Where do i start on rebuild??

I see so there no laid out sequence then..i really dont have a clue which way to do it..what about loom to i lay that out in the early stages?

so dont put loom in until after engine then..and by rolling chassis do you mean just wheels or hook up suspension as well..i can see me asking a question everytime a fit a nut or bolt when the time comes..just dont want to get it wrong.

Sounds so easy..lol..if i get a couple of those foam air filters can i do away with the air box as i think foam ones look better plus gives a lot more room.

I usually do it like this:

1st step: Install the headstock bearings, particularly the bottom one, as that one is a bit fiddly to install when the frame is standing upright.

2: Make sure the frame is standing upright so that the wheels (if they were mounted) would not touch the ground. Stand the frame on a steady box or whatever. Some people strap the frame to the box, that's a good idea so it doesn't tip over as easily.

3: Install inner muddy as Gary says.

4: Install yokes (this is when you want the headstock bearings in place) and slide the forks in. Don't forget to put the headlight brackets on. Now you can insert the front wheel axle and let the bike stand on the forks.

5: Now is a good time to install the main loom.

6: Install rear shock onto the swinger, and then slide the swinger and shock in, (not sure what bike you have, on a 125 you have to get the engine in before the swinger as the swinger bolt goes through the engine, you may want to have the loom in the frame before the engine, although I don't believe it makes a big difference) you may want to have a helping hand that holds the front of the shock up so it doesn't scratch the frame.

7: Install rear wheel.

8: Install all other bits and pieces and you're done!


EDIT: I based this little guide from 350 LC though. You had a 350 YPVS right? If that is the case, you want to have a closer look at the airbox aswell before fitting the engine.
I know these airboxes are a tight fit on the LC's and if you install the airbpx after the engine, you need to get the inlet rubbers and reeds off.
But the YPVS bikes doesn't have the same airbox. I have never buggered around with a YPVS bike so I don't know, but it wouldn't surprise me if they also may have an airbox that are sitting very tight in the frame?

Cheers for that..very helpfull..i still got heaps to do before i can start though..main thing is cleaning and polising everything..especially the forks..may put rear mudguard on tomorrow at least i can say ive started then..being an LC2 does engine have to go in before swinging arm or after?
Just going back to Billys last post about the 125.
Also do you mean its easier to do bottom headstock bearing with frame not standing upright?

Yes i will be fitting taper bearings..do you mean fit them to the yolk or frame first..not even sure how they go on..does anyone have a picture..think its going to be rebuilt by pictures by you guys as im not too sure what goes where.

Do you need any special tools or anything to fit the taper bearings..i was told you may have to modify things to fit them..is this correct?

I just knocked mine in with a drive (is that the correct word? Anyway, see picture below) and a hammer. Somewhat tricky but it worked fine on my LC.

www.biltema.se/ProductImages/19/large/19-1249_l.jpg

If someone knows a better alternative, please share it!

EDIT: If you file two grooves inside our headstock, you can reach the backside of the bearing race and tap it out easily again. Tapered bearings can be a PITA to get out of the headstock otherwise. Some people end up welding a flat bar across the outer bearing race and knock it out from behind, this will obviously ruin the bearing race and tapered bearings are pretty expensive.