent me some standard sized Lc taper bearings and shells to get me started. I also needed a bearing spacer from Norbo. I put the yoke in the freezer for a couple of hours today and warmed up the oven and placed the bottom Lc taper bearing in it for 5 minutes. The spacer is made from aluminium and needed some filing to get it to fit snugly on the stem. Then, with a very cold yoke out of the freezer, I dropped the warm bearing onto the stem, fully expecting to drift it into place, but it slid all the way down onto the spacer with no problem at all 2 minutes later and I couldn't budge it so job done; So, Tzr yoke, Lc bearing and Rgv spacer meets Ypvs headstock. Lc top bearing fits with no issue, so that's the yokes installed; My Tzr had a custom top yoke, so there are some spacers to make it work with the stem, but I imagine a standard yoke would fit fine. Forks and wheel go in as they should; There is a gap between the bottom of the yoke and the underside of the bearing where there would be a seal, so a quick trip to the plumbers merchants got me a suitably sized "O" ring that did the job. Everything runs smoothly, but I will need to mod the lockstops; I'm happy with the front end. Next is to get a Ypvs swingarm and get the Tzr wheel and parts to fit. Watch this space ! Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 4, 2014 8:15:42 GMT 1
Hi, Forgot to add, I had to cut out the plates that had been welded in for a different suspension set up. They had been welded onto the existing lower mounts and had to come out otherwise I wouldn't have got a Ypvs linkage in. Due to the amount of weld used, I opted to take the frame into work and got a heavy duty Dewalt saw onto it. Still took some time, but I had already ground down some of the weld to expose the join between the existing mount and the plate that needed removing, and I carefully cut along the fine line to remove the plates. Also, my bargain ebay footrests turned up yesterday; I will chop off the rear of the footrests as they wont be needed, and they'll look like my Yamasaki items; More soon. Dusty
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Apr 7, 2014 21:57:32 GMT 1
You definitely went to town on the frame, shaping up nicely, keep up the good work
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 11, 2014 20:58:06 GMT 1
Hi, Got a tank for this project now, originally off the Yamasaki; Hoping to sort a race seat in the next week and than I can think about getting the frame mods done. I need to get some steel plate that I will shape and then get welded in. Need a couple of plates to repair some damage, a plate for the lock stops, and some strengthening plates, plus some arrangement for the seat once I have it, battery box etc. More soon. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 17, 2014 15:45:19 GMT 1
Hi, Starting to collect some parts for this project now. Won a seat off ebay from a member on here, just waiting for it to arrive. When it does, I will be able to see what needs doing to make it fit. I've also made some templates for some bracing plates and the steering lock stop. There is a fair bit of work to do with the frame but I want to get it sorted as soon as possible so I can move it forward. Leaky sent me a plastic electrics tray for under the tank, plus an F2 swingarm. I offered up the 4dl wheel to the arm today; It fits with little effort really. The wheel spindles are the same diameter, although Im using the pv spindle as the 4dl spindle is too short. The 4dl caliper carrier will need trimming so it sits properly inside the arm, and the spacer on the chain side has been substituted for a 400 item I had as it's slightly narrower. The swingarm will get the original caliper carrier guide and hose guide mount chopped of, and a bracket will be welded onto the top of the arm so I can use a torque arm for the rear brake set up. The tyre fitted is a 150, and I think it should be 140, so that will gain some space in the arm too. Dusty
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Post by 1966baz on Apr 17, 2014 19:09:20 GMT 1
A great informative read Dusty. Thanks for sharing the interesting project.
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 19, 2014 21:11:01 GMT 1
Hi Baz, You're welcome mate. Thought it would be good to show what's involved with fitting something a bit different to the norm It is quite a easy conversion (so far), and the parts are still relatively cheap, compared to some, on ebay. Thanks to Leaky, I now have an F2 swingarm, but I needed to remove the original caliper carrier boss as it got in the way of the 4dl caliper carrier. I took the arm to work and got the heavy duty Dewalt saw to chop off the boss and the hose guide bracket. I also trimmed down the 4dl carrier to a more suitable size. I then made a small tab that will get welded onto the arm so I can use a torque arm; With the rose jointed ends, I will have full adjustment for chain wear. I also found some steel plate that I have started to cut up so I can get some strengthening plates welded in. More soon. Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 21, 2014 21:08:33 GMT 1
Had some time in the shed today, so I thought I would get busy with the jigsaw; Was going to get my engineering place to do them but thought I would give it a go. Just need to finish the rounded ends a bit more then they can go in the polishing pile. I'm planning on using the loom that was on the Tzr, which was minimal, but everything worked. There was no ignition switch, just a toggle switch that did the same job. I needed to make a repair plate for the side of the frame, so I cut one out of the steel sheet I have, and made it bigger for the switch; Also made some extra bracing plates; Still waiting on the seat unit before I know what I need to make to get it to fit. Once I have, It'll be off for welding. Dusty
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Post by bazzer5115 on Apr 21, 2014 22:42:35 GMT 1
I think I sold you the seat unit,I posted it Thursday but because of Easter you may get it tomorrow.I owe you £7 postage on it when I work out how to do it. Cheers Baz
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 22, 2014 7:14:21 GMT 1
Hi Baz, It was your seat, and no worries, Easter has slowed down delivery I expect. Cant wait to get it Dusty
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Post by 1966baz on Apr 22, 2014 9:01:55 GMT 1
This project really is giving me ideas for next Winter Dusty, as I have quite a lot of F2 parts- just need a frame. Keep up the good work mate.
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Post by bazzer5115 on Apr 22, 2014 9:24:12 GMT 1
Funny enough now I have finished my ypvs/rgv hybrid I am collecting parts for my next project,that is also going to be a modern cafe racer style(the silver bike at the start of this thread has inspired me--I think it looks stunning) I have frame,engine(421cc being built)and a load of other bits,but looking for RGV running gear.But the prices have gone STUPID. This will be slowish build as I tend to spend the summers riding bikes and the winters locked in my garage building projects!!!
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